Disposable razor Blades (Feather Straight Razors?)

Hi

I'm 22 years old and already fed up of paying over the top for disposable cartridge razors that don't do the job. I have decided to switch to the old fashion way of a straight razor.

I have bought a cheap straight razor that has disposable blades. (As mentioned in your 'Not to buy' list ;)

1) I wasn't sure if I'd get on with the real thing
2) I need to get the hang of it
3) I couldn't warrant spending £100 on something to only risk damaging it.

I have a few cuts in my face but I was expecting this. I've gradually got the hang of it over the last couple of days but I was wondering just why do I keep making my blood vessels visible after shaving.

Sometimes I can shave my throat (I'm surprised as this is the place I was crapping my self) dead smooth but my side burns and jaw line is awful. I can't really shave my chin because I cut my self and the hair is thcik and stub burn.

I was wondering if its the razor (being so cheap) or my technique. Why do people opt for a solid blade rather then a disposable blade that would be easier to keep sharp.

Thanks
Dan

Welcome to SRP, Dan.

The easy answer to your question is a solid (aka traditional straight) razor will provide exceptional shaves - smooth and comfortable - when enough time has been invested to master the art. This is opposed to disposable straights, which many deem to be harsh and unforgiving of poor technique. Nostalgia can also play a part. This is a hobby for people that like to take time for themselves. If a quick and easy shave is all we wanted we'd still be slaves to Gillette :)

I'm not sure where Feather brand razors come into your question. They have a good reputation among disposable razors, but are quite expensive, especially if you are trying to save a few bucks (or quid, in your case ;))

I've used a Sanguine razor myself, and although I found it too light, I was able to get very nice shaves after a couple of weeks of daily use, without any major damage. By the time I tried it I was confident in my lather having been using a DE for about 8 months beforehand. What's your pre-shave prep Dan? What kind of soap/cream are you using?

These razors are functional although harsh until you dial in the techniques required. There are some videos on youtube if you search shavette shaving I think. I watched some before my first shavette shaves.

Dannyboy - I am a big fan of going "all-in." In other words, buying a straight, strop and all those things you think you might need to get into shaving with a straight right away. Learning to use a straight isn't something that will happen overnight - it takes a while. I swore I would shave with nothing but a straight for a year so that I would "master" it. Not sure I have mastered it yet - and its been over a year lol. I do know what I am doing though :). I think...

That said - you can really do it on the cheap - well under 100 pounds - well under.

If that appeals to you - start a thread or better yet, do a search on how to get into it on the cheap. It's been asked a few times.

I'll say this after reading them a few times if you are interested - these are usually the top three answers:

- buy from the classified her on SRP
- buy a Dovo "Best"
- whippeddog.com

Of course - make sure it's honed - especially if you go the Dovo route - it's not sharp enough out of the box.

Me personally - I would go the Dovo Best way. I would and I did :) (at one time I thought new was the way to go).

Good luck.

P.S. I am not a fan of the shavette YMMV.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

Hi

I've gradually got the hang of it over the last couple of days but I was wondering just why do I keep making my blood vessels visible after shaving.

<snip>

I was wondering if its the razor (being so cheap) or my technique. Why do people opt for a solid blade rather then a disposable blade that would be easier to keep sharp.

Thanks
Dan

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You've gotten a lot of really good advice already but I thought I'd answer the two questions you posed directly.

1. You're making your blood vessels visible because you're shaving at too acute (sharp) an angle. Remember, you're cutting your whiskers off, not scraping them off. A shavette is incredibly sharp and unforgiving. If the angle is too steep it'll happily take skin along with the beard.
2. Both the razor being cheap and your technique. In a much more expensive alternative (Feather) the part of the razor that holds the blade is angled more like a traditional straight so it is a little more forgiving of poor technique.

Hope this helps and I'd suggest you follow the excellent advice you've already been given. You can get started with a very nice straight razor and everything else you'll need to get you going for under 100 quid.

Good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by earcutter

- buy from the classified her on SRP
- buy a Dovo "Best"
- whippeddog.com

---

Thanks for the reply guys.

Instead of making a new thread and becoming unpopular I will ask a few questions in this one.

