Do you get razor burn?

I like a very close shave. That means incorporating several against-the-grain (or south-to-north) passes to force every one of those stubbly little suckers into ultimate submission. The technique certainly works well, but along with it can come a rather intense razor burn.

If I hold off for at least one day between shaves, the burn either doesn't happen or it is very light when I'm done. But normally, I prefer to shave on a daily basis. Now, my beard is not what I’d call heavy and my skin does tend to be a little on the sensitive side (just my skin, mind you – personally, I’m about as sensitive as a bulldog in heat).

I’ve used Feather brand DEs for about seven years but I’m new enough to straights that I don’t have an expert’s touch yet, so it could just be my fault and may improve with practice. Or it might be my need to develop a better stropping or shaving technique. What the answer is, I’m just not certain.

However, I’m sure I’m not the only one who has experienced this, so what have you done to improve or eliminate the burn from A-T-G passes? Or do you even perform A-T-G passes? Please let me know what your thoughts are.

Thanks,

Bruce

One way to eliminate razor burn stemming from ATG passes is just to eliminate them, at least for a while. If you must go ATG, and I do it all the time, you have to rely on a proper angle, good prep, and use as little pressure as you can. You won't have an "expert's touch" for quite a while if you're new to straights. I don't yet either. You may have to check your blade's sharpness as well. Razor burn is the first step on the road to good shaving, and we've all taken that step too.

I have a tough beard and use ATG also. Try using a little shave oil on each pass. Also, the touch on the razor is important, go very lightly. Sooner or later the burn will go away when you get your technique down.

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Originally Posted by ace

One way to eliminate razor burn stemming from ATG passes is just to eliminate them, at least for a while. If you must go ATG, and I do it all the time, you have to rely on a proper angle, good prep, and use as little pressure as you can. You won't have an "expert's touch" for quite a while if you're new to straights. I don't yet either. You may have to check your blade's sharpness as well. Razor burn is the first step on the road to good shaving, and we've all taken that step too.

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I agree, sharp razor, light touch, good technique
(I use a glide with a SR, and shave my chin with the
heal of the blade, so it doesn't flex much), and prep.

My skin gets irritated if I go ATG. I've found that I can get an excellent -- and more importantly, comfortable -- shave by just going WTG and XTG. Closeness is nice and if your skin can handle ATG, go for it. Do not sacrifice comfort for closeness, though.

All good sound advice. I notice a lot less razor burn if I do not try to get BBS as I'm going ATG. After the ATG pass. Re-lubricate with plenty of hot H2O and massage your lather in with your fingertips. This will show you your missed hairs, grain pattern, and re-hydrate your face and help your razor do the finishing touches you're looking for. Stay wet-stay stay-slippery.

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Originally Posted by commiecat

My skin gets irritated if I go ATG. I've found that I can get an excellent -- and more importantly, comfortable -- shave by just going WTG and XTG. Closeness is nice and if your skin can handle ATG, go for it. Do not sacrifice comfort for closeness, though.

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same here. wtg then xtg. i'm all about comfort.

It may surprise you what a difference the right shave soap/cream can make.

A good sharp blade, good prep and the lightest of touch and I don't have problems with it. The only time I've had a problem through soaps/creams are with those containing sandalwood, one (Taylor's) used to begin burning before I even put the blade to my face. If you're absolutely confident of your technique and products then perhaps your skin is just too sensitive for the ATG pass.

I have to confess that I always want to have the BBS'est shave possible, and ATG is one of the only ways for me to get it. I have medium beard and use lot's of face prep to help reach my goal. I do get razor burn from it sometimes, but any really good after shave balm will help and shaving every other day is good also, as a mater of fact with a really close BBS I don't get beard back in less than 2 day's any way!!

Welcome to straight razors, with time you'll love if.

tinkersd of SRP

I reckon it's all been said, but I will say I got the lightest of light razor burn recently, when I tried a four pass shave. I think I wouldn't have had any burn, if I had have just lightened my touch, knowing that I was going to be making an extra two passes to my usual WTG/ATG combo.


Mick

+1 on shave oil, it can help a little and make that shave a little smoother. Also, a good stretch while staying light handed is what works for me.

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Originally Posted by AlanII

.. those containing sandalwood, one (Taylor's) used to begin burning before I even put the blade to my face.

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To me this may suggest you are allergic to sandalwood eo?

Str8, I think that was Alan's point.

Somewhere here on SRP, there was a great thread that talked about razor burn and what causes it. Basically it comes down to pressure and angle. If you're experiencing razor burn with a blade that is truly up to snuff, it's because of too much pressure and/or too steep of an angle. Some guys with tougher skin might be able to get away with the pressure you're using, but apparently you cannot (neither could I).

For me, my hair at the jawline grows from chin to ear, and this was the most important part. One, when I'm thinking I have a habit of rubbing my hand over this area, and a stubbly feeling isn't good. Two when wearing a collared shirt, a coat, or a hooded sweatshirt this stubble literally wears away the fabric/lining and gets irritated just in the course of the day as I turn my head from side to side. And if all that wasn't enough, these same whiskers were the ones that my wife complained about when she'd touch my face. They have to go.

