I was sure this wouldn't be me

I've been shaving daily with a shavette for about a month and a half now. I've gotten to the point finally where I get pretty damn good shaves every day and knick myself rarely. I know my shavette is a sub-par instrument though compared to real straights, so I've really been looking forward to when it was in the budget to get my first real straight. About a week ago it finally was and I ordered a Dovo Best Quality from SRD and an Illinois strop from amazon.com.

Yesterday my razor arrived and it was like Christmas morning. I nearly couldn't wait to shave with it the the next day. Just for kicks when I unwrapped it I gave it the HHT, which to my surprise it didn't pass. No matter though, I know the real test is shaving with it. So this morning I had at it. I know SRD's razors come shave-ready so I simply wiped off the thin coat of oil and started. I fully expected it to be the best shave I've had to date.

I can't tell you how sad and totally surprised I am to say it was awful. It yanked the whiskers horribly and irritated the skin along the way. I made sure to not use much if any pressure, adjust my angle, all to no avail. It was so rough and uncomfortable I actually pulled out the shavette and finished my shave with that.

Now, I know and I've read many, many times on this forum (I read a lot and post very little), that 9.9 times out of 10 it's user error when someone gets a shave-ready razor from a reputable source and has problems with it. I also know Lynn's stellar reputation which is of course why I bought from him. So I'm willing to concede that I'm most likely doing something wrong here. I just can't figure what it is.

I like to think my technique is getting pretty good from using the shavette for the last 45 or so shaves. I understand there may be slight differences but could they be that different as far as having to change technique drastically? I've been told by other members here that when they had their first shave with a real straight after using a shavette that it was like a wonderful dream.

I haven't received my strop yet, so that rules out poor stropping technique as the culprit. All I did to the razor before I shaved with it was gently wipe off the oil, per instructions on SRD's website.

Other than that the routine was the same as I've been using to get great shaves every morning: Preshave is just a hot shower, good lather with a badger brush and puck of Williams.

What did I do wrong? Should I wait until I receive my strop, give it a good stropping and then see how it goes? Any help is appreciated.


Lawrence

I had a very similar experience when I began. Trust me it will get much much better, you really just need to work on technique. A slightly change in angle could mean a world of a difference. Try going very slow next time, with very very light pressure, and toy with the angle until it cuts smoothly. That's my best advice and it worked for me but I'm sure others will help also

I'd say give it another go (even if your strop hasn't arrived yet) when your irritation has cleared up and see if there's any improvement.

I think ATS200 hit on it. Realize that the blade in your shavette is very thin and the angle formed at the edge of the blade is going to be much more acute than the angle of a straight. This means the angle of approach of the blade relative to your skin is going to be different. You spent up to 45 times developing your muscle memory to hold your shavette at a particular angle in order to maximize your cutting stroke. Now your brain and body are keeping you from shaving right! In other words, your use of the shavette MIGHT have put you at a disadvantage.

Now realize that I have never used a shavette and may be completely wrong in my speculation. I suspect that you will be able to adjust fairly soon to the straight razor, but I suggest that you do not use the shavette until you get the straight worked out. Hang in there.

Lawrence,

I'm sorry your first experience with a straight wasn't what you hoped, but it WILL get better! As ats mentioned angle is crucial. Although I've never used a shavette I've heard others say it doesn't exactly translate to a straight. When I was first learning I found it felt like the razor was dragging/pulling when I inadvertently used an angle greater than 30 degrees. Ive heard Lynn say this is often because ones wrist tends to flip back (hyperextend) if you're not thinking about it. Remember to use a light touch too. Never force or push the blade.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the thoughts. I'll give it another go tomorrow and pay closer attention to, and further experiment with the angle.

there is a world of difference when shaving with a straight. when you get comfortable and confident with it, you should have no problems. remember, preshave prep is critical, as is technique

Place the spine against your cheek then carefully lower the rest of the blade against your skin. Next lift the spine so it is just hovering above your skin. Your angle will be in the ballpark. Adjust as needed.

I think the 30 degree shaving angle recommendation does more harm than good. I think the angle should almost aways be lower than that, especially for a beginner's first attempts.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

I think the 30 degree shaving angle recommendation does more harm than good. I think the angle should almost aways be lower than that, especially for a beginner's first attempts.

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I totally agree. As you get to 30 degrees and above, if any pressure is applied at all, things get dicey, and I mean 'dicey' as in dicing carrots.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

I think the 30 degree shaving angle recommendation does more harm than good.

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Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I repeated the 30 degree rule of thumb out of habit. Similar to what Onimaru mentioned, keeping the spine 1-2 spine-widths off the face is a better idea. It's kind of hard to hold a protractor against ones face while shaving anyway;)

Guys, I could be off base here, but I would expect a Shavette's shaving angle to be lower than a straight. The thinner blades amount to a more acute bevel, requiring a lower shave angle. (Or am I wrong here? :shrug: )

If my base assumption is correct (I've never used a shavette), I'd expect Lawrence's angle of attack is too shallow (spine too close to face) resulting in poor cutting. Add to that basic math: Frustration + Dissappointment --> Pressure and you get nasty razor burn and pulling.

On the other end of the spectrum if Lawrence had read up and read posts that I've read suggesting that when you transition from a shavette to a straight you need more angle, he may have gone over the top and gotten the same results. Only you can tell us Lawrence.

Keep at it. As I mentioned, I've never used a shavette, but once I found the sweet spot for blade angle my shaves were unbelievable (maybe not the best to be had, but far better than I'd ever expected!).

