Tips from Barber on Sensitive Skin

I switched to SR, and DE for several reasons. One was the cost replacing razor cartridges, and the other was my sensitive skin. Once I started using the SR, and DE and ditched the multibladed razors the condition of my skin improved and the sensitivity I felt subsided. I could only shave every other day with a SR or DE. When I shaved daily my face became very irritated. Last week I went to my barber and we were talking about shaving. He told me he could give me a shave, and explain what he was doing so that I might better understand how to shave. Normally I would probably have said no, but this man has been my barber since I was 13.
These are the tips he gave me for sensitive skin. Make sure the razor is sharp. "Not just shave ready, but sharp enough to cut a falling hair", (quite an exaggeration, but point taken). Apply oil, followed by hot towel. This hot towel will heat the oil, and soften the hair. Follow this one with another hot towel. Lather, then shave. As he was shaving he mentioned that quite a few guys will stretch their skin to shave, but only stretch by pulling up around the temple to do the whole cheek. Which works, unless you have overly sensitive skin. In this case shave like a barber would. Stretch about two or three inches of skin between your pointer finger, and thumb. Shave this area with two light passes. Do this for the whole face. When it comes to the neck, do not lean forward stretching out your head to see in the mirror. Get a good adjustable mirror to set on your vanity so your neck is in a relaxed position and follow the same steps to shave your neck as you did the face. Once he was done with my shave I have to admit I was very happy with the outcome. Comfortable, with very little to no irritation. I have been doing this at home now and discovered that my sensitive skin is no longer burning and irritated. It does take longer to shave, and it was a little awkward at first, but it is worth the extra time. Hopefully this might help others, or someone can also elaborate on this even more.

Merc, these are comprehensive instructions with many good points to remember. Thank you.

I would love to see some pictures on how you do this on your lower neck and below the chin line... this seems to be my most sensitive area... mainly because of my hairs sporadic growth patterns

I will try to get some images together this weekend. When I shave my jawline, I will slightly tilt my head downward, and stretch my skin upwards. It took a little while for me to get the angle right, but that is just about the only way I can shave my jaw. With the lower part of my neck, allow my head to stay in a normal relaxed position and stretch the skin upwards and to the side. The directions really depend on the direction of hair growth for me because my neck hair grows in different directions.

I found my biggest improvement was switching from fragrance heavy creams/soaps to things that are more natural.
Using MWF soap and Razorock aftershave wax and all my redness and irritation is now gone... It also helps that my form keeps improving...

A few days ago i gave myself a proraso aftershave splash and immediately got some redness and bumps...

I don't use anything for soap with a fragrance. They were either too strong of a scent or irritated my face. I try to stick to glycerin based soaps like those from Col. Conk.
I have heard that Proraso was harsh, so I have never tried it. I had a birthday recently and a family member bought me some Nivea aftershave balm, and I was surprised at how soothing it was on my face. Not the best stuff I have used, but definitely the best mass produced product.

Try out Razorock Aftershave Wax... Ive tried a bunch of different stuff and this has been leaps and bounds above the rest.

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Originally Posted by Merc

a family member bought me some Nivea aftershave balm, and I was surprised at how soothing it was on my face. Not the best stuff I have used, but definitely the best mass produced product.

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I was pleasantly surprised at how soothing the Nivea balm is. I have some Proraso balm too, and I'm honestly not sure I could say it's any better than the nivea.

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Originally Posted by Merc

I don't use anything for soap with a fragrance. They were either too strong of a scent or irritated my face. I try to stick to glycerin based soaps like those from Col. Conk.
I have heard that Proraso was harsh, so I have never tried it. I had a birthday recently and a family member bought me some Nivea aftershave balm, and I was surprised at how soothing it was on my face. Not the best stuff I have used, but definitely the best mass produced product.

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For readily available and performance the Nivea for sensitive skin is my go to. As my technique has improved I am finding I can use many scents, when I first started anything with a scent irritated me, soaps on the second pass, aftershave balms post shave etc.

Since I can only do a 2 pass shave or I get irritation, no matter if it is straight or DE, I assume I have sensitive skin. Having never shaved anyone else I can only assume that rather than knowing it for a fact. So ...... if you are into experimentation, try the cold water shave.

Prep is lather (cold) and rub it into your whiskers vigorously. Relather and shave. For me it has been a better shave and no irritation. YMMV.

For the oil in the presave, try glycerine oe vitamine e oil....both are inexpensive.

