Big Haul

Stopped by the antiques store on my way to work the other day and found a whole bunch of stuff (was actually looking for a watch, didnt find one I liked) The straights were 10$ each and the 2 DEs were 10$ so a total of 90$ couldnt really refuse that offer. Just found out my work is not going to be as hectic as I thought this summer so I might have a chance of learning to restore some of them

Ive cleaned up the DEs (Gillette slim adjustables) and used the shorty this morning. First time Ive cut myslef with a DE, seems I have to figure out how the adjustable ones work. Clean shave though.

Attachment 232296

Ok left to right top to bottom they are:
1: Drdescher + Behar New York (says 42 France on other side of tang) 4/8 near wedge
2. The best razor (seriously it says that on the tang) 5/8 hollow ground
3. The Torrey Razor co Worcester Mas. On the blade is etched OUR 136 (very faint) 5/8 hollow ground
4. Jospeh Rodgers + Sons Sheffield 6/8 full wedge
5. Geo Wosternholm + Son Sheffield. On the blade in gold is written Conqueror. 11/16 hollow ground
6. Norton Cooperative cutlery society Sheffield 11/16 hollow ground
7. H Boker (all it says on tang) 5/8 near wedge
8. H Boker Edelweiss 5/8 hollow ground

A friend at work who doesnt use a straight (he uses an electric razor, The HORROR) but is very interested in metal work has been bugging me to give him a razor to restore so I gave him the best razor, thought it would make him happy. We shall see how it goes.

Any info on these would be appreciated.
I know what the Edelweiss is but any ideas on the other Boker?

I can't give you any specifics but it does look like they are all quality straight razors. Depending on the condition of the blades all should hone up nicely and shave will.

With Gillette adjustable the lower the number set the milder the razor is because it is at the smallest blade gap. As you go up from #1 the blade gap keeps increasing till the max gap is reached at #9. A good starting point should be around #3. If the #3 setting works well you can slowly go up the scale till you hit a point where the setting is uncomfortable to shave at. At that point back off a number or two to gat a comfortable shave. Once your technique has improved you may or may not be able to go comfortably higher in the numbers.

With any DE/SE put the top cap flat on your face with the handle parallel to the floor. Next, rotate the handle downwards till you just feel the blade on your skin. The should be close to the right shaving angle for that particular razor. As always use "no" pressure on the razor and just guide around by the handle. The no pressure and right angle is critical if you want to shave with the wider blade gap settings and a sharp blade like a Feather or Gillette Silver Blue.

Bob

Nice finds!!
Using #3 on a Gillette is usually a safe starting point on an adjustable.
Make sure your friend doesn't heat up the metal of the blade to much during buffing or you could lose the temper of the steel

Well apparently I did something right because I did 1 stroke at #1 then did the rest at #3 :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AlanQ

Well apparently I did something right because I did 1 stroke at #1 then did the rest at #3 :)

---

It take a while to get used to using a Gillette adjustable. I learned to shave on a Gillette adjustable in the late 60s but it wasn't until I learned how to shave with a straight razor well that I could comfortably use a Gillette adjustable at #9 with a Feather blade. Seems I really did not understand the importance what no pressure meant and using the right angle all those years ago. Took straight razors to teach me how important those two things were in the art of shaving with any type of razor.

Bob

Yeah I understand. I think I was spoiled with my Maggard DE, from the first shave it went perfectly. I will try to learn how to use the adjustable as I liek the idea, In the meantime its only blood :)

Nice grab Alan. That Joseph Rodgers should become a very sweet shaver, once you dial the edge back in. But their all good shavers IMO.

I have a Joseph Rogers & sons. It is actually one of my best razors.

Yeah the Joseph Rodgers looks like the most interesting one to me. However I need to learn how to hone hollow grounds correctly before I start to play with a wedge. Trying to learn too many different things at once tends to result in not really learning anything and much frustration (Yes that is the voice of experience talking)

I must say the gold Conqueror on the blade of the Geo Wosternholm makes it look really interesting as well. This one I will try to do myself and try to save the gold plating, but will be a bit before I get to it. Probably start with the Norton as it looks the easiest at first glance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AlanQ

Yeah the Joseph Rodgers looks like the most interesting one to me. However I need to learn how to hone hollow grounds correctly before I start to play with a wedge. Trying to learn too many different things at once tends to result in not really learning anything and much frustration (Yes that is the voice of experience talking)

I must say the gold Conqueror on the blade of the Geo Wosternholm makes it look really interesting as well. This one I will try to do myself and try to save the gold plating, but will be a bit before I get to it. Probably start with the Norton as it looks the easiest at first glance.

---

How about a good pic of the Wosty. Would like to see how good the gold looks. Curious to how hard its going to be to tape n trace.

Nice score as long as the blades are good as Bob pointed out. There is a 1" George Brittain on eBay right now & when I saw it, I just had to click out of it. The person who polished it, polished it so much that I would be scared that it more than likely was overheated so it is probably no good! I always wanted one but I want one that has not been polished. I prefer some old ones to retain their vintage look but I also like some that have been customized because they might have had junk scales & a rusty blade, so those I don't mind.