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OK I have to get something off my chest. Every time I see someone shaving on YouTube I notice the wide angle of the blade against the skin. The blade is closer to perpendicular to the skin than parallel with it. Let's call it a >45* angle.
When I shave my blade rarely breaks 45*, if ever. Frankly I'm usually less than 30*.
Am I doing this wrong? If so it has been yielding good results for 10 years or so...
I don't think you're doing anything wrong. In fact, I've noticed the same and had the same doubt for a while. IMHO the best shaving angle should be the one that gives you the smoothest shave with less passes, and that happens the more closer the blade to the skin is, in my personal experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
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No, I don't think you are doing anything wrong. I generally have about 1 or 2 spine widths gap between skin and razor's spine.
Bob
Don't worry about it. With 10 years of good shaves under your belt, I'll bet you've been at it longer than some of those guys in the shaving videos.
I watched a Youtube video of a "pro" honer dragging a straight across his face with the blade nearly perpendicular to his face. A lot of expert advice videos are made by amateurs.
I forgot to comment that, when going against the grain, the video you watched is even more untrue, at least in my personal experience, as going against the grain almost perpendicular to the skin seems suicidal to me. In that case y rest the whole blade against my skin, making sure first there is enough soap lather between the skin and the blade so that it runs smoothly. That's why I consider James Bond's movie scene in which the girl shaves his jaw against the grain with the blade perpendicular to the skin, faker than it's already supposed to be for being just a scene in a movie.Quote:
Originally Posted by yaguarete79
So you are saying this is the wrong angle? :D
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Thats my opinion too. Shave on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz
IMHO that's the wrong angle. I've watched videos in which they analyze the razor's edge under a microscope and if you think about it, in a magnified or zoomed scenario it would be similar to a mowlawner: the more vertical the blade, the less it will be able to cut. Besides, a perpendicular blade in your skin is risky as hell. A wrong move and you'll be needing stitches. In fact any shaving implies risks, but the sole image of a perpendicular blade gives me the creeps. But I'm not claiming to be an authority myself on this. I've been straight shaving for 1 year and a half now, so I still have a lot to learn. But in my experience I keep the things that work for me. That doesn't mean it wouldn't work for other people. :)
Somewhere on the forum is a thread that contains some diagrams of proper blade angles when using a straight razor. I do not remember the exact angles, but is is something like 30 degrees on the 1st pass WTG, 20 degrees on the 2nd pass XTG, and then about 10 degrees on the 3rd pass ATG. Thus, the thought is that as the beard is progressively reduced, you lessen the blade angle.
Since every beard differs in length and coarseness and every face differs in shape and sensitivity, each shaver use whatever angles work for them. The angle might also differ slightly with the angle of the bevel of the razor you are using. If you are getting a close, comfortable shave, your technique is right for you, no matter what anyone else does, writes or shows in a video.
I totally agree to that. In the end of the day, what's important is you get the closest shave for you without nicks or cuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by RayClem
OK I feel a little vindicated then lol.
I remember the first few months of straight shaving and I was using a shavette. At some point I tried using a perpendicular approach. Not sure if I saw it in a movie or what. I remember terrible razor burn being the result.
It was then that I decided to start with the razor parallel to the skin and widen the angle only enough to shave. Seemed much more forgiving of my technique mistakes.
Yes sir, when you start opening the angle up at some point you go from cutting to scraping and a lot of irritation follows. Same holds true for DE/SE razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
Bob
Could not agree more. My face doesn't like anything greater than 30 degrees, and it isn't shy about lighting me up to let me know as much.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
Of course in that same thread RayClem mentioned, I think it was Kelbro said he'd been using 45 degrees for years. Guess it all depends on what you & your face like.
Me & mine like closer to 20 degrees/1 spine width away. YMMV.
Actually, I think it has more to do with angle of approach of the hairs being at different angles rather than the progressive reduction.Quote:
Originally Posted by RayClem
If you've been shaving 10 years with good results, you're doing it right!
I keep my razor angled about 2 spine widths for the first pass and 1 spine width for the second. On the rare occasion that I do a third pass, the spine is almost touching my face. The only spot that I use a somewhat higher angle is under my nose, simply because the nose is in the way.
If you want to see good technique watch Lynn or GeoFatBoy. One to two spine widths will give you a comfortable close shave. Advice, don't watch shows on television showing straight razor shaving.
This is something as a new guy I've really bean working on, not letting the blade angle open up too wide. I really have trouble with the area right under my nostrils, I have nicked myself right under the left nostril a number of times. Anyone have any suggestions?Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
Thanks.
Yup, grow a mustache like I have. ;) I am sure someone will be along with some good suggestions soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by MajesticShaver
Bob
The only thing I have found to work well for under the nose (upper lip, in general):Quote:
Originally Posted by MajesticShaver
1. keen edge. If your blade is not well honed you will feel it here.
2. stretch the skin. One way is to draw the upper lip down so that the skin is tight against the upper teeth. This will help expose some of those hard to reach areas.
3. for under the nose, a slight curved motion can help but you will still get the steep angle.
4. go across the grain (XTG). Often times I don't bother going strictly 'with the grain' on my upper lip. I use one hand to stretch my upper lip to the side by placing my fingers on my cheek approximately where the corner of my mouth is and applying pressure on my cheek downwards while also opening my mouth. I end up with my fingers kind of pushing on my lower jaw. I then shave across starting from the corner of my mouth up towards the center of my upper lip. This allows me to avoid the bad angle of a WTG approach. I then reverse and do the same thing from the other side of my face.
But I could be preaching false doctrine. If what I just said is heresy, someone please correct.
Hope that helps.
The way a lot of the old instructions word it is to keep the blade "virtually flat". Much easier than thinking how high or how many spine widths IMHO.
You will know when you are too flat when the blade sticks to your face. ;) Don't ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
Bob
This is totally true. When you get too flat it almost feels like a suction onto your face. Not sure how to explain it better than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
Yup, suction just about describes it.Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
Bob
Hollows won't stick as much as wedges but a slicker lather will reduce the sticking.
If you are getting great shaves, your angle is just right! One great thing about mastering straight shaving is that it is all learned behavior. When I started I concentrated on blade angle and other things, and often got cut because I distracted myself. Right now I think I use a 30 degree angle, but really couldn't tell you for sure. I just do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
I also have a question. I try to set the angle between 1 and 2 spine thickness. How about wide blade. For example 8/8, would the spine thicness apply? It seem to me the gap at 30 degree will be less with a 5/8 and wider with a 8/8?
No I'd say not, but you know every razor has it's own characteristics to the angle, at least I find this to be true with my shaving. Keep up the good work !Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
How can you do a coup de maitre without going perpendicular to start?Quote:
Originally Posted by yaguarete79
If you have been getting great shaves, with less angle this is good, there's an old saying "if it works don't - - - k with it !Quote:
Originally Posted by apamburn
Almost every movie I have seen the actor is at a 45 degree angle and I have a chuckle. You can tell they are clean shaven and the blade is dead, no way they would be able to scrape hair off that way. I keep the blade low, not sure how low because I know the feel now but would say 2 to 1.5 spine widths. I enjoy a scithing motion on most of my cuts, just feels better and closer.
