Printable View
I've been thinking about getting a double edge for those occasions when...Well, when I feel like slacking off from being so damn straight all the time. Can anyone tell me what the 'combed' variety is used for compared to the non-combed variety? I assume also, that a short handle is a wiser choice than a longer handle for better manuverability. Other (wiser) opinions thoughts on that? Thanks for your help.
Mick
I have a Gillette Super Slim adjustable, which I use with Super Iridium blades. I like it a lot and use it sometimes just because it's fun. I got it after reading the "first shave" wiki. It said to shave my cheek, then finish with my usual method of shaving. Well I didn't want to go back to disposables, so I though I'd get a DE since I used them for about 20 years.
It's like straights...next thing you know...you have a collection! So I have another adjustable, then a flare handle super-speed, then a Merkur Progress…I've tried various blades...
Is there any relief from SGAD (Shave Gear AD?)
Hi Mick,Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
The open comb razors expose more of the blade, so hence they become more aggressive than the closed comb razors. Even further aggressive (IME) are slant razors. They are closed comb, but hold the DE blade such that it is slanted on each side. A little difficult to get used to, but I actually quite like them.
I actually prefer the shorter handled razors, but then again I grip the razor right below the head anyway so I don't need all that extra handle to get in the way.
What exactly are you looking for in a razor?
Modern Aggressive:
Merkur Slant
Muhle R41 open comb
Merkur Open comb
Merkur 34HD
Modern Mild:
EJ89 or Muhle 89 (same head, different handles). IME this is the best modern day DE.
Merkur classic, though not as mild as the EJ89
Vintage Aggressive:
Gillette NEW long tooth comb
Gillette Red Tip
Gillette Fat Boy/Slim (can be as aggressive or mild as you want)
Merkur/Hoffritz Slant
Vintage Mild:
Gillette 40s style superspeed
Gillette Blue Tip
Gillette Flair Tips
Gillette Techs
anyway, there are a ton a razors out there and if you are looking for just something to use every once in a while, I would go with modern: EJ89 or Merkur 34HD; Vintage: Gillette Slim, red-tip or 40s SS
Hope that helps!
Hello Mick,
If I understand you correctly, you're looking for a DE to use just occasionally for a change or when you don't feel like concentrating too hard. Presumably you'd also like a nice piece of kit.
Based on that, and restricted by my very narrow field of expertise, I'd say a 40's Superspeed would fit the bill admirably. They're easy to find, not especially collectable (thus affordable), excellent easy going shavers, and to my mind the best looking razor ever made in a no nonsense designed by an engineer sort of way. For a weightier option, try to find a Rocket, which is nearly identical to a SS, made in England, and ... heavier. Either would be an excellent starter razor.
Of the more sophisticated vintage models, my pick would be the Slim adjustable: again affordable and nicely engineered, and you get to play about with the adjustment mechanism to get the level of aggression you prefer. Mine is stuck on *very aggressive*, which will cause some shaking of heads, but it suits me and I've had a lot of practice. A sensible place to start is no higher than 3.
I'd leave an open comb for a second purchase: they are a little less forgiving apparently, but I've managed to avoid them so far.
As regards handle length, I'm in the short camp, resting the end of the handle on my little finger, but that's entirely a personal decision.
That's the view from the vintage Gillette corner: hope it might be of some help.
The 40s SS is indeed one of my favorite DEs and a great shaver as well. Can usually be picked up in the $10-20 range depending on condition. Of the adjustables, I slightly prefer the Fat boy, but the Slim is a great shaver and can be had for about $20 cheaper than you will pay for a fat boy. I leave my adjustables on 7-9 setting as well as I like aggressive razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowhead
At this point in time with advancements I don't think the open comb type really gives any better shave. The new Muhle type heads also using the Ejs give great shaves. I have the EJ Chatsworth and it outshaves my fatboy and the mercur Future I used to have. I don't know about the new stainless feather or the pils.
I have pretty much stopped using and sold my vintage DEs. The only ones I'm looking at keeping for DEs are the EJ89L, vintage Hoffritz Slant (same design as new Merkur Slants), Cooncatbob's Bull Mastiff w/ Gillette New head, and lastly my best razor - a vintage Darwin DE from the 1920s. The darwins are very rare and can be quite pricey (I lucked out on mine), but IME it is the smoothest shaver of any I've tried. The first stainless steel razor ever made as well.
Bottom line, while collecting vintage Gillettes may be fun, the best razors IME are not them.
All good points, but you get comfortable with what you have. I'm fond of my old Gillette razors, and to be honest, they don't see a great deal of action these days anyway, but they're all fine when they do get dusted off - for me. (The same applies to straights I think, and I wouldn't swap my unassuming Klauberg for a "better" razor with a famous name because we get on so well). With reference to Mick's requirements, the 40s - 60s razors are a cheap and reliable way to dip one's toe in the water, and the history gives them a bit of character. The twist to open mechanism is a big bonus too, in my opinion.
Ok, I've read through all the comments so far and all are very helpful...Far from the simple solutions that I thought it would be though. So what I was thinking of, as far as what I want in a razor:- Modern (easy to get/readily available), adjustable (so I can go from mild to wild at will), weighty (just because!), short handled (seems like a sensible choice)...Would the Merkur HD fall into that catagory? If not which one would?
