My first traditional straight razor

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I present to the SRP community my Amazon straight razor set up. The razor is a carbon steel 6/8 round tip by Cutthroat Gents. The strop is from Illinois Strop Co. model 127 and the stone is from Bearmoo and is a 3000/8000 grit water stone. I bought these items over a month ago and originally was saving them for my birthday but I just could not wait. Also the the chromium oxide bar is from Dialux. I’m really excited to get this razor shave ready.

I forgot to mention I scored all these items on Amazon with free shipping for under $90 for everything.

You may want to seek out a member near you for some one on one guidance.

I know its not your first post but welcome.

If you have never honed a straight razor before you might be in for a few surprises, unpleasant one at that. It is very difficult to learn to shave well with a straight razor and at the same time learn hoe to hone one to shave ready. Trust me, I went that route.

The razor you bought I do not recognize the brand so do not know the quality of it. It is best to buy a reputable brand from a retailer that hones them to shave ready before sending out.

The strop I recognize as one that is well regarded. The problem with learning to strop a razor is that you will likely cut and nick the strop before getting stropping down pat. Worst case scenario is that you ruin the strop or at least will have to learn how to repair nicks to keep it serviceable.

Good luck with your journey and be sure to ask questions if you have any problems.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

If you have never honed a straight razor before you might be in for a few surprises, unpleasant one at that. It is very difficult to learn to shave well with a straight razor and at the same time learn hoe to hone one to shave ready. Trust me, I went that route.

The razor you bought I do not recognize the brand so do not know the quality of it. It is best to buy a reputable brand from a retailer that hones them to shave ready before sending out.

The strop I recognize as one that is well regarded. The problem with learning to strop a razor is that you will likely cut and nick the strop before getting stropping down pat. Worst case scenario is that you ruin the strop or at least will have to learn how to repair nicks to keep it serviceable.

Good luck with your journey and be sure to ask questions if you have any problems.

Bob

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Thanks for the advice Bob. I’ve watched many videos by Lynn Abrams and Geofatboy if or when I have any problems or questions I’ll be sure to ask for advice. Cutthroat Gents is a newer company in the straight razor world but we’re fairly well liked.

You have received some good advice. I would definitely +1 on the getting it professionally honed before you put it to your face.

I understand the impatience, and frankly you have done better than me to wait a month, but you will definitely benefit from having it done.

As Bob has said you can go down the route of learning to hone at the same time as learning to shave, but for me one thing at a time helped a lot.

You have done the right thing with the videos, in addition the library and beginners sections on this site are invaluable, you should check them out too.

Good luck and enjoy.

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Originally Posted by Porl

You have received some good advice. I would definitely +1 on the getting it professionally honed before you put it to your face.

I understand the impatience, and frankly you have done better than me to wait a month, but you will definitely benefit from having it done.

As Bob has said you can go down the route of learning to hone at the same time as learning to shave, but for me one thing at a time helped a lot.

You have done the right thing with the videos, in addition the library and beginners sections on this site are invaluable, you should check them out too.

Good luck and enjoy.

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I’ve been shaving with a shavette since May this year. I know shavette and traditional straight razor are very different beasts to learn how to master. I’m in no rush to shave with my new straight razor. From what I’ve learned so far in my research is when honing use only the weight of the blade nothing more. I’ve also learned about the importance of rolling the razor on its spine wether I’m honing or stropping. I’ve learned when honing lead with the blade edge; when stropping lead with the spine.

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

Thanks for the advice Bob. I’ve watched many videos by Lynn Abrams and Geofatboy if or when I have any problems or questions I’ll be sure to ask for advice. Cutthroat Gents is a newer company in the straight razor world but we’re fairly well liked.

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I watched those vids too when starting to hone and still wondered why I was not getting a shave ready razor at the start. Nothing wrong with the vids just my total lack of experience in honing razors on my part and how to apply what I was seeing and hearing.

Are you the owner of Cutthroat Gents?

