Auction House Haul & Questions.

I walked away with a decent haul from the auction house this past week. I'm currently fighting insomnia, so I'll get into the post further after I wake up and start my day.

For now, I'd like to know if y'all can give me any information on this electric motor that seems to have been used as a single spindle grinding wheel?? I see the obvious rpm & hp ratings, and company name (Marathon Electric), but lack a background that would help me decipher the rest. I tried looking up the model number, no dice.

Pics.
Attachment 237231

Used the photo editor app to try and make it more readable.
Attachment 237232

P.S. There was no cord whatsoever included :banghead::banghead:! Buuuut.... it was just one of several tools on a table when the auctioneer said "No takers?? $2.50 for the whole table! Nothin? Alright, movin..." to which I piped up "YUP!" :shrug:

It is a 4.6 amp, 115 volt, 1 phase @ 60 hertz. Operating temperature 40 degrees c continuous. I think thats the room max temp. So it will run on 115 volt regular house voltage. The rest i'm not sure about. Does it have black, white and green wires or it may have a bare copper wire also? Good find.

Kinda knowledgeable about motors.

Information on insulation classes for motors
NEMA Insulation Classes

The motor is rated to run continuously at 40 deg C, Hacker7 is right about that. That is usually referring to the durability/operating life of the motor itself. Continuous is the highest or second highest rating.

I think the UL code refers to a fire code of some kind relating to electrical devices. But, I'm having trouble finding anything only relating to "M".

I can't really read the first few letters of the serial number, thankfully Marathon is still in business and should be able to help you.
.: Marathon Electric :.

Single phase motors typically need additional circuits for starting. I would imagine that that circuitry would be included inside of the motor itself, but you never know, especially since the company is over a hundred years old. Who knows how old it is and which decade's electrical code it complies. This might explain why there is no cord. Is there a plug of some kind?

Okay, got a picture of the connection space.
Attachment 237262

And related parts...
Attachment 237264

And the model number begins as "MOD7Q48S..."

I did try to look up the model number on the company's website, with no luck. IMO, the "MOD" part of "MOD7Q48..." is just an abbreviation of "Model". Maybe I should try again, but including "MOD" this time...?

More from that haul!...

The grinder is under these couple tools.
Attachment 237265

Pretty much all of the rest, though I packed the box rather well, making it difficult to see half of them. One of which is a (tiny) Dremmel engraver...
Attachment 237266

So, all that, plus the half a dozen DE safety razors that I left an absentee bid for the week before, and a couple things the wife bid on. I think I walked out the door having only spent about $30. :y

Maybe next week I should actually bid on an air compressor, should they have one, so I can run the pneumatic tools I just got as "collateral damage" with the items I actually wanted :roflmao.

I'm a little concerned about the splayed out wires below and between the blue and black wires.

Regardless, take it to a motor repair shop where they can check it over and install a cord for you. That way you won't electrocute yourself or burn down your house.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crawler

Okay, got a picture of the connection space.
Attachment 237262

And related parts...
Attachment 237264

And the model number begins as "MOD7Q48S..."

I did try to look up the model number on the company's website, with no luck. IMO, the "MOD" part of "MOD7Q48..." is just an abbreviation of "Model". Maybe I should try again, but including "MOD" this time...?

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Electric motors, if reversible, will also have a diagram of the connections in that spot usually on the cover.
That was a little off subject but some helpful information. If you can't wire it yourself then do like Utopian said & take it to a shop.

After failing once again to find info on the company's website, I sent an email to the department such requests are directed to in the FAQ's. It's after business hours, so I won't hear from them until tomorrow at the soonest.

Good tip about the wiring diagram.
Attachment 237274

And the "mess of wires" is just power transmission. There are copper connectors where you hardwire a power cord.

Tried getting shots following the wires inside...
Attachment 237276

Attachment 237277

Attachment 237278

If I can't get it operational on my own (well, with the help of the community here :D ), and in a non-life threatening way, I'll take it to work with me one week. The maintenance crew at the plant has to deal with small motors similar to this one all the time. They may not be the last stop, but they are my first stop in professional "fixin stuff" advice. My wacky ideas entertain them, so they don't mind giving me a few minutes of their time :rofl2:

I almost forgot! Here are some pics of the safety razors I got. I'd say their condition ranges from "needs cleaned" to "missing/broken pieces". I think they are all caked in grime, cobwebs, and the previous owner's stubble! Certainly gonna mix up a fresh jar of Barbercide before I do anything with them.

Attachment 237319

Attachment 237320

Attachment 237321

Attachment 237322

Oh, and that Dremel I mentioned, FWIW. Model 290.
Attachment 237323

It looks like there's some cord and maybe a piece of burlap in pics 1&3 from post #8...

You'll probably want to try to flush out any oil inside of the motor, who knows how long it has been sitting in there.