1) Why do people make their own shaving cream and use a badger brush? Isn't Gilette good enough?

2) With my 'shavette' I have no problems shaving my neck (which I'm still utterly amazed due to the fact I was scared of doing this) and I can get a clean smooth shave after just 2 passes and that's with the grain but I struggle to get my Jaw line and side burns perfectly smooth after several passes. I end up going against the grain to get a super smooth shave then that's when It leaves my face quite sore. Is this because its a poor razor or my technique is wrong? I'm guessing it would be a lot more easier with a more traditional Dovo razor with a better quality?

3) Are all Dovo ones the same quality (from new). Price's seem to fluctuate a awful lot.

Thanks
Dan

Canned goo you buy in the stores is made for cartridge type razors not straights. I found that out early on myself.

If you use a classic soap or cream you need something to make the lather and a brush is the classic way to do that. Badger is considered the top but folks use boar and horse too.

To the best of my knowledge all
Dovo razors are of excellent quality.

The difference in prices is due to
things like scale material. Some
( best quality ) have plastic while
others have "exotic wood" or even
horn scales. Also the latter two often
have gold wash.

But blade quality is the same.

Terry

PS... You owe it to yourself to try a good
soap or cream. A boar brush will work just
fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Canned goo you buy in the stores is made for cartridge type razors not straights. I found that out early on myself.

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What is it about the goo that makes it designed for cartridges? I have used a soap and brush for years but I don't understand what truly makes the goo suitable for cartridges but not straights.

I've used canned shaving cream with my straights just to see if it would work. It did. I prefer shaving soap and a cream and brush, but the so-called "Canned Goo" will do the job fine for me if I want to use it. I can also shave quite nicely with hand soap lathered up and applied with my hands, but I prefer the brush for the fun of it.

I've never really had a problem with
shaving. I went to straights because
I thought they were cool as hell - and
still do. I would be using a straight if
Mach3 or Fusion cartridges were dirt
cheap.

I've never tried canned cream or gel with
a straight. In fact I don't even have a can
of either in the house - so I can't offer an
opinion one way or another and won't even
try.

I simply use shaving soaps and creams and
face lather with a brush because it adds to
the whole experience for me personally.

Terry

Thanks for the reply guys, its cleared it up a lot better.

When I get my next pay cheque, I think I'll invest in a plastic Dovo razor (horn and bone will absorb water?), A quality strop (any particular makes?) and a brush with a pot.

I'm assuming that it will be easier when I have the proper tools rather then my £5 disposable feather razor ha ha.

I've used canned foam (gel) shaving with a straight. It works but the lather was drier than I make either with a cream or soap. I did the rest of my prep the same but applied the gel with my hands rather than with a brush since I was trying an experiment to see if just a straight and can of foam would work for travel. It did work, just not as well, at least for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

Thanks for the reply guys, its cleared it up a lot better.

When I get my next pay cheque, I think I'll invest in a plastic Dovo razor (horn and bone will absorb water?)

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You should make an effort to keep your straight dry when shaving. Rust on a razor is actually pretty easy to start and it's really not all that hard to keep the razor dry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Weaselsrippedmyflesh

You should make an effort to keep your straight dry when shaving. Rust on a razor is actually pretty easy to start and it's really not all that hard to keep the razor dry.

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I've seen a video on Youtube (Geofatboy) and recommended to wipe the excess on the back of your arm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

I've seen a video on Youtube (Geofatboy) and recommended to wipe the excess on the back of your arm.

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That'd certainly work. I have a small (face sized) towel hanging near the sink that I use to keep my hands dry and a wet sponge laying on the vanity to wipe the accumulated lather/hair on. I usually do a 3 pass shave so I rinse the sponge between passes so I start each pass with a clean sponge. When I'm finished shaving I wipe the blade of my razor with a tissue and leave it sit open while I put on after shave, clean up any water I've dripped around the sink and get dressed. I then put my razor (closed) on top of the dresser and let it sit out for a few hours before putting it in a box.

Not sure it's the "right" way (or even that there is a right way) but that's how I do it.