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

I watched those vids too when starting to hone and still wondered why I was not getting a shave ready razor at the start. Nothing wrong with the vids just my total lack of experience in honing razors on my part and how to apply what I was seeing and hearing.

Are you the owner of Cutthroat Gents?

Bob

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Nope. Cutthroat Gents is run by a guy named Jonathan Garcia in California. Sorry for the confusion.

Also, I don’t plan on taking the razor to my face until it can not only shave a patch of hair off my arm well; but also be able to cut arm hairs at mid level without touching my my skin.

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

Also, I don’t plan on taking the razor to my face until it can not only shave a patch of hair off my arm well; but also be able to cut arm hairs at mid level without touching my my skin.

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OK, let us know how you make out.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

OK, let us know how you make out.

Bob

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Will do. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

I just did an initial test spot shave on my arm without honing or stropping. It got some hairs off on the skin but barely cuts them midway. Now I’m thinking perhaps I should do a refresher on my razor. I’m thinking the following laps per level.
Linen side with cromox lightly added to it - 10 laps
Clean linen side - 20 laps
Smooth leather side - 40 laps
I may try this method tomorrow and then do the arm hair test again to see how it goes. I’ll keep everyone updated on my progress.

Look up calibrating the HHT same applies to arm hair. Never in a million years will a razor cut mid shaft on my arm hair, DE blades don't either. Edge tests require some experience and comparisons in order for them to have real meaning.

And I am uncertain of the grit of your stone as well. But usually people start at a bit rougher of a stone for setting of edge and work their way through many progressions of stones to a very fine 8k or higher stone, and than strop for a nice edge. And yea just practice and get the feel for your technique and laying a good edge. And I'm sure you know, but you want to make sure your edge angle is just one angle and not a few different degrees leading into each other as well. This will not work well as it is giving it different shave edge degrees. You can almost see a good edge when it's on by the depth, smoothness, and angle of it. As well as if it's evenly touching the tip, or if the edge is still thick and not meeting the new angle laid. But I have yet to start properly honing, this is just my experience with knives. I am hoping to begin very soon . All in due time I suppose. But I do look forward to it.

I just honed and stropped my new razor and it shaves like a dream on my arm. I may strop it a little more tomorrow morning before I test it out again on my arm then start with only my cheeks to start off with.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

Look up calibrating the HHT same applies to arm hair. Never in a million years will a razor cut mid shaft on my arm hair, DE blades don't either. Edge tests require some experience and comparisons in order for them to have real meaning.

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Just goes to show how subjective/objective this hobby is. I can top arm hair mid shaft on a 1k with some razors, no probs. HHT from my head wont play nice even if I was to take a running swipe at it!

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

Also, I don’t plan on taking the razor to my face until it can not only shave a patch of hair off my arm well; but also be able to cut arm hairs at mid level without touching my my skin.

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

I just honed and stropped my new razor and it shaves like a dream on my arm. I may strop it a little more tomorrow morning before I test it out again on my arm then start with only my cheeks to start off with.

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As Rezdog said it can take some calibration to see what tests mean to you. Above all else the shave test is the only one that really matters.
Shaving just your cheeks is a good idea to start off.

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

I just honed and stropped my new razor and it shaves like a dream on my arm. I may strop it a little more tomorrow morning before I test it out again on my arm then start with only my cheeks to start off with.

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Welcome to SRP. Please don't take what I'm about to say the wrong way. I believe you are setting yourself up for failure. Shaving with a straight razor is a skill that requires time patience and practice. Honing a straight razor is a completely different skill that requires even more time patience and practice. It took me months to learn how to consistently shave well with a straight razor and it took me a couple years to learn how to consistently put a good edge on one.

I'm not familiar with the brand of razor that you purchased, but it has all the hallmarks of a cheap Pakistani blade that somebody etched their logo on. I have yet to see a $20 blade from Amazon that is actually worth $20. It would probably be a chore for a very experienced honer to put a good edge on it, if it will even take a good edge. I would recommend getting something that you know is a quality blade that's 100% shave ready.