I started using slicing strokes which has resulted in an excellent 2 pass shave. With bbs on the face without going directly ATG. I can get it on the jawline and about 2 inches under. The lower neck gets the regular straight on shave. What I have found is with slicing strokes, the blade cuts thru without resistance and without pulling up the skin which IMO is why I got irritation before.

Please photos.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

So ...... if you are into experimentation, try the cold water shave.

Prep is lather (cold) and rub it into your whiskers vigorously. Relather and shave. For me it has been a better shave and no irritation. YMMV.

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I tried this the other day after reading your thread on it. I put water in my scuttle and froze it over night. I done my normal shave prep with hot towel and oil. Then I used lukewarm water on my brush, to make my later. The cold scuttle took a little longer to make later, but once it did the later seemed to hold better. The feeling of the lather was odd, but the shave did feel refreshing. I have to believe that this method gave me the smoothest shave on just one pass. Unless something changes over the next few days I am giong to keep on doing this.

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Originally Posted by bill3152

I started using slicing strokes which has resulted in an excellent 2 pass shave. With bbs on the face without going directly ATG. I can get it on the jawline and about 2 inches under. The lower neck gets the regular straight on shave. What I have found is with slicing strokes, the blade cuts thru without resistance and without pulling up the skin which IMO is why I got irritation before.

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I tried the slicing method once and got quite a few nicks. Any tips on how to do this without butchering my face?

Yah, ive had some great success with slicing method..
Shaving passes - Straight Razor Place Wiki

My neck (under my chin) seems to be the hardest spot to get a close shave... but with some skin stretching and slicing am able to do it easily. Just takes time and light pressure.

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Originally Posted by Merc

I tried this the other day after reading your thread on it. I put water in my scuttle and froze it over night. I done my normal shave prep with hot towel and oil. Then I used lukewarm water on my brush, to make my later. The cold scuttle took a little longer to make later, but once it did the later seemed to hold better. The feeling of the lather was odd, but the shave did feel refreshing. I have to believe that this method gave me the smoothest shave on just one pass. Unless something changes over the next few days I am giong to keep on doing this.

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If you eliminate the freezing, eliminate the lukewarm to make lather, it might be better. Maybe it wouldn't, but the premise given in the 1906 book is that the whiskers are more apt to be cut when there is no heat involved. As far as making lather, I found that, in my case, room temp tap water did just as well as hot water. I just make sure to leave a bit of water on top of the puck for a few minutes, pour a portion of that into the lather bowl, and then load the brush. I've run water onto the bristles, under the tap, until I feel the weight of the brush become heavier. Then shake it out a bit and load. Lather in the bowl and add a bit of water if necessary.

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Originally Posted by Merc

I tried the slicing method once and got quite a few nicks. Any tips on how to do this without butchering my face?

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The angle of attack has to leave the edge skimming over the skin, not digging in at all. Skin stretched taut, not drum tight, and only practice on areas that are easily done. As you gain proficiency go into the more difficult areas. Requires a low to no pressure light touch for good results.

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Originally Posted by Merc

I tried this the other day after reading your thread on it. I put water in my scuttle and froze it over night. I done my normal shave prep with hot towel and oil. Then I used lukewarm water on my brush, to make my later. The cold scuttle took a little longer to make later, but once it did the later seemed to hold better. The feeling of the lather was odd, but the shave did feel refreshing. I have to believe that this method gave me the smoothest shave on just one pass. Unless something changes over the next few days I am giong to keep on doing this.



I tried the slicing method once and got quite a few nicks. Any tips on how to do this without butchering my face?

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A down stroke on the face heel leading at almost 45 degree angle to the stroke. On the mustache I go up and slightly to the left or right. The jawline I do sideways with the blade at an angle. You need to use little or no pressure and be really careful you don't cut yourself. My strokes on the jawline and mustache are like 1/2 inch at a time. I believe an attempt to make a longer stroke will result in getting cut.(At least for me anyway). I am hoping I will master this method as the ATG on the mustache comes right off with no pulling and 1 pass it is done. I don't think this would work on my lower neck and so far I haven't attempted it.

Shaved tonight and used a lower angle heel leading. Like 30 degrees. Much better as no nicks. I'm liking this. Right lower neck needs straight cut to get smooth.

Tried the slicing technique and sort of uncomfortable with it right now. Plan on staying with it for a few weeks and see how well it works out. Couldn't tell much of a difference with my first shave. Figure I need time to adapt to it.

