the "etruscan" razor,john watts sheffield

hi to all!
yesterday during a weekend in mountain with my girlfriend i've bought an old razor called "etruscan".
on the box:
the "etruscan" razor by her majestys royal letters patent.

berks patent john watts sheffield sole manufacturer

the razors is approx 5\8",presents some rust,the scripts and the edge is in good condition.
i haven't idea how many years has this razors...
in your opinion how i should operate to delete the rust and to arrange the scale (the final point of the blade lightly touch one side of the scale) ?
thanks to all!
saluti!stefano

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/9...cture002uf.jpg

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9...cture003em.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6...cture004fh.jpg

http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/7971/picture005p.jpg


http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/3...cture007xb.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4...cture008kz.jpg

I owned that in another life. You should return it to me post haste!

Ciao Stefano
I don't know how much experience you have in restoration but I recommend reading these links. You may find all the answers you need.
Just start the sanding with a finer grit or even just metal polish then try coarser if not satisfied
Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki

For the alignment these may help:
Blade Centering - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Fixing warped horn scales - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Fixing warped scales - Straight Razor Place Wiki

:) thanks!! :)

thanks for the links!i'm reading some very good info!i'm a little diyer but not in the field of knives unfortunally!
i've some question about the pin,the rod and the spacer are material of common use findable in every ironmonger?
second little question... in your opinion what grit should i use for first?i read this:
"Experience has taught me that the best way to remove pitting is by first sanding circular with a very low grit (80 - 120). "
the rust "flower" is not very deep,a 400-600-800-1000-2000 passage is a good choice?

in this link,a battery,soda,some iron rod,12 hour ca... is a good for this purpose?
saluti!stefano
http://www.circuitielettronici.it/To...%20ruggine.pdf (PDF ITA)

earmi.it - Eliminazione elettrolitica della ruggine (ITA)

How to Remove Rust Using Washing Soda - Electrolytic Rust Removal | eHow.com (ING)

i've tried the soda method with an old and very rusty key... text tells 12 h of time for some results with "clean" part, my key in 1\2 litre in ten minutes lost the bigger parts of rust,the colour of the iron has changed from the upper parts... tomorrow i'll make some photo of the short experiment!

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/2672/picture011uro.jpg

You should be able to get the brass rod for pins at any hobby store . They may also have #0 washers but I get mine here: Micro Fasteners - Hobbyists Source - Locknuts - Washers - Machine Screws - Fasteners - Rivets - Wood Screws

Yes I think the progression you quote,400-2000 might work well. You can always drop below 400 if needed.

Be careful with chemical means of rust removal they can cause damage also.

Stefano, bellissimo questo rasoio!
Secondo me pero' dovresti lasciarlo com'è adesso e provare ad affilarlo dopo che gli dai una mano di lucido tipo il MAAS. Una lama con un pochino di patina raserà come una pulita, ma con più carattere. :)

-d

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nubskillz

Stefano, bellissimo questo rasoio!
Secondo me pero' dovresti lasciarlo com'è adesso e provare ad affilarlo dopo che gli dai una mano di lucido tipo il MAAS. Una lama con un pochino di patina raserà come una pulita, ma con più carattere. :)

-d

---

grazie!!!:):) devo dire il vero...non mi dispiacerebbe levare i fiorellini di ruggine!non per altro quanto per evitare che continuino a mangiare metallo,per questo avevo pensato prima all'elettrolisi di modo da ripulire solamente senza darci di vetrata e spazzola di panno con pasta...
ho ancora problemi con la pietra... la mia belga non affila... o meglio non son buono io... ho provato a passare piu e piu volte ma nulla,il filo è sempre pessimo,sia dalla parte blu,sia dalla parte gialla!ho trovato delle pietre su ebay dal polacco che non costano tanto,grana 5000 e 12000 mi pare ma non so se è il caso di provarle..

curiosità..secondo te quanti anni puo avere questo rasoio?
saluti!stefano

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rendoman

grazie!!!:):) devo dire il vero...non mi dispiacerebbe levare i fiorellini di ruggine!non per altro quanto per evitare che continuino a mangiare metallo,per questo avevo pensato prima all'elettrolisi di modo da ripulire solamente senza darci di vetrata e spazzola di panno con pasta...
ho ancora problemi con la pietra... la mia belga non affila... o meglio non son buono io... ho provato a passare piu e piu volte ma nulla,il filo è sempre pessimo,sia dalla parte blu,sia dalla parte gialla!ho trovato delle pietre su ebay dal polacco che non costano tanto,grana 5000 e 12000 mi pare ma non so se è il caso di provarle..