Like I said before, I'm not trying to discourage you. I'm trying to save you a lot of time and frustration. Feel free to send me a PM and I will be more than happy to get you set up with a shave ready razor.

Thank you for the wise advice BeJay. I think I will hold off on shaving the Cutthroat Gents razor until I find an actual shave ready one from a reputable brand and dealer. I’ll keep you in mind for future reference.

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Originally Posted by BeJay

Welcome to SRP. Please don't take what I'm about to say the wrong way. I believe you are setting yourself up for failure. Shaving with a straight razor is a skill that requires time patience and practice. Honing a straight razor is a completely different skill that requires even more time patience and practice. It took me months to learn how to consistently shave well with a straight razor and it took me a couple years to learn how to consistently put a good edge on one.

I'm not familiar with the brand of razor that you purchased, but it has all the hallmarks of a cheap Pakistani blade that somebody etched their logo on. I have yet to see a $20 blade from Amazon that is actually worth $20. It would probably be a chore for a very experienced honer to put a good edge on it, if it will even take a good edge. I would recommend getting something that you know is a quality blade that's 100% shave ready.

Like I said before, I'm not trying to discourage you. I'm trying to save you a lot of time and frustration. Feel free to send me a PM and I will be more than happy to get you set up with a shave ready razor.

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I'll have to +1 this. I do hope you are successful with your first razor and hone work though. Been SR shaving occasionally for a while and I'm still learning (my face doesn't feel like ground beef afterwards!) I found that having two of my razors honed by a professional (@gssixgun) also helped because it gave me a standard to compare my own honing efforts to. If you don't have a cheap jeweler's loupe it will really help since you can actually see how the edge in changing

You could buy one shave ready, or there are real bargains on high quality razors now with the current market a honemeister here could get ready for you. I've been out of the SR game for a few years and was surprised to see what some razors are selling for now.

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Originally Posted by JP5

I'll have to +1 this. I do hope you are successful with your first razor and hone work though. Been SR shaving occasionally for a while and I'm still learning (my face doesn't feel like ground beef afterwards!) I found that having two of my razors honed by a professional (@gssixgun) also helped because it gave me a standard to compare my own honing efforts to. If you don't have a cheap jeweler's loupe it will really help since you can actually see how the edge in changing

You could buy one shave ready, or there are real bargains on high quality razors now with the current market a honemeister here could get ready for you. I've been out of the SR game for a few years and was surprised to see what some razors are selling for now.

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Thanks for the advice. I’ll later invest in a jewelers loupe but will further work on my razor to the point that it can not only shave arm hairs as it can now; but to the point it will be able to shave me safely. In the meantime I’ll look into quality razors at an affordable price. When the time comes for the initial cheek shave, if I see any blood I will stop immediately and use my safety razor instead.

A loupe is very inexpensive, but VERY useful. I'd recommend one before you try to hone anything.
It also lets you inspect your razors for micro chips, which will cause you issues with your shaves smoothness

Check out the B/S/T area here on the forum. Quality razors that are really shave ready.

The advice given to you already is very good, we're here to help you

I just found a family member that had a jewelers loupe. I looked at my blade with it as did my relative who sharpens knives professionally. She says that my razors edge is perfectly even compared to some of her more expensive knives.

Yeah I haven't heard of that brand razor.
You could try shaving just your cheek. Will be easy to tell how good the edge is if you are used to a shavette.
There are always very fair priced beginner razors in the classifieds here.
General advice is learn to strop and shave before attempting to hone. Main thing is don't give up if the razor turns out to be a dud.

Sent from a moto x far far away

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Originally Posted by AngeloAmerico

I just found a family member that had a jewelers loupe. I looked at my blade with it as did my relative who sharpens knives professionally. She says that my razors edge is perfectly even compared to some of her more expensive knives.