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Originally Posted by Merc

Tried the slicing technique and sort of uncomfortable with it right now. Plan on staying with it for a few weeks and see how well it works out. Couldn't tell much of a difference with my first shave. Figure I need time to adapt to it.

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Me too! Im thinking it will work out in the end.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Since I can only do a 2 pass shave or I get irritation, no matter if it is straight or DE, I assume I have sensitive skin. Having never shaved anyone else I can only assume that rather than knowing it for a fact. So ...... if you are into experimentation, try the cold water shave.

Prep is lather (cold) and rub it into your whiskers vigorously. Relather and shave. For me it has been a better shave and no irritation. YMMV.

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I figure you've tried everything shave related under the sun... but I'm going to ask anyways since my neck is uber sensitive and not anymore.

Pre-shave oil??? alum block??? cold water rinse??? all things I have just started using... and all have helped produce 0 irritation. I know it aint the razor cause my technique can't be that great after 7 or 8 shaves but heh, my necks been thanking me.

Also find waiting a bit before applying ASB helps... as the moment i slap that stuff on any redness follows... where if i wait till say before bed and put it on. I wake up to a clean neck.

Ive been using the preshave oil and find a nice improvement in the overall comfortableness of the shave

I also use an Alum block which seems to do a great job (boy can I feel it on my neck)
Is the bad aluminum in under-arm deodorant the same aluminum in ALUM? Am i letting aluminum enter my system? If so, i may remove this from my routine

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Originally Posted by SteveRap

Ive been using the preshave oil and find a nice improvement in the overall comfortableness of the shave

I also use an Alum block which seems to do a great job (boy can I feel it on my neck)
Is the bad aluminum in under-arm deodorant the same aluminum in ALUM? Am i letting aluminum enter my system? If so, i may remove this from my routine

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Aluminum chlorohydrate in deodorant, potassium or ammonium (more painful) alum in alum block.

Alum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - for reference to alum blocks.

Deodorant - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - for reference to deodorant

Same alum that goes on your face can go into food so it's more than safe ;)

http://www.ochef.com/1080.htm

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Originally Posted by LikesBBS

I figure you've tried everything shave related under the sun... but I'm going to ask anyways since my neck is uber sensitive and not anymore.

Pre-shave oil??? alum block??? cold water rinse??? all things I have just started using... and all have helped produce 0 irritation. I know it aint the razor cause my technique can't be that great after 7 or 8 shaves but heh, my necks been thanking me.

Also find waiting a bit before applying ASB helps... as the moment i slap that stuff on any redness follows... where if i wait till say before bed and put it on. I wake up to a clean neck.

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Never used pre-shave oil, or alum block. I've been shaving with cold water for a couple of years now from start to finish. Before that it was always hot. I get what I need with the two passes + a touch up here and there. It is working so I'm not going to fix it. :)

While I haven’t used any pre-shave oils, it does make sense to use it ‘after’ the whiskers have been softened with the hot damp towel.

My old barber (who went to Barber School in 1945) didn’t use a pre-shave but did apply lather, then the hot towel, then re-lather and shave me. he told me that the hot towel and the 1st lather removed any body oil and then the second towel softened the whiskers.

I stumbled onto this video; I found it very interesting as the guy explains as he goes. He also touches on the sensitive skin issue quite often. It never hurts to hear and see someone else s methods.

Sorry about the AD at the start!

The Royal Shave @ The Art of Shaving - YouTube

I’ve never tried the cold water shave, but I always use cold water to rinse with, I find it very refreshing!!! My good friend pinklather swears by it! Well at least he used to! hehehe

Hang in there! No matter how long any of us have been shaving with a straight there’s always something to learn!!!:nj

ps. For $80 for the 'package' I'd damn well better be pampered!! The last time I got a barber's shave and a haircut it came to $10! Opps! Showing my age again!! Oh well at least I don't remember when a shave and hair cut was two bits!! (Oh, that's 25 cents for you young whipper snappers):rofl2:

One thing that worked for me in the past. Take an ice cube, wet it first!(very important or it may stick to your face) and roll it on your face and neck after shaving. I shave cold and keep my creams soaps and as balms in the fridge.

Thanks for sharing. Good point about how to keep the skin taut. I have a couple of videos of Turkish barbers (old timers) and they stretched the skin of the client as you described. They also used short, efficient strokes.