curiosità..secondo te quanti anni puo avere questo rasoio?
saluti!stefano

---

Se la tua Cuticle belga non affila e possibile che #1 devi ancora impararla ad usarla meglio, e #2 non stai usando la giusta quantita' d'acqua sulla pietra. Ai letto qualche guida sul'affilatura dei rasoi? non e la cosa piu' semplice del mondo, io sono 3 mesi che ci sto a provare e 15 rasoi dopo mi sa che sto iniziando a capire come farlo. Prova a trovare un video per fatti vedere come usare la tua belga, e in piu' il lucido dovrebbe levare la ruggine attiva con un po' di olio di gomito. ;)

... in effetti l'acqua l'ho sempre messa a caso... mi sa che è meglio cercare un video specifico!a breve qualche aggiornamento!:)
ma piu o meno,per un rasoio molto poco affilato quante passate ci vorranno?

Sorry my Italian is bad so its easier in English for me.
If I understand correctly you are trying to set the Bevel with a Coticule & have tried the Blue side as well. You need to make a slurry for it to cut steel quickly or as you are finding water alone will not be effective. Probably best start with 1000 grit stone then move to your Belgian stone. If you do not have a small coticule to make slurry you can use a Diamond plate.
And the razor is pre 1890.

Here is a video that may help :
http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...cule-bout.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Sorry my Italian is bad so its easier in English for me.
If I understand correctly you are trying to set the Bevel with a Coticule & have tried the Blue side as well. You need to make a slurry for it to cut steel quickly or as you are finding water alone will not be effective. Probably best start with 1000 grit stone then move to your Belgian stone. If you do not have a small coticule to make slurry you can use a Diamond plate.
And the razor is pre 1890.

Here is a video that may help :
http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...cule-bout.html

---

Hi onimaru55!!yes!you understand correctly!i've tried to hone with the belgian but i don't find any result.. thanks for the video!i haven't a slurry stone,if i see well in the video the water become dark after few passage... when i pass the blade on the stone nothing appears,probably my touch is too light... this afternoon i'm going to search a 1000 stone at my ironmonger,and i try to search the microfastner...it seems a very good and fast solution right?

i read about your warning for chemical removal... in your opinion is better to pass a sandpaper or this time,seeing the few flower of rust,try to eliminate only the rust and not attack the metal?

little question:beer2:... if the razor is pre 1890,the original scale can be in plastic?in black,perfect plastic? or there was a change of scale? (if the second is right i'm thinking to change plastic with wood :P )

thanks for the answer!!
saluti!stefano

just because i've some wood to recycle i try to make a new scale,if the result is good i'll think to mount on a razor (but what razor?? :P ),if the result is bad... i'll put in the garden,take my airgun hw35,0,177" cal,parallax setted at 25y and shoot until the scale is dust:gwh:

i know i'm making someone laugh... in italian "sega" is "saw" but the same word is used for diy with hand (for man)... i didn't remember the english noun for write "saw",i remember that "sega" in certain site (...:)...) is written in other words... i was making laugh half forum :P
...lol...
my saw is a bad old saw with very massacred blade... but the result is still good considering time (25 min ca) and the tools...
saluti!stefano

ps: chi legge l'italiano si starà cappottando dalle risate leggendo il mio inglese



http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8636/33391943.jpg

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/3925/11725310.png

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1498/64304451.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2679/83662971.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rendoman

Hi onimaru55!!yes!you understand correctly!i've tried to hone with the belgian but i don't find any result.. thanks for the video!i haven't a slurry stone,if i see well in the video the water become dark after few passage... when i pass the blade on the stone nothing appears,probably my touch is too light... this afternoon i'm going to search a 1000 stone at my ironmonger,and i try to search the microfastner...it seems a very good and fast solution right?

i read about your warning for chemical removal... in your opinion is better to pass a sandpaper or this time,seeing the few flower of rust,try to eliminate only the rust and not attack the metal?

little question:beer2:... if the razor is pre 1890,the original scale can be in plastic?in black,perfect plastic? or there was a change of scale? (if the second is right i'm thinking to change plastic with wood :P )

thanks for the answer!!
saluti!stefano

---

Piacere !
Yes, the Belgians will generally not cut fast with water alone so the slurry is crucial even after 1000 grit
The sandpaper is a safer approach to removing rust than chemicals which often darken the metal. If you want a shiny blade you will need to sand anyway.

If the scales are plastic it is likely they are not original. They would usually be horn. ( corno :) )

PS Che grande sega ! Non seggare troppo :roflmao

Oue'! le sege in publico? :roflmao

ahahah! :D
yes the scale is in flexible plastic! i try sand paper!! :)
update at few time!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nubskillz

:roflmao

---

posto qua l'msn perche mi sa che ho qualche problema con i messaggi privati:

adorabilecanaglia84 ( at) hotmail.it