Question about a close shave

Hey everyone,
I have been shaving with a straight razor for about a year now and something has been bothering me.

When I shave with a "store razor" (big name brand) I tend to get a very close shave.
Maaaaybe it is because I go over the same areas several times in different directions.

When I use a straight razor - I seem to have places where I have "stubble" is the only word I can come up with.

What am I doing wrong?

Maybe not going in the right direction?
Maybe being scared of killing myself with this sharp blade in those areas?
Maybe my razor is not stropped right?

I have no clue.

Anyone else have this happen and figured it out?

Thanks,

Jamie

I have some days when i dont get as smooth a shave as id like. But the main thing to learn is to get a comfortable shave. When you can shave and have no discomfort and the skin feels good then dont worry about that little spot you might not have made baby butt smooth. Can you see the stubble left? If no then Dont worry about it and be happy you got a comfortable shave. After a couple years of shaving with a pro honed razors you will find that one day your getting the perfect shave, but this takes time, effort in learning the directions to shave on each part of your face and the razor needs to be right.

It is a learned skill with many variables.
Incorrect stropping can degrade your edge in a few swipes. A good soap and prep do make a difference, as does skin stretching and pulling weird faces at the mirror to flatten out those hard to get to places. Don't expect instant results.
No shame in finishing with a cart, but those multi blades give me mad irritation.
You could send your razor out for a refresh to one of the honemeisters here, then you would have a reference to what shave ready really means.
Don't be scared of the blade, respect the blade...

Assuming equipment is in good, correct condition, your answer is: patienice, practice, observation, correction, pressure, angle, stretching, lather, etc., etc. I’m 2.5 years in and still learning.

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Originally Posted by Longhaultanker

Assuming equipment is in good, correct condition, your answer is: patienice, practice, observation, correction, pressure, angle, stretching, lather, etc., etc. I’m 2.5 years in and still learning.

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This is the best part about shaving with a SR. You can always learn more and get better. One way to not get 'bored'. ��

My shaves were hit and miss for the first while. I soon learned that pushing for that BBS smooth shave risks irritation. I started using a straight seeking a comfortable and close shave. Perfection is not a requirement for me. That being said it got consistently better for about two years, I still get aha moments but they are not very frequent. For me the key was to study the direction of growth of my beard and then experiment a little with the order of shave direction in an attempt to get a clean and comfortable shave in fewer passes. With that is wet lather, a sharp edge, low angle, no pressure and good skin stretching and holding. There are areas on my face, that after a shave I can feel that the shave is not perfect. There are only two people including myself that touch my face. No one else can tell my shave is not 100% smooth, and I am ok with that.

If it is always the same spots that have stubble, then you may want to let it grow for a day or two so that you can see if there is a grain direction change at those spots. Analyze the situation and see if you are just coming at the hairs from the wrong direction.

If it is random places every time then it is technique. I was still spotty with my technique after a year and probably around a year and half before I could consistently get a BBS every day.

Jamie

I suspect the answer to your question is in your original post. When you shave with a store razor you shave multiple passes in multiple directions. You need to do something similar with a straight razor. You can map the grain of your beard and then try to shave three passes: first with the grain, then across the grain, and finally against the grain. However, you can achieve similar results by shaving north to south, east to west and finally south to north. On the more difficult areas (typically the chin and jawline), you might even need a 4th cleanup pass, perhaps west to east. In some areas, you might need to use a very short, repeated buffing action.

Have you learned how to shave equally well with both hands? Personally, I shave north to south with the hand corresponding to that side of my face, but I find that when shaving in other directions, it is easier to shave with the opposite hand. Doing this requires learning multiple ways to securely grip the razor. .

Also remember that one of the advantages of a modern cartridge razor is that it pivots automatically to keep the blade at the proper angle for shaving. With a straight razor, you have to adjust the shaving angle manually.

I’m not saying everyone is wrong just pointing out that everyone gave advice without getting the full story.
And I quote “ when I shave with a store razor (Big name brand) I tend to get a very close shave. Maaaaybe it’s because I go over the same areas several times in different directions.”
Well this may be the case especially if you’re only doing a single pass one direction with your straight something you didn’t mention that being said it should go something like this with, across, against the grain or you could try just against single pass so that you don’t get irritation like others mentioned you want to be comfortable with doing multiple passes so you don’t get irritation

Just think. Multiple passes with a plastic razor that has 3 to 7 blades in it. Now, how many passes does that add up to compared to using a straight? Bunches!

I shave almost every day, been at it for 30+ years. Still don't get a BBS shave every time, but very close and comfortable all the time.

Shave on brother..!!

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Originally Posted by RezDog

My shaves were hit and miss for the first while. I soon learned that pushing for that BBS smooth shave risks irritation.

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This, but switch risk for ensures! I have gotten the best results when I was test shaving with a blade or not worrying as much about being perfect and just experimenting.
After having been shaving for a while a realized I was still using too much pressure and I'm still learning how to keep the blade at the right angle over the curves of my face/neck.

BBS is a relative concept.

I can shave with an electric razor and get a complete BBS shave yet 4 hours later I can feel stubble all over my face and after 8 hours I need another shave.

With a straight I will have a bit of stubble here and there but sometimes that stubble disappears an hour later. In any case I don't need to shave for a day and a half later.

So, the moral of the story is you just shave and you know you are getting a great shave. If you chase the BBS you are just courting irritation.

Of course YMMV and some folks shave easy.

A quote to live by....
Shave the lather, not your face.