I'd get burn if I tried ATG directly, and if I tried it after three passes WTG/XTG/XTG. So, since I had studied the growth pattern already, I began to modify my strokes. My WTG pass in this area is a modified XTG, cutting at an angle that's about halfway between WTG and XTG. My XTG passes are modified about halfway between XTG and ATG. I go over this area with the first X/ATG modified pass from one direction, and the second X/ATG pass from the other direction. The result is BBS without a true ATG pass, and NO razor burn. For me, because of the growth patterns of my hair this was very natural to get into. WTG on my cheeks flows seamlessly into XTG on my jawline. By slightly angling the stroke I still get a WTG pass on my cheeks, but the modified W/XTG pass at the jawline. This may not work for you. It all depends on your growth patterns.

Peace,

As far as I'm concerned Razor Burn is pain and pain means something bad is happening. I don't think burn should be considered a necessary evil of a close shave ever. Sure you can use better products or techniques to minimize it however if you do too many passes or the wrong angle or too much pressure or anything your skin dislikes you will get it. BBS doesn't necessarily mean you got the best shave. I can shave with an electric and be totally BBS yet 4 hours later I have stubble. Often times with a straight you have to know when to quit the additional assault on the skin.

IF I try ATG, I usually get some burn. Here are some things that minimize it, for me.

1. Rinse with COLD water at least after an ATG pass. It 'douses' the fire a little.

2. I am not versed on many aftershaves, but I use a more generous amount of this one lotion I get from Bath&Body Works that is 'Eucalyptus & Spearmint'. Eucalyptus is a natural antiseptic, and the whole lotion is very soothing on my face.

Your description sounds like it's about "power" i.e. "submission." The light touch will actually cut better. The more you press on the skin, the more the angle of the hair is changed for a poorer cut. I'm learning the lighter the touch, the better the cut. I don't get much razor burn, and what little I do get, the alum, Nivea Balm, and Bay rum relieve quite nicely.

I got nasty razor-burn when I started out with straight-razors because I was still learning how to sharpen. After two or three weeks though, the burning stopped. Never had it since.

I don't even think Iv'e had a good shave unless my face is burning at least some. After shave balm help cool that.
If I do my job right I don't get significant beard growth again for a couple of day's. I like to get my dimes worth[or euro, depending were your from]

tinkersd of SRP

I was doing well shaving almost every day with a STR8 razor, until this week and now two days in a row I got razor burn. I suspect the change is in honing, where I started to use diamond paste this weekend (just coticule finish prior to this) - so razor edge may be as much to blame as angle/pressure/technique.

I agree with that being the possible cause, I too use diamond finishing flat hones in .5 and then .25Um but follow with 40 or so laps on a decent grade of CromX. Some might say it's a lot of laps but it's a matter of personel techneque, have a great shave and a BBS every day!!

tinkersd or SRP.

The original poster had been using a Feather DE, before trying a straight razor. IMHO, a Feather DE blade is a good proxy for a really sharp straight razor, held at a proper angle against the skin.

Two questions:

1) Were you doing an ATG pass with the Feather DE?

2) Did you have razor burn with the Feather DE ?

If answer to (1) is "yes", and answer to (2) is "no", then either:

. . . your straight-razor edge is not as sharp as the Feather DE, or

. . . you're using more pressure on the straight razor, than you used on the Feather DE, or

. . . you're using too steep an angle for the ATG pass (which is easy to do!).

If answer to (1) is "no":

. . . See what an ATG pass with the Feather DE feels like (very very light pressure -- the ATG hairs tend to pull the edge into your skin!).

If no razor burn that way, your straight razor needs honing or more stopping, or you should reduce the pressure you're using.

. . Charles

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Originally Posted by tboyer

I agree, sharp razor, light touch, good technique
(I use a glide with a SR, and shave my chin with the
heal of the blade, so it doesn't flex much), and prep.

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Yup ... It took me a while to get everything just right so I didn't get razor burn or nicked. BUT in time you learn your face and improve your technique as well as handling the razor.
Once you figure it all out you will have a shave like you never imagined possible.
Just remember to never get to comfortable as thats when you get bit lol

There are so many factors that influence the "pleasure" of shaving with a straight is makes it fun to learn. Although I much prefer my mistakes to result in less than DFS or BBS results, razor burn takes the fun out.

I have recently found that if I rewet my face between passes, it has reduced if not eliminated razor burn. I focus on my shaving technique and pay attention to my str8's angle. Actually it has been quite a while since I have last experienced razor burn.

By keeping my str8 razor shaving process simple, I have come away with an almost BBS shave and no razor burn. The BBS will eventually come with time, practice, and patience.

I almost never do ATG because I'm still not quite as skilled as I'd like to be, but I use a mix of WTG and XTG shaving. I have sensitive skin, so I've traditionally razor-burned at the drop of an excuse. I've finally got my str8-shaving to the point where I'm just getting a nice shave every morning, rather than a burnt-out mess.

However:

In my experience, the difference between the best shave ever and razorburn is a second and a half with a handful of sunscreen.

Now, if anyone knows how to put an end to *that,* they'd be my hero.