Antique store WB score...

I am still a new at this, in fact haven't shaved with a straight yet but will soon especially after finding these two at an antique store over the weekend. I have been reading and paying attention to what you guys say.

After I saw the tag in the case all I could read was WA --- Bu. (the coffin was in the way)

getting anxious as she is opening the case.

See the tag Wade and Butcher $30.00. cool.

The coffin is thick.

Two Wade in Butchers for $30.00

NICE.

Not without their problems... They are chipped, both of them.

I am hoping that the smaller can be honed, and I am assuming the larger ground out, right? I have seen worse turned into beauties in the restore section. Any advice?

Thanks.
Eric

Best advice I can offer, if you're new to restorations, is to send these out to one of the kind members who do restorations and have them restore it (or at least restore the edge) - not something to be tackled by a newbie.

Nice scores - they will turn into class A shavers once properly restored.

Also, keep the coffin - very desirable!

Good luck,

Mark

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Originally Posted by Milton Man

Best advice I can offer, if you're new to restorations, is to send these out to one of the kind members who do restorations and have them restore it (or at least restore the edge) - not something to be tackled by a newbie.

Nice scores - they will turn into class A shavers once properly restored.

Also, keep the coffin - very desirable!

Good luck,

Mark

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They both look like the can Honed out.I honed some like the big one out.Just takes time and a lot of elbow grease.grinding wastes too much metal.VERY VERY NICE SCORE!!!!!!!!:tu

I've honed out chips like that! Thats a nice find there!!

tape the spine and use low grit (150 or even lower) hone. at least there's no shoulder.

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Originally Posted by gugi

tape the spine and use low grit (150 or even lower) hone. at least there's no shoulder.

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Your kidding...right? I used a 1000 grit stone, and the lowest grit on any straight, with the exception of a wedge, is 800!

nope :) no joke
the metal around the chip has got to go, so the only difference, whether you use a 150 grit hone or 12000 grit one to do the job is the time it takes.
The problem with using low grit hone is that the teeth they may cause microchipping but if the steel is decent (as I suspect it is on a w&b) and you use light touch it's not an issue. Plus it's a wedge and the edge is quite resilient.
Another way to look at it is - this chip is already equivalent to being made by a grit 0.001 hone or something, so your honing progression can start quite coarsely - it only makes it efficient.

Oh, yes I've used these low grit hones - quite fun :)


Edit: As a matter of fact I've got a frameback with big old chip on it - I'll take pictures of it and I'll try to time/count the laps on various grits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gugi

nope :) no joke
the metal around the chip has got to go, so the only difference, whether you use a 150 grit hone or 12000 grit one to do the job is the time it takes.
The problem with using low grit hone is that the teeth they may cause microchipping but if the steel is decent (as I suspect it is on a w&b) and you use light touch it's not an issue. Plus it's a wedge and the edge is quite resilient.
Another way to look at it is - this chip is already equivalent to being made by a grit 0.001 hone or something, so your honing progression can start quite coarsely - it only makes it efficient.

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If it was a wedge I would agree to some degree, but I own three of those and they are definitely hollow ground!

yeah it's certainly hollowed, but it doesn't look too thin. of course i've got none of them, and can't see the front profile (just inferring from the back profile and the hollowing). in any case it's not my razor, but if it were i suspect that i may take it all the way down to 150. Even at 150 it'll take no less than 10 minutes to get out the chip, at least the way i hone. you can speed up honing quite a bit by using pressure, but i'm pretty bad creating uniform pressure and find that i get best results if i use no pressure whatsoever.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gugi

yeah it's certainly hollowed, but it doesn't look too thin. of course i've got none of them, and can't see the front profile (just inferring from the back profile and the hollowing). in any case it's not my razor, but if it were i suspect that i may take it all the way down to 150. Even at 150 it'll take no less than 10 minutes to get out the chip, at least the way i hone. you can speed up honing quite a bit by using pressure, but i'm pretty bad creating uniform pressure and find that i get best results if i use no pressure whatsoever.

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You have no idea how much it hurts my heart to know that someone would dare hurt their straight in such a fashion! Kind of reminiscent of how Saddam Hussein treated his subjects!;):D

LOL, well that's ok - you always knew I'm THE enemy... I mean peace it all together - the politics, the goats, the razors..... :gth
I guess I could pretty safely assume I'm never gonna get a razor from you ;)

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Originally Posted by gugi

LOL, well that's ok - you always knew I'm THE enemy... I mean peace it all together - the politics, the goats, the razors..... :gth
I guess I could pretty safely assume I'm never gonna get a razor from you ;)

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If you pay good, and I've already honed it, you are welcome to almost any razor I own Ivan!

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Originally Posted by JMS

If you pay good, and I've already honed it, you are welcome to almost any razor I own Ivan!

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What I pay!!! We've got new era in this country - under the upcoming presidency one of my requirements before I even consider the FDA job is that I get paid for any razor I get. And it will start with your mint W&B. I think I'll go easy on you and require you to pay me only 1000USD for giving it to me. And yes, once Mr. Douche meets my requirements and I start considering what else I need to require for processing or my application I won't be touching no hones no more :)

Anyways, I hope I can find some time this week to do the chipped frameback - I think it'll be fun to see the effect of various grits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gugi

tape the spine and use low grit (150 or even lower) hone. at least there's no shoulder.

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

I'd say 400 wet/dry at worst. Or a DMT 325 grit if you have one (it is less aggressive than fresh sandpaper) but a 1000 grit stone would work.

If you are new to this you will make mistakes. And at 150 grit, those mistakes will cost you dearly.

If you use 1000 grit it will take some time, grnated, but then when the nick is gone your bevel will be ready for honing on the 4K norton.
And it will also give you the opportunity to learn correct honing strokes.

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Originally Posted by JMS

Your kidding...right?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

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What are the odds of these two being in complete agreement!

Truly I'm saying to you, I have come to usher a new era - the goat will sleep with the wolf! And now you know that I am a uniter, not a divider! But beware, my time has not come yet.

I will insert my 1200 DMT here. A lot slower but I might end up with an edge after a couple of hours. Knife hones may be quick but so are mistakes.

-Bob
:w

Guys,

Wow, there is a range of advice here, from send it out for a pro restore to 150 grit.

Thanks for the advice. I am glad the majority think these can be honed out - even if the two processes came to the same end the honing seems less serious.

Actually, I don't know the difference in results to the blade between honing and grinding. There is still a lot for me to learn.

I still need to pick up a 4/8k.

I won't learn with these.

I will be moving next month so either I will deal with these this week or it will have to wait a month or two. Either way and what ever I end up doing I will post the picks.

Thanks for the affirmations too.

Eric