It is very important to keep water out of the space between the scales and around the pivot of a straight razor. Carbon steel will quickly and easily rust when left wet. It can be difficult to get all the moisture out of the pivot area, so it is far better to never let any water get into this area. It is heart breaking to put ones new razor away and to find it rusted or water spotted when taken out for its next use. Removing any rust on gold wash will probably remove or damage the gold wash. Always wipe the razor dry and closely inspect it for water and lather residue after each use. Wiping the cleaned and dry blade with a mineral oil or Camellia oil dampened patch after each use before it is put away is safer than leaving the blade unprotected.

The least expensive way to get a shave ready straight razor is:
- a new low end DOVO honed by the vendor before shipping (SRD, etc.),
- a classified section sale of a vintage shave ready razor,
- a Whipped Dog vintage razor,

Shaving, stropping, and honing are all acquired skills that need development. Although stropping and honing are not needed with shavette razor systems having disposable blades, the shave experience is not the same as using a true straight razor. The disposable blade system that is reported to come closest to a true straight razor shave is the Feather, but this system costs as much as a new straight razor, then there is the cost of the disposable blades.

A cheap low sided coffee mug, cheap boar bristle brush, and a puck of shaving soap (tabac etc.) are inexpensive but fully effective.

Some people only rinse the blade, then when finished they dry it and oil it.

When shaving I wipe lather from
the blade with a dry washcloth.
After I'm finished I lay a dry towel
on the counter and strop it a few
times.

I've never rinsed my blades.


Terry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wvbias

When shaving I wipe lather from
the blade with a dry washcloth.
After I'm finished I lay a dry towel
on the counter and strop it a few
times.

I've never rinsed my blades.


Terry

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Off topic but I have wanted to say this so many times. Every time I read your posts, I can't help but try to read it like poetry. Your carriage returns after every 5-6 words makes me read it like is prose :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sheajohnw

It is very important to keep water out of the space between the scales and around the pivot of a straight razor. Carbon steel will quickly and easily rust when left wet. It can be difficult to get all the moisture out of the pivot area, so it is far better to never let any water get into this area. It is heart breaking to put ones new razor away and to find it rusted or water spotted when taken out for its next use. Removing any rust on gold wash will probably remove or damage the gold wash. Always wipe the razor dry and closely inspect it for water and lather residue after each use. Wiping the cleaned and dry blade with a mineral oil or Camellia oil dampened patch after each use before it is put away is safer than leaving the blade unprotected.

The least expensive way to get a shave ready straight razor is:
- a new low end DOVO honed by the vendor before shipping (SRD, etc.),
- a classified section sale of a vintage shave ready razor,
- a Whipped Dog vintage razor,

Shaving, stropping, and honing are all acquired skills that need development. Although stropping and honing are not needed with shavette razor systems having disposable blades, the shave experience is not the same as using a true straight razor. The disposable blade system that is reported to come closest to a true straight razor shave is the Feather, but this system costs as much as a new straight razor, then there is the cost of the disposable blades.

A cheap low sided coffee mug, cheap boar bristle brush, and a puck of shaving soap (tabac etc.) are inexpensive but fully effective.

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A very very good reply. Many thanks!

I'm a carpenter by trade and sharpen my chisels on a regular basis so I know how to treat the steel to sharpen it.

I think I'll spend £100 or so on a 'all in one' kit and go from there. I'll keep you guys updated.

P.s. Assuming that the razor is super sharp, with the right angle (30*) should I be able to remove all my facial hair in one hit or would I need to rinse and re apply cream and go against the grain the second time?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

P.s. Assuming that the razor is super sharp, with the right angle (30*) should I be able to remove all my facial hair in one hit or would I need to rinse and re apply cream and go against the grain the second time?

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I've generally found that I get the best shave by doing multiple passes. First pass WTG to remove the bulk, second pass ATG to get smooth and then a third pass XTG in only a couple areas (cheeks and neck just below the chin). This results in a BBS shave that's still going strong 24 hours later.

If I'm in a hurry, I might do a single pass. I still get a good shave but not super smooth.