Hopefully that bearing is still good and not seized, that would be a bummer. Maybe start the motor from a safe distance just to be sure...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crawler

After failing once again to find info on the company's website, I sent an email to the department such requests are directed to in the FAQ's. It's after business hours, so I won't hear from them until tomorrow at the soonest.

Good tip about the wiring diagram.
Attachment 237274

And the "mess of wires" is just power transmission. There are copper connectors where you hardwire a power cord.

Tried getting shots following the wires inside...
Attachment 237276

Attachment 237277

Attachment 237278

If I can't get it operational on my own (well, with the help of the community here :D ), and in a non-life threatening way, I'll take it to work with me one week. The maintenance crew at the plant has to deal with small motors similar to this one all the time. They may not be the last stop, but they are my first stop in professional "fixin stuff" advice. My wacky ideas entertain them, so they don't mind giving me a few minutes of their time :rofl2:

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Pretty simple connections, there. Label tells all. Get a 3-wire cord, figure out which direction you want it to turn and hook the internal and external wires up as-stated on the back label.
Establish your ground to the motor using one of the cover screws. There is a cutout to run the green wire out and to the screw.
Put the thing in a vise or clamp it to the workbench, else it may go rolling over as you plug it in.
This type of motor has a centrifical starter circuit under that board inside.

Plug the joker in!

Oh! That Dremel is a vibrating engraver. Now you can engrave 'Maestro Crawler' on your razors!
:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Pretty simple connections, there. Label tells all. Get a 3-wire cord, figure out which direction you want it to turn and hook the internal and external wires up as-stated on the back label.
Establish your ground to the motor using one of the cover screws. There is a cutout to run the green wire out and to the screw.
Put the thing in a vise or clamp it to the workbench, else it may go rolling over as you plug it in.
This type of motor has a centrifical starter circuit under that board inside.

Plug the joker in!

Oh! That Dremel is a vibrating engraver. Now you can engrave 'Maestro Crawler' on your razors!
:)

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It looks like the supplied blue & black wires determine direction and the power cord is set up the same regardless of direction?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinnermint

It looks like the supplied blue & black wires determine direction and the power cord is set up the same regardless of direction?

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Exactly! It is set up for clockwise revolution as it is in your pics. If you desire CCW, just reverse the black and blue.
On your cord, put black on #1, white on #2, green grounded to cover screw.

For some reason I read post #11 to orient the power wires according to the direction you wanted. Skimming is not the best technique for communication.... lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinnermint

For some reason I read post #11 to orient the power wires according to the direction you wanted. Skimming is not the best technique for communication.... lol

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"Pretty simple connections, there. Label tells all. Get a 3-wire cord, figure out which direction you want it to turn and hook the internal and external wires up as-stated on the back label."

I could have broken that down better.
"Figure out which direction you want it to turn and hook the internal wires (Black and Blue) up as-stated on the back label.
Get a 3-wire cord, and hook the external wires (Black, white, and green) up as-stated on the back label." (With green being grounded to the motor frame at the cover screw) That! :D

Well, not much in the way of shaving paraphernalia this week. The closest thing was what's left of an old strop that may have not even been for razors. Due to it's condition, and its unknowns, I didn't want to offer the auction house's minimum bid of $2.50 when I noticed it last week. The wife had similar feelings towards a lamp this week: "pfft. Maybe at $2.50, but meh!" So I got 'em to bundle the two for the minimum bid :deal:! SWMBO will remake the lamp for some sort of "up-cycle" thing, and I've got an almost strop to play with while I'm honing!

Attachment 237519
Sure ain't much to look at!
Attachment 237520

Attachment 237521
Maybe I'm tired, but I can't quite make out the name I found underneath the hanging hardware?
Attachment 237522

Thanks for tuning in!

I figured it out!!! It reads "High Quality". At one point, I thought there was also a faded stamp mark of some sort on the handle, but that could just be the staining/discoloration :shrug:.

Finally got a response to my request for information and/or an owner's manual for the motor...

Quote:

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Chris,
This motor was built prior to 1972, and with the "MOD" at the beginning of the model number, this means the motor was built as a MOD and one time build. We are unable to support this motor in any engineering sense. I am sorry for the inconvenience.

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That kinda bites. Anyone know where I'd pick up a power cord for this thing?

Pfffft, if it was a mod, would most likely have been a standard motor modified to customer's specs. This shouldn't be to difficult for them to research some information, since they probably have a nearly identical model. They probably didn't because you are just looking for information and not looking to replace it. However, they may have a life cycle to old prints/documents and are just burning old prints. Not really common to my knowledge. All companies I have dealt with are borderline packrats, especially the engineering department. Fun fact, I got to go through documents from a crane company that were over 100 years old. Boring, but fascinating. Another fun fact that I didn't remember until now, my brain is like a terribly organized file cabinet, old motors had a significant portion of insulation from asbestos. This is ***possibly*** not an issue if there is no damage to anything inside, but it does raise my hackles from an overly conservative safety stand point. Not that this was related to the crane company's documents on the stators that they wound themselves and were eventually sued for..... *WINK*

Which reminds me that the motor company might be legally required to disclose any information or documents on products containing asbestos....