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What you look for in a knife edge is not necessarily the same as for a razor's edge.

Bob

+1 to this ^^^

Yup. If you think you have it, have with it and tell us how she does. If it snags and it painful, it's not shave worthy yet. Why hone it and contest it's ready if you're not going to try it? Give it a whirl and let us know how it feels. Oh and also with the cheaper blades, quite often the edge does not last nearly as long. But ya never know. Might be good just with a cheap company trying to get off their feet. But if they are mass produced for cheap, chances are they are garbage steel. But ya never know:gl:

I might get flak for this...

You just have to practice. I mean, hone that sucker. Try it on your face. Learn what a tug feels like. Learn what a cut feels like. Put it back on the stones, give it more attention, then try again. Sounds like you watch a lot of tutorials— thats great. Soon enough, your hone job will give a smooth shave.

Sure, it might be worth having a honemeister tune it for you first, just so you “know what it feels like.” But most of us aren’t honemeisters and don’t want to send razors across the country every week. You have to be capable and satisfied with your hones if you plan on getting into this hobby as a collector.

For me, a shave is a shave. I use 400, 800, and 1500 grit sandpaper, stripped, mounted, and loaded with steel to simulate higher grits. My razors pop hair and shave close. But they won’t split a hanging hair— becuase they don’t need to. The time isnt worth it to me. Most razors are high enough quality to hone and shave. You will find a plethora of members who have honed and shaved with the chinese gold dollar and pakistani blades (me included). There is a big margin between shaveable and what honemeisters achieve.

There are two classes of SR collectors— those who chase the “perfect shave,” and those who are in it for the history. Both have smooth faces.

Don’t let anyone make you take this too seriously. It should be fun, and -anyone- can hone. :)


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:aargh::aargh::aargh::aargh:

I'm with you BeJay.
And a violin is just a box with strings on it.

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Originally Posted by GeoID

I might get flak for this...

You just have to practice. I mean, hone that sucker. Try it on your face. Learn what a tug feels like. Learn what a cut feels like. Put it back on the stones, give it more attention, then try again. Sounds like you watch a lot of tutorials— thats great. Soon enough, your hone job will give a smooth shave.

Sure, it might be worth having a honemeister tune it for you first, just so you “know what it feels like.” But most of us aren’t honemeisters and don’t want to send razors across the country every week. You have to be capable and satisfied with your hones if you plan on getting into this hobby as a collector.

For me, a shave is a shave. I use 400, 800, and 1500 grit sandpaper, stripped, mounted, and loaded with steel to simulate higher grits. My razors pop hair and shave close. But they won’t split a hanging hair— becuase they don’t need to. The time isnt worth it to me. Most razors are high enough quality to hone and shave. You will find a plethora of members who have honed and shaved with the chinese gold dollar and pakistani blades (me included). There is a big margin between shaveable and what honemeisters achieve.

There are two classes of SR collectors— those who chase the “perfect shave,” and those who are in it for the history. Both have smooth faces.

Don’t let anyone make you take this too seriously. It should be fun, and -anyone- can hone. :)


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Your sandpaper idea sounds intriguing to say the least, tell me more.
Anyone can hone, it is true. Some pick it up fast, some don't.

Part of the problem is choice of razor, and I have seen a bunch of new members buy first and ask questions later. They get discouraged and are only here for a short time.

The trouble with the likes of these cheap razors on ebay and similar sites is the majority of them won't take or keep an edge. The reviews for that razor on Amazon are on average not bad, a bit hit and miss. Much like a gold dollar. That is why I suggested trying it on the cheek.

$20 is a cheap razor,but not if it won't shave you. All of a sudden it is an expensive letter opener. There are often good beginner razors in the classifieds here between $20 and $50 that are shave ready.

"There are two classes of SR collectors— those who chase the “perfect shave,” and those who are in it for the history. Both have smooth faces.".........:thinking:

If anyone is sending their razor across the country every week to be honed, there is obviously a problem with their stropping technique.