Peace,

The Shavette does require a lesser numerical angle (flatter) than a straight. Getting too vertical (moving up toward 30 degrees) with a Shavette puts the shaver's skin at risk because the Shavette's blade is extremely sharp and is perfectly happy to dive right in.

When I made the same transition from Shavette to Straight, I had the additional complication that I was honing the blades myself, so I wasn't sure if the problem was my honing or the transition itself. I found two major differences. First, I did have to raise the spine somewhat more. Secondly, for the first time I was able to hear and feel the whiskers being cut as the straight went through them. With the Shavette, the blade, often a Feather, was so sharp that there was no noise and little in the way of feel.

hang in there man, just keep trying it at diffrent angles and it will adventually start cutting, remember not to use any pressure unless you want a tattoe for the brave (scar) the razors weight will do the work and you can rest assurded that the razor is sharp if it came from srd.

What everyone else said plus prep is very important as is skin stretching. My first straight shaves were nothing to write home about but things improved rapidly.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I had another go with it just a little bit ago. I did get a full shave in with the Dovo today, albeit not a very good one. Decreasing the angle actually did help. When I tried yesterday I was much closer to 30 degrees and tweaking the angle in that range to no avail.

Taking an extremely narrow angle today did help, but there was still a good bit of dragging and skipping. I did a solid pre-shave treatment as usual and was careful about pressure etc.

It's probably just going to be a matter of practice and getting used to the new blade. I guess I just expected the transition from shavette to straight to be more seamless and comfortable. To my surprise, despite being somewhat similar in form and function it's a completely different animal. There's no question that I'll stick with it until I get it down though.

Interestingly, my experience with the angle of the shavette vs. the straight is the reverse of what a couple of you guys discussed. I've come to use a pretty wide angle with the shavette, very near 30 degrees and comfortably so, but so far it looks like the Dovo Best Quality is going to require a much more narrow angle from me.

Thanks again guys for all the suggestions and encouragement! It's very much appreciated. I'll keep posted on my progress.

Best,
Lawrence

Just to be sure, remember that skin stretching and pressure are pretty much just as important as the angle, it will just take a few shaves before you figure it out. happens to everyone

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Originally Posted by ace

I found two major differences. First, I did have to raise the spine somewhat more. Secondly, for the first time I was able to hear and feel the whiskers being cut as the straight went through them. With the Shavette, the blade, often a Feather, was so sharp that there was no noise and little in the way of feel.

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I also noticed that. With the straight I can really feel the whiskers a lot more as the blade goes through them as to where the shavette has nearly no tactile feedback like that. I hope I don't get jumped for this lol, but is it that the shavette blades are just sharper in general by virtue of being so thin and perhaps having a coating of some sort? Just curious.

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Originally Posted by Lawrence

I also noticed that. With the straight I can really feel the whiskers a lot more as the blade goes through them as to where the shavette has nearly no tactile feedback like that. I hope I don't get jumped for this lol, but is it that the shavette blades are just sharper in general by virtue of being so thin and perhaps having a coating of some sort? Just curious.

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I think that you're right there. But I will say, while I can feel through my fingers that the razor is meeting and slicing hair, when I'm at the right angle with a sharp blade, I honestly cannot feel it on my cheek. I can hear it, but I can't feel it.

In my case, ingrown hairs were the norm with mulitiblades and ellllectrics! I just used clippers for 10 years due to ingrown hair issues! I have had 2 of them in 8 years after going straight and those were close to beard/moustache. Missed some! Cured my issues!

Glad things went better for you today Lawrence.

I have a set of Chroma Type 301 "Porsche" kitchen knives that came with a Japanese water honing stone and a guide to put on the knife to keep the honing at a 15 degree angle. I was quite surprised at how little 15 degrees actually is. It helped me to refer to this when I started shaving with a straight razor.

I have a feeling that a lot of beginners wind up using more like 45 degrees when they first start. At the beginning, I had to lay the razor on my cheek and then barely lift the spine to keep between a 20-30 degree angle. After four months, I now find I can more easily determine a 10, 15, 20, or 30 degree angle by feel. There is no one perfect angle when dealing with an imperfect face. I find myself constantly changing the angle to keep the razor moving smoothly.

I forget how many years ago I gave up trying to convince people that a shavette was not an adequate tool to use to learn to shave with a straight razor. But, I'd say, after probably 20 posts on the subject, I gave it the old college try. But, then, it only takes one more post, from someone that doesn't even use or own one, to nullify any potential gain from typing them up. No matter how you look at it, there are straight razors, and there are Shavettes.

I won't defend Shavettes as a way to start straight shaving, except to say this: They only cost $30 bucks and so are an inexpensive entry point into using a straight blade. Also, the blades are certainly sharp, so that takes the "Is it me or the razor?" stuff out of the equation. They do help you refine your technique because you either start to get it right or pay a big price in cuts. Having said all that, it was certainly a relief to move from the Shavette to a proper straight, and my face thanked me for it.

I still like my shavette. It's my crutch. What you both said is true. I got the shavette as an intro to something other than a multi blade. I asked for a straight for Christmas but ended up with the shavette due to price. I truly expected an easy transition to a real straight. After 3 months of the shavette it was rough. 2 months later I'm just getting the hang of not being in pain at the end of my shave. Except for the upper lip where I still use the shavette because I was dumb and got a big wedge to shave with and it doesn't fit in that area too well...

So like ace and afdavis said, start with a regular straight and save yourself some later pain. Or at least some future razor burn.

That's advice I will heed myself.