I just know this is going to get very complicated.
Mick
P.S thanks to the Mod that shifted this to the proper thread. I have no idea why I didn't get it right in the first place.
The double-edge razor to my mind, is a lovely example of a "technology" that peaked and became almost impossible to improve upon. There are any number of DE razors out there, costing around US $7-15 used, that do a great job if the razor is in good shape. You can also get some fabulous Merkur razors for USD 50-100 that are the same identical technology in modern manufacture.
For fun, I picked up this GI WW2 issue Gillette shaver and used it. I think I paid maybe USD 20 for it on eBay. Great shave! This might become my travel kit! The little razor-blade container alone was worth the price.
I'm not so sure about the old technology DE's. The new EJ's definitely give a better shave than the old type or at least they do for me. I know no matter how much I fiddle with my fatboy the result is still a notch below the EJ. I've had 2 mercurs a future and a 39c and I wasn't impressed with either of them to be honest.
I'm puzzled as to why some people feel the 34C/38C are considered aggressive. IME they are a nice, very forgiving DE that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend to a beginner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvitz81
Yes Mick, that was my endorsement for your first DE...:)
If I were in your shoes, I'd get a Merkur 34C either regular or Heavy Duty. They are reasonably priced and readily available for purchase.
I own both a Merkur HD and a Futur and prefer the former over the latter. In fact, I just used my Merkur HD today, as the attached SOTD photo attests, for the very same reason you offered; namely, that there are those times when you may not want to use your straight razor for a shave. Today was one of those days for me.
I guess I wasn't clear. I mean that basically there has not been a new idea in the DE razor since maybe the Gillette adjustable. Later razors might execute better, but the basic idea and most of its refinements remain unchanged. Jaggers and Merkurs might be better razors than 1960's Gillettes, probably are; but they are working on the same ideas, even going back a notch (Merkur Progress not doing the butterfly opening for example).
Has there been an actual technological advance in the DE since 1965 or do they just make 'em tons better, closer tolerances, better metal, etc.?
That's not a challenge, btw, just a real question! If I'm mistaken, I get to learn something and the senior members here are the most likely folk to "learn me" well! :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigspendur
Well, if it's to be a new one, the Jagger seems to get more praise than any other current razor, but if adjustablilty is a must, I think that means a Merkur. The Futur is liked by many and is certainly a heavyweight - by reputation it has aggression aplenty on offer, but I don't recall anyone mentioning mildness.
Not really germane to this thread, but I really want to compliment Lawson on that GI set. A very nice acquisition, sir, and just crying out to take its place in the washbag.
Thanks for all the advice so far, I think I'm going to go for the Merkur HD. It has the sex appeal, insofar as razors can be appealing in that way, that I go for. I would have like to see it in an adjustable format, then I told myself to Keep It Simple Stupid.
Next question: Derby blades or Feathers? Differences if any.
Mick
P.S Lawson I WANT that GI set. Beautiful!
Glad you like it. I actually plan to try it on trips periodically.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
Chalk and cheese, and neither would be my first recommendation. Derbys: variable quality, sometimes within the same pack, which was enough for me to reject them permanently. They have quite a few fans though who report that they are an easy going, not especially sharp blade. Feather: notorious for being very sharp, and not particularly smooth in my personal opinion. I very much enjoy using them once in a while, but continuous use leads to irritation. They are very consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
A few other brands might offer a better experience if you're just starting out, for instance red Personna (cheap, reliable, not overly sharp); Gillette 7 o'clock yellow pack (sharp and reliable), or Iridium Super (similar to the Gillettes). There are a few blade threads on this board if you feel like taking this further. I always say the same thing about blades, and I'm going to do it again: when you find a brand which really suits you, buy a lot.
The basic principle by which DE's work really haven't changed. They have been just tweaked and improved. Some would say the SE's (injectors) and later cartridge razors were a natural improvement in design the same way many would say the DE was the next improvement over a straight.
I wouldn't say that but many would. But, if your looking for a progression in technology here (good or bad) that's probably it.
No different than if your into electric razors you have the rotary and the foil. I had my father's Sunbeam Shavemaster from the 1950s and basically it's the same as a modern foil razor just heavily modified and tweaked.
I've had numerous vintage Gillette's and a Merkur progress. I like them all but the Progress was to aggressive for my skin, so I sold it. I really like the flare tip super speeds and the Gillette adjustable.
Thanks for all the help and good advice. Today I ordered a Merkur 34 HD and also ordered a variety pack of blades to try. Now I just need to find a reliable source of hair growth formula so that I can shave five times a day for a while... :)
Mick
I have tried many of the vintage Gillette's and never could get a good shave without whacking up my face with the open comb models. I have a few I try occasionally between my straight shaving. The ones I like are the long handle black beauty adjustable set on about 5 or 6 and I really like the lady Gillette which has a long handle and light weight. A couple short handle ones are the red tip and the aristocrat which are pretty much identical shavers but the aristocrat is prettier.
bj