Thanks for posting that video cudarunner. I have seen many videos on shaving, and I think that this one is by far the best one. Everything is professional, and the barber is well informed, and able to convey what he is doing very well. The skin stretching technique that he used while shaving the neck, and around the chin is the same way my barber shaved my whole face. Small strokes, and skin taught between the fingers.
I know that I said I would be getting some picture together of the shave technique over the weekend, however I was not able to due to some family emergencies. I will try to get some later this week if people are still interested.

I liked the video.. the biggest tip i took away from it was his usage of the "tip" of the razor for shaving...
I was always trying to get as much of the razor on my face as possible... Not sure why.. just thought it was the best method..

Now with stretching, and using the end of the blade i was able to get a better shave...

Thanks for posting!

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Originally Posted by SteveRap

I liked the video.. the biggest tip i took away from it was his usage of the "tip" of the razor for shaving...
I was always trying to get as much of the razor on my face as possible... Not sure why.. just thought it was the best method..

Now with stretching, and using the end of the blade i was able to get a better shave...

Thanks for posting!

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Dont forget about the heel! That comes in very handy also!

I think, as with a number of people, my neck can often be fairly sensitive and I often get irritation there if I'm not careful. This evening's shave, considering my recent track record, resulted in quite a bit of irritation and I think (aside from generally overzealous shaving) there are two things that really contribute:

1. Water temperature—I find that if the water is too hot (and it was hotter than I normally use, tonight) then I end up with more irritation.

2. Razor grind—now, no one here's mentioned it and I'm sure people have said in other threads that technically, the grind of a blade makes no difference to the shave itself but the more blades I use, the more I'm becoming convinced that a heavier grind gives me a generally smoother, more comfortable and irritation-free shave.

Tonight I used a hollow ground Bengall and, even though the razor was sharp and smooth and glidey glidey over my face, my neck ended up all red and uncomfortable. I contrast this, firstly with my 1/4 hollow W&B, which gave a smooth and comfortable shave on Sunday, and an Edwin Blyde of the same grind, before that; and then with my hollow ground Dovo Flowing (and to a lesser extent, my vintage Bismarck) which feels harsher and more neck-unfriendly when I shave.

I definitely like having my hollows, just for some variation and whatnot but I'm increasingly avoiding them because I find the shave less enjoyable.

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Originally Posted by PigHog

I think, as with a number of people, my neck can often be fairly sensitive and I often get irritation there if I'm not careful. This evening's shave, considering my recent track record, resulted in quite a bit of irritation and I think (aside from generally overzealous shaving) there are two things that really contribute:

1. Water temperature—I find that if the water is too hot (and it was hotter than I normally use, tonight) then I end up with more irritation.

2. Razor grind—now, no one here's mentioned it and I'm sure people have said in other threads that technically, the grind of a blade makes no difference to the shave itself but the more blades I use, the more I'm becoming convinced that a heavier grind gives me a generally smoother, more comfortable and irritation-free shave.

Tonight I used a hollow ground Bengall and, even though the razor was sharp and smooth and glidey glidey over my face, my neck ended up all red and uncomfortable. I contrast this, firstly with my 1/4 hollow W&B, which gave a smooth and comfortable shave on Sunday, and an Edwin Blyde of the same grind, before that; and then with my hollow ground Dovo Flowing (and to a lesser extent, my vintage Bismarck) which feels harsher and more neck-unfriendly when I shave.

I definitely like having my hollows, just for some variation and whatnot but I'm increasingly avoiding them because I find the shave less enjoyable.

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I cold water shave, the only thing that works for me. Regarding the grind, I used to only get a great shave from a wedge or near wedge. For me anyway, I found I was using too much pressure and somehow flexed the hollow grinds. I resolved this by going extra easy with a very light touch and no further problems. As a matter of fact I now prefer the hollows.

I did cold-water shave but gradually got warmer and warmer again. I think I'll go back to cold or at least cool water!

I'm already very conscious of pressure and keeping my strokes as light as possible and I do find that it especially helps on my neck. Still, maybe things will change again. You're probably right from the point of view that there's something I need to adjust to when using a hollow.

When I started wet shaving I used a shavette. I used to use a two finger grip in the delicate areas. It felt real awkward but the light pressure was spot on.

That video was awesome, thanks. The part I found most helpful was his mention that alot of people shave downward without REALLY paying attention to the hair direction and as a result getting alot of neck irritation. It's basically like going ATG on your first pass in those areas. So this AM, I really paid attention to the direction and didn't just blindly go top to bottom on my first pass. My neck has never felt so comfortable after a shave but it was awfully tricky to pass the razor in some of the directions I needed to do.