Attachment 204532 Just found another to occupy my time. This one might turn out ok. Fredrick Reynolds suppose to be 6/8.
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Attachment 204532 Just found another to occupy my time. This one might turn out ok. Fredrick Reynolds suppose to be 6/8.
The lines look pretty crisp. It should clean up very nicely. It appears to be a wedge less design. Standing by waiting for the results.
It was described as wedge or near wedge. either will be ok. I do hope it cleans up good. I don't know if I will keep the scales or rreplace them with something else. if they clean up good I think I will keep them. stocking up on wet dry.
Do you have any experience honing wedges? If not, send it to someone who does. FR's are a bit difficult to hone anyway but a wedge/near wedge can really test you, I learned from experience. A FR was the first wedge I tried to hone, spent 6 hours on bevel alone and it was a failure. Sold it, learned from gssixgun's videos on honing a smiling wedge, got the razor back and honed it up, bevel and all, in about 45 minutes........a exceptional shaver. Once honed they can be some of the finest shavers out there. Good luck and keep us posted.
I've got a few other wedges and near wedge. Now i'm not in the same class as the pro's when it comes to honing but the ones I have I can shave with. It's true the smiling wedges are a bear to hone it took me a while to get where I could shave without those big ole crocodile tears but now it's not so bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoughBoy68
Sounds like you have had some of the same experiences I've had with wedges. I'm not in the same class as the pros either but now it doesn't feel like I'm shaving with a cheese grater........he! he! I do love those wedges, especially the big boys! Enjoy that FR, it looks like a real nice one.............
I would take it apart & probably start with 800 grit since they look pretty good. Then if you buy some wet or dry like you said, you can use progressions from there & move up to 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 & 3000 grit. Sand the insides of the scales as well. Then put some Maas on a soft rag. I use old t-shirts & cut 'em up. Polish it out then polish with a clean rag. I made these scales from raw slabs. I started out with 240, 280, 320, 360, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 & 3000 grit. i then polished by hand using the method I mentioned above.
Attachment 204587
You can also sand the blade in progressions starting at 320 & work up.
I have used the same method that Engine talks about with success:) Have fun and post pictures of the finished product for us!
Thanks Richard & Ernie.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernie1980
I usually start out but making a pattern & cutting my pieces out. I then use double sticky sided carpet tape that comes in a big roll & I put the two pieces together as even as possible. I then go to my belt sander & I put a radius on the scales so they won't look flat by going from one end to the other until they look pretty even. I use some of the coarse sandpaper to make the flat spots left by the belt sander until it is smoothly rounded. I them make my marks for my pins & drill the holes while the two pieces are still stuck together. You can then either leave it together & sand it in progressions or take them apart & sand them on both sides. If I leave 'em together then once I separate them, I sand the insides of the scales in progressions, then I polish them. I find it better to separate them & sand them.
Gee, that thing looks pretty good. I would scrub it all good with a toothbrush and diluted simple green some. Rub some Comet with a cottonball all over. Rinse sparingly. Light blow-dry. Maybe some WD40 and CroOx rubbed on the blade. Neetsfoot oil applied heavily inside and out on the scales with a q-tip, let soak in. Lightly polish, Tufglide the blade, and hone. Is perfect. Needs some clean, that's all. I would think it would not need unpinning . JMO
That'll work too Tom!Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
It wasn't the same on a Frederick Reynolds I have though. It had the translucent scales & I had to unpin it & sand the scales down on both sides & polish them but it also had a cracked blade & I had a replacement blade for it. The end results were very nice! I'm not doubting what you say though.
Cannot hurt to try the light stuff. The OP's old razor is all-original. It should remain so as much as possible, I think! JMO
You're right Tom, then if it doesn't clean up, he can move to the next step if he choses to do so.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
Great potential in that old blade. Look forward to the results.
I really want know what I will do until I have it in my hand. From the looks (looks can be deceiving) there is little hone wear and no serious pitting but until I have it in hand and see it close up I want know. this is the hard part the waiting game.
You love waiting. There are at least three threads about it. :-)
It's really the thrill of not knowing. It's like Christmas . You get the present's and then play with the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Well I received the razor the other day and it really looks better in hand than the photo. Next to the hinge pin though the scales are a little rough. there not cracked just a little rough to the touch. dry I believe. I looked for some nets foot oil with no luck but I found some mink oil at a leather shop. that's really nets foot oil with additives. I have the razor covered in it now wrapped up in wax paper and put away for a few days. when I get it back out I'll remove the blade and start the cleaning and polishing the blade and do some to the scales. I do have a question for some of the scale pros though. what type of dye do you use on horn. I want dye this one but I do have one I would like to darken. They were black at one time but now have turned a little brown. I know that the nets foot oil will make them look black for a whale but I would like to make it last longer.
The short answer is hair dye. It was recently discussed here a little http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...rn-scales.html
As soon as I set up to take photos again i'll take one of this one after the clean up. it turned out pretty good. I removed both pins and cleaned and polished the blade and scales. I added a brass washer on both sides the blade inside the scales and when I repined the razor I was able to reuse the same collars that came on it. it polished up pretty good and honed fairly nice. I shaved with it this morning and got a fairly close shave with out those big ole crocodile tears I use to get. I may keep this one.