I just finished shaving today. On my cheeks on the first pass I used my new razor. For the rest of the first, and entirety of second and third passes I used a safety razor. No blood was spilled and my cheeks are BBS. Here’s a picture.
Attachment 275257

Looks like you are off to a good start then. Keep going and see where you wind up.

Bob

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Originally Posted by Grazor

Your sandpaper idea sounds intriguing to say the least, tell me more.
Anyone can hone, it is true. Some pick it up fast, some don't.

Part of the problem is choice of razor, and I have seen a bunch of new members buy first and ask questions later. They get discouraged and are only here for a short time.

The trouble with the likes of these cheap razors on ebay and similar sites is the majority of them won't take or keep an edge. The reviews for that razor on Amazon are on average not bad, a bit hit and miss. Much like a gold dollar. That is why I suggested trying it on the cheek.

$20 is a cheap razor,but not if it won't shave you. All of a sudden it is an expensive letter opener. There are often good beginner razors in the classifieds here between $20 and $50 that are shave ready.

"There are two classes of SR collectors— those who chase the “perfect shave,” and those who are in it for the history. Both have smooth faces.".........:thinking:

If anyone is sending their razor across the country every week to be honed, there is obviously a problem with their stropping technique.

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I can understand what you mean with the cheap amazon deal— it will be easier with a good quality used one from the forum. If he had more than one, this cheapo will still be great to practice honing strokes and such. If he can get this one sharp he can get anything sharp (If it is indeed cruddy).

By shipping across the country every week, I mean that some members have a new razor for the collection every week or two or three that they need honed. Its easier and cheaper to just take care of those yourself. In my opinion :)

The sandpaper idea is easy.

Depending on how much hone wear you are correcting, pick a grit, cut it out into the shape of a stone (longer, if you’d prefer), tape both ends taut over a piece of flat, hard, wood (edge of paper to edge of the wood), then go to town normally. Spine tape if you’d like. The X, circle, whatever stroke you like. Pressure and pressure balance still matters.

You might think you need to buy an expensive piece of 3000 grit, but 1500 grit will “load” with use. The steel shavings fill in the gritty pores and effectively raise it up to more like 6000 grit (I can see hard glare reflections in the steely paper). Takes 30 minutes max. Good hollows can be 10 min or less, easy.

Gotta find alternatives to ye olde belgian blue stones when in college.

Cheers

B


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Originally Posted by GeoID

I can understand what you mean with the cheap amazon deal— it will be easier with a good quality used one from the forum. If he had more than one, this cheapo will still be great to practice honing strokes and such. If he can get this one sharp he can get anything sharp (If it is indeed cruddy).

By shipping across the country every week, I mean that some members have a new razor for the collection every week or two or three that they need honed. Its easier and cheaper to just take care of those yourself. In my opinion :)

The sandpaper idea is easy.

Depending on how much hone wear you are correcting, pick a grit, cut it out into the shape of a stone (longer, if you’d prefer), tape both ends taut over a piece of flat, hard, wood (edge of paper to edge of the wood), then go to town normally. Spine tape if you’d like. The X, circle, whatever stroke you like. Pressure and pressure balance still matters.

You might think you need to buy an expensive piece of 3000 grit, but 1500 grit will “load” with use. The steel shavings fill in the gritty pores and effectively raise it up to more like 6000 grit (I can see hard glare reflections in the steely paper). Takes 30 minutes max. Good hollows can be 10 min or less, easy.

Gotta find alternatives to ye olde belgian blue stones when in college.

Cheers

B


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Well, you could splash out and get some lapping film. Glorified sandpaper, does a good job. No loading required...

Id be hesitant to use wet n dry sandpaper on my razors, it kicks out a lot of grit which could scratch a bevel.
Ive used wet n dry with kitchen knives and chisels loads of time but im not putting those on my fizzogg.
As grazor said lapping film is cheap and does the job admirably.