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So while my straight is out for honing, I've been using my shavette. I must say, getting much better results now that when I first started with a shavette. A question that I've been having - do you increase or decrease the angle with a shavette vs straight? Logic (for me) would say to decrease because it's VERY sharp. However, I seem to be getting better results (although a few more knicks) when I increase the angle. Thoughts?
Most here will advise to decrease the angle. I have found that when I switch back to my Feather SS (Shavette) from a regular straight that I can maintain the same angle if I reduce the pressure used in shaving. Even very sharp edges require pressure to cut you.
ace.... interesting... I wasn't getting a good shave with the same angle and could only get BBS by reducing angle. But I appreciate the input.
Major,
I keep my angle low with the Feather AC DX, about 20 degrees, about the same as that used for my traditional straight razor. A higher angle on both irritates my skin. For me, a comfortable shave is more important than a perfect shave.
Obie.. thanks for the input. I'll need to play with this. I keep a 20-30 or so degree angle with my straight, but was wanting to go larger with the shavette - which knicked as you can imagine. I was getting toward 90 degrees around the nose/mouth.
Major,
Around the nose and the mouth, the angle has to increase, of course, but by using a a scooping motion, you will reduce the angle by the time you get to the lip. Around the chin and the mouth, you have to use various angles, many steep, but at first opportunity, lower them.
Similar observation; EXCEPT that with a new blade in my Feather AC, when I put the Feather SS onto my skin for the from the ear forward pass, I need to be very careful how I put the razor onto my skin and use a shallower angle than on my straights for the initial contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by ace
In a nutshell, my rule for the Feather SS is to use a shallower angle when first contacting the skin and afterwards shave pretty much with the same angle than on my straight.
Reduced pressure is essential however.
After a while it becomes second nature.
This applies to Feather AC razors; I can't comment on other, lightweight shavettes with DE blades.
beluga - I've been doing something similar. I was finding that most cuts came from "bumping" the shavette into my face when putting it down to do a pass. I also started dropping the angle to avoid the full edge bumping into the skin.
+1. I also find I use the same angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by ace
I use a very high angle with my shavette. When I started: it was much easier with a flatter angle but as I got better at it I got better shaves higher and higher. I'm around 45deg w/ the SR1 and a sharp DE blade.
On my straight: it's far flatter. Maybe 20-30deg.
I used a high angle with my Parker when first starting out. Now I use a shallow angle and light pressure. Like you the only time I get nicks now is if I bump. A 3 pass shave gets me BBS with no issues.
A lot will depend on the Shavette and the actual width of the blade in use. I believe there are differing blade widths from the manufacturers. The blade exposure is different on razors by different manufacturers. and the edge of the blade holder is wider or narrower on each side of the blade in the holder, requiring a different angle between the razors also. I have a few shavettes and use Feather Proline Gaurd blades, or half good stiff DE blades. They work best for my face and each of the shavettes requires a slightly different angle to give me a close, non burning, shave. The razors are CJB, Sanguine folding or equivalent heavy half blade, Feather Artists club Kamisori, Feather Artist's Club RG folding, Sam Seong kamisori. Those are in addition to the two real Kamisori I own. The angle of shave differs between them all. Blade length does a lot to require differing pressure also, short blade a lot less to save epidermous.
I agree that light pressure and a slightly higher angle seem to work the best for my skin and facial shape.
And all bets are off when comparing to regular straights, but then, they always have been!
Have fun!
~Richard
Agree with the above, great evaluation of the topic. The only thing that I can add is that I found is that until your comfortable with your skills, the Feather ProGuard is an ideal blade to start with.