I am new to Straight razor shaving, having 12 shaves under my belt so far. So for what it is worth here is my opinion. I started with a shavette too. The first shave was ok, no nicks. 2nd and 3rd had several cuts each. Read on this forum that starting with a shavette was not such a good idea for learning which is the same thought I was slowly getting too. Bought the Dovo Best Quality razor and never looked back. However in retrospect, I thnk buying a first razor from Whippeddog is the way to go. A little cheaper and you know for sure it is a shave ready razor. After experiencing a well honed razor from MSorkin there just isn't any comparison. As far as soaps go, I'm still searching for one. Right now I'm using the Bigelow Proraso soap and the Van der Hagen. But I need to experience more before I settle in on any one particular soap. As far as getting around the jaw area, I still have that problem, however getting much better at it after figuring out that making a fist, putting it in the neck/throat area and pulling the skin tight with it helped quite a bit. It seems to pull the skin below the jaw line whear I can get at it better. Doubt this face will ever see a gillette again, but if it ever does it will still be pampered with a brush and a quality soap. It just feels so good when the soap is applied that way.
Good luck with yer new 'venture

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EggSuckingLeech

Off topic but I have wanted to say this so many times. Every time I read your posts, I can't help but try to read it like poetry. Your carriage returns after every 5-6 words makes me read it like is prose :)

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To be honest I can even explain
why I post this way...:shrug: :D

Terry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wvbias

To be honest I can even explain
why I post this way...:shrug: :D

Terry

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I would not shave it on a boat
I would not shave it with a goat
...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

A very very good reply. Many thanks!

I'm a carpenter by trade and sharpen my chisels on a regular basis so I know how to treat the steel to sharpen it.

I think I'll spend £100 or so on a 'all in one' kit and go from there. I'll keep you guys updated.

P.s. Assuming that the razor is super sharp, with the right angle (30*) should I be able to remove all my facial hair in one hit or would I need to rinse and re apply cream and go against the grain the second time?

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The WTG stroke does a good job, but I require XTG/ATG passes to get a really close BBS shave. Some skin areas are harder to shave close and need more passes. I rehydrate/relather frequently to keep my hairs as soft as possible, and to maintain good cushion and glide. It is not necessary to rinse before relathering or rehydrating facial lather. Pre shave prep to get the hairs as soft as possible before shaving is very important. If the lather does not rinse off my blade within a few seconds, I consider it as getting too dry and rehydrate/relather. I also relather difficult to shave spots immediately before shaving them to insure that the hairs are still as soft (easy to cut) as possible.

I use a lower blade angle shaving with ATG strokes, and try to generally keep my blade angle low as I get fewer nicks and less irritation that way. I start my stroke with the razor almost laying flat and increase the angle by raising the spine only as needed to get a good cutting of hairs.

I also use the guillotine stroke (blade edge is not perpendicular to the direction of the stroke) and a scything stroke (I rotate the blade a few degrees during the stroke centered from near the pivot area, this rotation is similar to the blade's motion when closing the razor). The guillotine and scything stroke gives a slight slicing action against the hairs making them a bit easier to cut than when using a straight push cut stroke. Be very careful when using these strokes as it is also easier to slice ones skin.

Keeping the razor shave ready is very important. There is a tendency to try to compensate for a dull razor by applying greater skin pressure, and making more passes, but this causes nicks and razor burn.

It is important to keep this journey (learning shaving, stropping, and honing) a fun learning experience. BBS is not really necessary. If one is in a rush, tired, the shave is not going well, or one feels a need to get a really close shave everywhere and it is not yet happening with the straight razor, using ones usual means of shaving as a clean-up/backup will relieve anxiety and keep this a positive experience.

HTH

That thing that started the thread, I have one. If you put it down on a smooth surface on its side, and start tilting the blade up into the cutting position, you'll see that you have to achieve quite a high angle, beyond correct shaving angle, before the blade touches down. I took mine and modified the bevels leading up to the blade (I have a Japanese turntable grinding station, and it did a very nice job), making them flatter angled, right up to the cap, and cutting the whole thing thinner so there's not such a large step just before the blade. I also trimmed it just a hair more blade exposure.

As it is now, it works more properly, but it's still a treacherous device.

Dear Fellow Razorheads-Still learning straight razors myself, so in between straights I use a $30.00 vintage Gillette with quality Feather blades on the "9" setting. Smooth and very close shave:) My .02-Gearhead