Yea, from the response, I get the impression that the person at the receiving end of my e-mail just broke down the model number in order to establish whether or not company policy required them to do any work.

I agree with what you said about it probably is one of their regular models with a slight customer requested tweak. And you know they've got the manuals squirreled away somewhere! Due to it being "made before 1972", it may not be digitized, but they've got a copy somewhere.

According to Wikipedia, Asbestos reached peak production in the U.S. in '73. I think I owe them a reply e-mail... That is not a material I want to have to worry about!

They *might*, some companies have just pitched all the old stuff and say "aww, that's too bad. Buy a new one and we'll help you all you want."

And it was in everything. It's a great material, just too bad it kills people... It's for that reason, the moment you mention it, you'll get a heck of a lot more attention.

Indeed, I remember something I saw on The History channel or something like that about either insulation or fire resistance. Asbestos seemed "second to none" in those regards of materials that did both jobs as a single material. Too bad it is such a health hazard lol.

Here is the e-mail I just sent off. Hopefully I can hear back in less than a business week this time...

Quote:

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Dear Sean,
Thank you for your response, though it was thin on answers. Having been manufactured "prior to 1972", I understand if the manuals may have not been digitized. As the pictures show, the motor has been well cared for, and the bearing spins easily with a two-fingered flick of the wrist. If you cannot provide me with a user manual, I can get by. But there are other details that require attention.

This motor is older than I, and manufacturing standards & practices were different in that day & age. I need to know if this motor contains any amount of Asbestos? According to Wikipedia, Asbestos reached peak production in the U.S. in '73 (and is still not outright banned, but restricted & regulated). Considering the health implications, I put this information at a rather high priority.

Sincerely,
Chris R.

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Which reminds me: one person mentioned concern over the state of the bearing. It spins 'smooth as silk.

Probably won't get a response until Thurs or Fri, especially with Memorial Day.

That's good to hear, a seized bearing isn't the end of the world to deal with, but probably a heck of a lot more than you bargained for and would cost you some extra money. And more headaches, if they have no information on that motor...

Motor and brackets look to me as an AC/heater blower motor.

Tom's advice on wiring is as good as it's gonna get.

It is my understanding that: a DC motor is a DC motor. So long as they can handle the load, and the circuit they are on can handle the motor, you just have to worry about making the right connections :shrug:. Though I freely admit to no professional background in engineering :D.

That being said, it was crammed (snugly placed) into a small box with a Craftsman grinding wheel (that fits perfectly onto the shaft), plus a couple of other attachments.

I don't know why, for it's purported age, it is in such good condition. Even the grinding wheel is "like new" with the paper label still intact. It does suck that there is no cord.

This might not be the best idea, but an extension cord might work. The only reason why it would not work is if the copper wire isn't the correct gage. However, this motor runs on household powers. But, this isn't a dc motor btw. That's why you can power it direct to an outlet. This motor could be a repurposed motor, what size is the grinding wheel?

I don't know off the top of my head; somewhere between 4" and 6". I'll check when I get home from work. My method of inspection when I first get something in my hands starts with "eyeballing" the item for general quality, and I just spiral inward from there, looking in closer detail, at smaller parts etc. That is, until I spot something that requires correction. In this case, that be a power cord. Until I get one, this thing is just a (very) heavy paperweight with a spinny bit on the end lol.

I shot the breeze with a maintenance man today, showed him a few pics of the motor, he pointed out the oiler holes for the sleeve bearings that I'd already noticed. I took the opportunity to confirm the details of "how" to oil it lol. He says: "Yeah. If its got those, you know it's old." Me: "Well, for its age, it is like new. And what a price! :D"

He mentioned using a computer power cord for it. I assume, as with an extension cord, it would just be a matter of cannibalizing the female end. Either way, I'm gonna need to dig through my box 'o cables at home to see how many spares I have that are grounded. Fun stuff.

You got it! Best of luck!

The grinding wheel is 6" x 3/4". And I believe the shank on the motor is 1/2" diameter. Incidentally, I've got a whole mess of pulley wheels that will already fit it!

Most of what was in the box when I scooped it up...
Attachment 237567
(Not pictured: a sanding disk "backing plate" roughly 7" & an unused rough grit disk of sand paper.)

Wheel...
Attachment 237568

Also, maybe I should see if this Dayton company still exists?...
Attachment 237569

Attachment 237570

As it seems to be from a supplier, and not the manufacturer, this still falls short of being an actual operator's manual of any kind. To me, anyway.