Against the grain problems

I've been SR shaving for about 2-3 months now. I'm getting quite comfortable with my WTG and XTG shaving. But even when I do both of these passes, there is still significant stubble around my face. I attribute this to hair which grows almost parallel to the skin.

Every once in a while, I'll try ATG after my WTG and XTG passes, on the part of my neck that is flat and easy to shave. No matter how sharp my blade, it tugs to the point of (almost) not budging. In fact, just today i touched up my blade with some crox and indeed my WTG and XTG passes felt much smoother, no tugging at all even on those pesky chin whiskers. But when I tried ATG, i had to push so much that I got some awful razor burn and a couple weepers. Yeah, I know, that was a bad idea.

But I can't understand why no matter what I try, ATG won't work for me. I use a more watery lather for that pass, I use such a shallow angle so that the spine is flat on my skin, and I stretch my skin as much as I can against the grain. I know a comfortable shave is important, but unless I do ATG when I shave (str8 or otherwise), my face feels like 100 grit sandpaper. Any suggestions?

Soft as an angel's kiss when you're first trying ATG and as wet as you can make it. Like when you started to get good at other stuff.

I have areas where ATG is a no go. I get what I need WTG and XTG. :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stimpy52

Soft as an angel's kiss when you're first trying ATG and as wet as you can make it. Like when you started to get good at other stuff.

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lol - too true!

I notice you mentioned angle, and skin stretching, but not pressure!

If I have even the mearest hint of pressure on the upper right portion of my neck below the chin, I get wicked alum burn.

There is a chance, of course, that your razor is the problem. WTG and XTG are not particularly difficult, even with a razor that could use to see some stone.

Watch Jockey's shaving video V.3 in the video/general forum. It should sound like you are buttering toast when you're shaving the hairs off on all the passes, but without any pulling or discomfort. That video should help, if you still have stubble after two passes maybe your razor isn't that sharp, or maybe it's dulled by the stropping? Maybe who honed it did so so it was sharp enough for them, but not for your hair type? Perhaps your angle isn't steep enough and your touch is too heavy? Maybe you're stretching the skin in the wrong direction and the hairs are laying flat, not standing upright?

These are all possibilities.

Yep, I had the same problem! I just cant do ATG passes, I end up looking like i've tried to sandpaper the stubble away. And the feeling of any sort of cologne, skin food, scrub or anything is like ignited jet fuel on my face. Not fun.

I never do ATG passes, my face just plain doesnt like them. I so a mix of WTG and XTG passes now and I can get BBS that way.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/shavi...eck-shave.html

The link above is a thread I started a while back on how to get BBS on your neck, but the same theory applies to the rest of your face as well.

Basically the idea is to pull your skin so that it make the hairs on your face stand up as much as possible. So in a simple example, say the hairs on your cheek grow pointing downwards you would pull the skin of your cheek upwards to make the hair stand up.

I spent ages one morning (about a half hour) feeling the direction of my stubble growth in order to work out which way to pull my skin, and once you have it worked out you can get BBS by going as much XTG as possible. I dont even go WTG first, I make my passes as much XTG as possible right from the off, and it works great for me.

You may not be able to go totally XTG (for example on your neck) on a pass, so a combination of skin stretching and direction of pass will need to be used.

I've found I have to put alot more thought into my shaving with a straight and try to get the best result by combining stretching and pass direction as I mention above. Dont just assume you can keep going with the same passes you used with a Mach 17 or something, they probably wont be as effective..!

If people would find it useful, I'll put a video up talking about the different skin stretches and passes and stuff that let you get BBS without attempting the ATG pass. Any requests?

I assume that you've read this

Buffing helps me a lot. I don't usually stretch at all at the ATG because it is easy way to get ingrowns for me. Scything motion is one thing to think about too. Be careful with the pressure during buffing and scything. It must stay as light as possible.

I find that the ATG pass has to be done with the absolute softest touch, if you're going to apply pressure during your shave, this is not the pass to do it on.

thanks for the advice everyone. As for light touches, when I don't put much pressure on my ATG pass, the razor simply catches on the hairs and won't budge. I'm guessing that's a sign of a dull razor, even though the WTG and XTG passes feel comfortable. I'll try the skin stretching more, but it's hard for me b/c my hairs grow at such a shallow angle and I can only stretch my neck skin so much...

Stubear, I support your efforts to make a skin stretching video :)

DanS,

I had the same problem when I started ATG passes.

I would end up with a reaised red line on my neck where the blade had 'stuck'.

Got some funny looks at work :)

Please keep at it; I found the grip was very important - I now hold the razor with thumb and forefinger at the side of the tang, so that you cannot apply much pressure to the stroke.

Then all of a sudden the ATG passes were good - like flipping a light switch !! I still don't know why it happened like this :confused:

Best regards

Russ