Shaving geometry

As all this shaving stuff settles in, there are the "most important" things to remember. Each day brings it's own "most important" thing, usually built on a foundation of failing to remember it. One of my current ones is the importance of cutting angle, that is the angle of the blade to the hairs themselves. This gets integrated best with a careful understanding and response to the wandering grain on different parts of the face. None of this is news to anyone trafficing this forum, but it is one voice in the din of information overload we apprentices are trying to integrate.

I tend to understand things best with a picture. So for any other visual learners, I turned my mental picture of the shaving geometry into the crude illustrations attached. Together with the advise and opinions of many on shaving angles, grain direction and multi-passes, this makes it make more sense to me and helps me fine tune what I do on my own face, adopting whatever angle gives the best angle of hair to blade, changing as I stroke.

The most dramatic angle benefits and challenges come against the grain. I don't think the illustrated angles overstate the case of blade-to-hair against the grain (especially in places like the neck where hair "lays down" more). An ordinary 30' angle can put the blade almost parallel to the hair with no chance of cutting anything except the skin. On the other hand, a blade flat against the skin can lift and cut the inclined hairs.

Hope this helps some others and/or prompts some helpful discussion. As always, YMMV.

- Dale

One of the reasons a straight gives such a great shave is that as you shave you are constantly adjusting the angle to give the best possible result. With a DE you are pretty much stuck with a pre set angle even if its an adjustable one. As you gain more experience it becomes automatic.

We recommend a 30 degree angle the same that we recommend a pyramid rountine to beginners because thats a good starting point in honing and the same with shaving. No one retains the exact same angle throughout the shave. First thats impossible and second you would not get a good shave. You would be like the guy using a DE with a fixed angle. The 30 degree angle is proper for much of the shave routine but you just have to experiment with adjustments to see what works best for you. If you find going against the grain on your neck requires more or less of an angle then thats what you need to do. Nothing in straight shaving is set in stone.

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

One of the reasons a straight gives such a great shave is that as you shave you are constantly adjusting the angle to give the best possible result. With a DE you are pretty much stuck with a pre set angle even if its an adjustable one. As you gain more experience it becomes automatic.

...No one retains the exact same angle throughout the shave. First thats impossible and second you would not get a good shave. You would be like the guy using a DE with a fixed angle. The 30 degree angle is proper for much of the shave routine but you just have to experiment with adjustments to see what works best for you. If you find going against the grain on your neck requires more or less of an angle then thats what you need to do. Nothing in straight shaving is set in stone.

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Well put! This is one of those things that is obvious to you guys who have done this for years that I have to hear about, experience it, hear it again, experience it better, hear it again, ...and finally get it. As I get a confident feel for the mechanics, it all becomes less mechanical.

Well put Bigspender. I think that was well thought out and right on the mark.:hmmm:

When I consider "cutting angle," I'm usually thinking in terms of the drawings below. I posted about this once before, calling it a guillotine type angle. I think this is also important, in addition to angling the blade away from the skin.

I've found that the angles below, when incorporated into your shaving technique, really help in providing a smooth, comfortable shave.


Scott




Attachment 2036 Downward stroke (used on cheek for instance)


Attachment 2037 Across stroke (across chin or upper lip)


Attachment 2038 Upward stroke (lower neck)

Both Cutting Angle (Scott's diagrams) and Shaving Angle (Dale's diagrams) are important elements of good shaving technique.

X

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Originally Posted by honedright

...a guillotine type angle. I think this is also important, in addition to angling the blade away from the skin.

I've found that the angles below, when incorporated into your shaving technique, really help in providing a smooth, comfortable shave.

Scott

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Indeed...kind of like a skew angle on a chisel or plane...or the way you angle a kitchen knife (now I'm in foreign territory...the kitchen!). And this too gets adjusted as you go like thebigspender said.

Great stuff...part of what I love about this madness...getting better with time, experience, and an occassional failure thrown in for humility and re-inforcement. It's worth it, eh?!
:tu

If was just a matter of picking up a straight and shaving with it like a DE
it wouldn't be the art that it is and poor lynn wouldn't have a site we would all be over at B&B arguing the fine points about DEs. Its all those little things that you just have to learn on your own through trial and error no matter how well intentioned the advice that makes this more of a fraternity. Maybe we should have a secret handshake or saying or some secret code eh? Lynn could be the Grand Kahuna and we could have deputy kahuna's and we can all wear a fez.

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Maybe we should have a secret handshake or saying or some secret code eh? Lynn could be the Grand Kahuna and we could have deputy kahuna's and we can all wear a fez.

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And a pledge to get good shaves and help people get theirs and stuff. I am so down with that! :D

X

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

If was just a matter of picking up a straight and shaving with it like a DE
it wouldn't be the art that it is and poor lynn wouldn't have a site we would all be over at B&B arguing the fine points about DEs. Its all those little things that you just have to learn on your own through trial and error no matter how well intentioned the advice that makes this more of a fraternity. Maybe we should have a secret handshake or saying or some secret code eh? Lynn could be the Grand Kahuna and we could have deputy kahuna's and we can all wear a fez.

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YES!!! A fez! That's exactly what we need. But not a plain red one like what the Shriners have. What we need is a... plaid fez. Metallic plaid. Let's see; purple, orange and green. And kilts! Yes, kilts! But instead of plaid they would be dark brown with flourescent blue polka dots. Bagpipes! Ceremonial daggers! Chihuahuas as mascots! Then we'd really stand out in a crowd! :roflmao :roflmao :roflmao

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

If was just a matter of picking up a straight and shaving with it like a DE
it wouldn't be the art that it is and poor lynn wouldn't have a site we would all be over at B&B arguing the fine points about DEs. Its all those little things that you just have to learn on your own through trial and error no matter how well intentioned the advice that makes this more of a fraternity. Maybe we should have a secret handshake or saying or some secret code eh? Lynn could be the Grand Kahuna and we could have deputy kahuna's and we can all wear a fez.

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And our fraternal "song" is the sweet sounds the razor itself sings.

And my wife thought I was strange- :roflmao

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Originally Posted by Agamemnon

YES!!! A fez! That's exactly what we need. But not a plain red one like what the Shriners have. What we need is a... plaid fez. Metallic plaid. Let's see; purple, orange and green. And kilts! Yes, kilts! But instead of plaid they would be dark brown with flourescent blue polka dots. Bagpipes! Ceremonial daggers! Chihuahuas as mascots! Then we'd really stand out in a crowd! :roflmao :roflmao :roflmao

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Consider matching the kilts with Hawaiin shirts - with pineapples. After all, the title is Grand Kahuna... I'm here for the pig roast...