Razor stops where beard growth is thick

My Dovo hollow ground has no problems with my sides of my face first pass. My razor seems to not like a thick beard on my chin. I motor through carefully. Third pass against the grain on my chin I have the same difficulty. Help?:hmmm:

My first suspicion would be to check the basics: a shave ready razor, excellent beard prep, razor angle, and face mapping. Would you be wiling to post about your beard prep in particular and your whole routine in general?

My beard prep. I start by wetting my face then massaging in a small amount of shampoo. Followed by a 40 second cold towel application. If my beard is softened I wipe off the shampoo and lather up.

If all the basics are well handled try some of the more advanced strokes. Such as scything or guillotine stroke. Be careful learning those, to much pressure and you will bleed.

Jonathan

I shower and shave afterwards in hot steamy bathroom. My razor I strop 15 linnen and 25 or so leather. I use mistic waters shave soap.

I would do more stropping on the leather to ensure a smoother edge. I had similar issues with my chin as I have a coarse beard. Make sure the blade is sharp and smooth. Watch the angle and take your time. The only difference is I use a wedge and not a hollow ground blade. But in either case it should be able to do the job.

Before shaving I strop 60 on leather, then 10 after shaving. Some guys use a lot more or less depending on the strop they are using.

Jonathan

why strop after?

to ensure blade is thoroughly dry to prevent rust

Never thought of that. I rub some mineral oil on it after towel drying.

Non water displacing oils can trap microscopic amounts of water that can than rust the razor. I live in a dry climate and don't oil my small rotation after shaving. Just occasionally use silicone spray lubricant.

Jonathan

Chet

I think having trouble going ATG on the chin is pretty common at least it is for me. That seems to be the thickest and densest part of the facial hair. I have to go slow and do small strips with the razor near flat to the face. The sharper and smoother the blade with a very good lather makes it easier.

Bob

What oil would u recommend for rust prevention

The most common one I see around the forum is mineral oil after towel drying and letting the razor sit for a couple of hours to completely air dry. Beyond that, people use all sorts of things such as gun oil, wd-40, etc. etc.

camelia / tsubaki oil is what I use Not the cheapest but I have to oil my carbon kitchen knives as well

Chris

I got a new Thiers Issard and in the directions they recommended Vaseline. I am not sure if I would try it but seems like it would work.

I just use baby oil

Besides the excellent advice so far (make sure the razor is shave-ready, stropped, and use a flatter angle) I'd also suggest, as you become more confident, trying a "buffing" kind of stroke in the thicker areas. Very short strokes in a back and forth motion - I've found it can sometimes be a safer way to get through a tougher area than trying a solid stroke and having it hang up (and cut!) half way through. Also remember to do whatever you can to stretch the area very well.

Good luck.

James.

Sounds like you need a big heavy wedge! Sorry, just partial to them.

I suggest working on your prep. I have a very difficult beard. If I do the minimum prep (wash face, splash warm water, lather), I can shave with a disposable blade razor but not a straight. I have to use castile soap, wash 2 or three times, warm water splash and a pre-shave (I use Proraso). Of course, a good lather is required. Everyones beard is unique. You may need to try different things to make sure the beard absorbs some water. The natural oils that cover the beard may not be removed fully by the soap you are using or many soaps leave oils and fats of their own on the beard the repel moisture. The hot towel prep is using high heat and moisture to soften the beard. If your beard feels like sandpaper, a straight won't cut it.