Angle Under the Nose and Around the Mustache Area?

Hi, I'm just a week into actual straight razor shaving, but I am loving it. I know that the angle of the razor needs to be fairly closed, and I shouldn't let the blade "open up" too much. Under the nose (I means right up near the nostrils and whatever that middle part is called) I don't seem to have the room to keep the same closer to vertical angle. Today I tried to flatten the angle a bit and got a nick for my troubles.

Should I just try to use the tip of the razor more for these tight areas? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

The groove below the nose is called a philtrum.

I do a scooping motion to get the area right under the nose. The are where the philtrum meets the nose is the most feequent spot wher I nick myself.


The following video shows the scooping motion @ 1:28.
I pull the tip of my nose up to stretch the skin with my non-razor hand while doing this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrP2T8phbwM&t=93s

I do both. I do the scooping motion and the angle does get a bit more open for me here. I also just use the tip of the razor and do a XTG stroke in this area.

Whatever it takes. :)

Search fools pass also
I would call it a scooping action also for a downwards WTG pass then XTG finished with the ATG (aka: fools pass)

The old French barbers traditionally referred to it as the "coup de maitre" (the master's feat), better translated as the "crowning touch".
I usually go with a scooping motion with the heel, followed with an ATG using the tip of the blade.

Yes, a 3-pass process for me as well. I have some hairs that grow just below the nose, an ATG using the heel and XTG with the tip get it.

This is where a Square point blade pays dividends and a keen heel as well.

I do a clean-up, water pass with my bride’s, lighted magnified mirror, using the heel mostly, with a two-hand grip for maximum control.

You just have to figure out what works for you. Try two handed Again the Grain with light pressure.

Thank you, the YouTube video was very helpful, especially with the close-ups. When you say "scooping motion" do you mean that instead of going straight down there is a slight outward flick of the wrist?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Horsehide

The old French barbers traditionally referred to it as the "coup de maitre" (the master's feat), better translated as the "crowning touch".
I usually go with a scooping motion with the heel, followed with an ATG using the tip of the blade.

---

When you say "scooping motion" do you mean that rather than going straight down with the motion that there should be a slight outward motion to the wrist to follow the curve of the lip?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, a 3-pass process for me as well. I have some hairs that grow just below the nose, an ATG using the heel and XTG with the tip get it.

This is where a Square point blade pays dividends and a keen heel as well.

I do a clean-up, water pass with my bride’s, lighted magnified mirror, using the heel mostly, with a two-hand grip for maximum control.

You just have to figure out what works for you. Try two handed Again the Grain with light pressure.

---

Thanks for the suggestions. Is ATG also what is referred to as the Fool's Pass?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

Thank you, the YouTube video was very helpful, especially with the close-ups. When you say "scooping motion" do you mean that instead of going straight down there is a slight outward flick of the wrist?

---

I think of the scoop as a continuous change of blade angle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings

I think of the scoop as a continuous change of blade angle.

---

So, the blade would start slightly more vertically with the blade up against the philtrum and then open up the angle as it proceeds down towards the lip? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to visualize the movement. Thanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

So, the blade would start slightly more vertically with the blade up against the philtrum and then open up the angle as it proceeds down towards the lip? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to visualize the movement. Thanks.

---

The way I do it is to use a With The Grain pass from north to south. The blade edge approaches the top of the philtrum almost straight on with a slight downward cant of the blade. The blade follows the curvature of the face as the pass continues south, making a semi-circle.

The link to the video on my first post didn't work when I went to view it just now. I went back and re-linked the video.

So, that the blade is touching the nose and the edge is on the lip just under the nose, the blade or spine, continues to touch the nose, as the edge moves down the upper lip, and you have the shallowest angle through the stroke.

In other words, do not keep the same starting angle. Keep the spine or blade touching the nose

Kind of like, making a scooping motion, but really the edge says on the skin and the spine end, is as close to the skin, as the nose will allow, through the downward stroke..

Use light pressure so as not to dig into the skin. That will get the bulk of the moustache, but against the grain, cleans it up and across the grain, the toe gets any touch up needed.

When I do the scooping motion, the wrist and forearm are almost motionless along the vertical axis. It is 95 percent a rotational motion. This may help describe it for the new guys.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So, that the blade is touching the nose and the edge is on the lip just under the nose, the blade or spine, continues to touch the nose, as the edge moves down the upper lip, and you have the shallowest angle through the stroke.

In other words, do not keep the same starting angle. Keep the spine or blade touching the nose

Kind of like, making a scooping motion, but really the edge says on the skin and the spine end, is as close to the skin, as the nose will allow, through the downward stroke..

Use light pressure so as not to dig into the skin. That will get the bulk of the moustache, but against the grain, cleans it up and across the grain, the toe gets any touch up needed.

---

Thank you. Your description really helps me to visualize the process.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

When you say "scooping motion" do you mean that rather than going straight down with the motion that there should be a slight outward motion to the wrist to follow the curve of the lip?

---

That is correct. It works for me. but as all things involving a straight, avoid any side-to-side "sawing motion.:nono:

Thanks everyone for all you wonderful suggestions. Today's shave went better on the North to South WTG motion. I did get a nice little cut when I tried to go XTG from the center to the outside of the nostril. In fairness I think there was more blood because I reopened where I nicked myself yesterday. Oh well, maybe tomorrow will be better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

Hi, I'm just a week into actual straight razor shaving, but I am loving it. I know that the angle of the razor needs to be fairly closed, and I shouldn't let the blade "open up" too much. Under the nose (I means right up near the nostrils and whatever that middle part is called) I don't seem to have the room to keep the same closer to vertical angle. Today I tried to flatten the angle a bit and got a nick for my troubles.

Should I just try to use the tip of the razor more for these tight areas? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

---

That is the columella. Reason being I know this my daughter has needed surgery to this area.

Try the "Fools Pass" method for shaving the upper lip area as I call it. It is a method that quite honestly people frown upon at times and think it is not safe but it is just as safe as anything else you would do in straight shaving.

Simply hold the razor steady and still and you move your face down to shave. It is a simple method taught to me by some long time shavers and I use it every shave. Why? Because it works. I still shave down and while you cannot get the spine to two times the width going that direction it does get some stubble while the "Fools Pass" is like a clean up pitcher that comes in to retire the side!:rofl2:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Horsehide

but as all things involving a straight, avoid any side-to-side "sawing motion.:nono:

---

Unless you want to solve your dilemma permanently by removing your upper lip from your face. :tameshigiri:

This is why I like a square-tip razor. I sometimes do a combination of the above mentioned techniques, but, to avoid opening up the angle of my blade when shaving those hairs tucked right under the septum of my nose, I'll pop them individually with the very tip of the toe of my razor while pulling my nose to one side. I've found that incorporating this into my WTG/XTG pass works well.

I'm just learning how to achieve the same technique with a barber's notch...