will try to make the best of it though...:cryAttachment 295137
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will try to make the best of it though...:cryAttachment 295137
We all share your pain...
Sad, but there is still a lot of blade there on which to set a new bevel after getting rid of the scars.
The blade is totally salvagable. With some 220 wet/dry sandpaper to clean the damage (rough stuff) then a progression up to 1200 grit (finish) you will be amazed at what you can do and save this fine blade. Set the bevel and hone and strop. It will be just like new. Good luck to you!
Thank you very much gentlemen
The width is a tad over 7/8"
Damage goes up to 7/8"
Wld you advise to bread knifing the blade (watched the Youtube vids by Gssixgun ) ?
Cheers
Bart
That is exactly what I had to do with a Puma with a chip in the blade.
That gssixgun video was excellent guidance for me.
BEFORE
Attachment 295138
AFTER
Attachment 295139
I'd say go by Glem vid on repairing. It's good info. Then after you got that corrected, Fix the stabilizer as it will be too long and in the way of the blade. After all that, you should be good for cleaning and honing.
Agreed - always a shame to see these beauties injured.
But "breadknife" that razor, and it can be saved, and you will resurrect it to new life.....:-)
It is a good thing this is a 7/8"+ blade. Even if you have to go down as far as 13/16", you will still have plenty of steel remaining. Don't forget to post photos of this after the restoration; we love photos. :gl:
Glen's most recent video demonstrating chip repair:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlNVWX2QIZo
No problem. Breadknife the edge til chips are gone. Set bevel a d hone.
You'll also need to address that stabiliser once the chips are gone.
Dear gentlemen
thanks for all the comments and advise
so far so good I guess
did some breadknifing but not quite there yet I'd say... still a solid 7/8" though
the blokes at the bodyshop gave it a rub today so it turned out quite 'shiny'
wonder if I'll have to go for a straight edge or slightly smiling edge ?Attachment 295227
what would you guys advise please ?
Cheers , Bart
I think a straight edge is very possible. Its looking much better already.
Looks much better already. Nice work.
Ideally the edge should follow the contour of the spine but it's your razor.Quote:
Originally Posted by bartds
This statement gave me pause. Are these blokes used to polishing thin sections of hardened steel? Do they know anything at all about tempering temps and the possibility of easily overheating the blade?Quote:
Originally Posted by bartds
Gotta say that crossed my mind too :oQuote:
Originally Posted by bluesman7
Well first of all the sections aren't that thin really - it's a hollow allright but not that 'extra' hollow thin... all is done by hand on the lower grits (guess they started at 600 wet) and went up to 1500 wet (600-800-1000-1200-1500) - then they move over to the pads (3000 wet) on a Festo (non rotating polishing device thus not producing heath) and finally on the 6000 pad wet - time spent on the pads is very short also...
Attachment 295299
Those trizact pads are great. I've used them a lot. Just need to take care not to round off straight lines with them as they are slightly padded. Good for polishing scales btw.
OK bevel's here -more or less- (no tape) but that heel is still a p.i.t.a. - took it to the stones ( coticule / la lorraine / thuri / la lune) - super sharp edge from toe up to halfway the blade ...
This is where I am stuck... Should I file down the heel ? Any advise is very welcome.
Cheers
BartAttachment 295342
Yes I think I mentioned that before. If you honed it without addressing the heel it will sharpen at the front & not the heel so much as the stabiliser will lift the heel & create the wrong geometry for the bevel.
Both the links I gave you have instructions.