That's all the pressure you need

I don't see any mention of honing in your post. I would not be able to shave on a blade for a year with stropping only. It could certainly be that your razor needs a tune up at least. I have found that my best shaves are when I shave after a shower, and proceed with a WTG, ATG/XTG, followed up with another WTG. My chin area is the most challenging, which I've learned to incorporate short blade buffing strokes in different directions to get extremely close. You just need to experiment with different techniques to see what works for YOU, but if you persist, you will figure out what it takes. Shaving is a very individual experience.

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Originally Posted by jamiedaniel

Hey everyone,
I have been shaving with a straight razor for about a year now and something has been bothering me.

When I shave with a "store razor" (big name brand) I tend to get a very close shave.

When I use a straight razor - I seem to have places where I have "stubble" is the only word

What am I doing wrong?

Maybe not going in the right direction?
Maybe being scared of killing myself with this sharp blade in those areas?
Maybe my razor is not stropped right?

I have no clue.

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For a perfect straight shave everything has to fall into place: honing, stropping, and shaving - which admittedly can be a challenge in the beginning.

The way you describe it, I venture to guess that you haven’t lost your “training wheels” yet and keep depending mainly on the “store razor”, as you describe it.

Mastering a straight shave requires commitment, (+100 shaves) practice, and perseverance.
As long as one deprives oneself of continuous practice, straight shaves will IMO never amount to much.
So my advice is to lose the “store razor” training wheels and keep plodding on with a straight until you have mastered it; even if you might on occasion be tempted to throw in the towel.
(Trust me, we all had to go through this - and this is where “perseverance” comes in.)

And getting a close and comfortable shave around the jaw line and chin may be the hardest and last frontier to conquer when learning how to shave with a straight. This is an area where after years of straight shaving even I experiment occasionally with a new tweak in my search for the pefect shave.


In my book there is no such thing as a “weekend straight shaving apprentice” and one will never find out how close and comfortable a straight shave can be unless one is willing to commit the required extra 10-15 minutes to one’s shaving routine on a daily basis.

Wishing you steady improvement in your shaves,



B.

Good advice above. My best advice to add to that is find someone near you or go to a "meet". You will learn more in just a few hours than weeks and months on the web.

Example: If you came to my house, we would first check the shave ready-ness of your razors and touch up as needed. I would then shave, followed by watching you shave. Just seeing a proper routine can mean a LOT, having someone evaluate and guide you is the icing on the cake.

Gasman made a good point modern mach whatever type cartridges have many blades effectively making one pass 3 to 5+ couple that with a short length and ability to hit your face in every conceivable angle and direction its a system that any moron can get a clean shave without any skill or effort and of course by design for the masses to succeed in a task that used to take skill and or a barbers intervention to get right. So keep in mind the straight razor we all love has many challenges with it. You have to develop skill and an understanding of your beard growth and overcome the obstacles of a large blade that has to get sometimes in impossible places on your face and again hit it in multiple directions, no easy task but fun. Then again there is blade maintenance honing and all that jazz that makes up this hobby and again fun. Straights have the same potential in doing a great job as any other brainless system the difference is us not the tool on how far we achieve a great result. Some people shave to get out the door and some people shave to have fun and enjoy the luxury. I happen to be the latter. So keep at it and have fun.

when I started I felt the same way.

BUT with that said, you know what a good shave is a what a bad shave is. I am sure you have been shaving for years already.
don't lie to yourself like I did thinking its you when you keep getting bad shaves. My issues were my razors were NOT honed properly and they shaved poorly and left me with stubble under my chin and all over my jaw line. I then honed my own and thought I was doing good until I shaved and the shave was still...IFFY. Sorta good, but not. I didn't hone well and thought I did.

There IS a definite technique you need to develop, but it doesn't take months and months. We aren't cracking the nuclear codes here and this isn't all that hard.

I also rolled my edge on the strop and didn't know it, so I had a bad edge and then a worse edge...Not a good combo.

A properly honed blade will shave you like a DE does and like a MACH III does, effortlessly and without pulling and without a stubble field left all over your face. Something is definitely wrong if you can't get a close shave.

I won't blow smoke about BBS and all that...bottom line is I now can get a super nice BBS shave with a straight razor because I learned how to sharpen my razors to my taste and use those razors effectively. Until you know how to do that, your shaves will properly not be that good...Ropey...Stubbly..etc.

you don't need to learn magic tricks to slide a razor down your face, if you do then something is WAY OFF.

Are you honing your own razors? Have you sent them out for anyone to evaluate the edges?

I’m only 75 shaves in and I’m getting a BBS shave more often now. For me, I enjoy the challenge, the chase of that perfect shave . With enough attention, information and the willingness to experiment that “ perfect” shave is not so elusive. It may sound kind of Zen but that’s how I see it

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Originally Posted by Disburden

I won't blow smoke about BBS and all that...bottom line is I now can get a super nice BBS shave with a straight razor because I learned how to sharpen my razors to my taste and use those razors effectively. Until you know how to do that, your shaves will properly not be that good...Ropey...Stubbly..etc.

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This is a really helpful post!

Just to be clear -- are you saying that you get a BBS shave with one pass?

That's my goal. I can get one with 2 passes, but don't really have the time in the morning before work, so want to get the best shave I can practically get without rushing but also without taking too much time on a work day.

I don't know how one could get a full BBS smooth over the entire face with one pass, unless all of the facial hair grows the same way. This individual may exist but would prove to be exceptionally rare...