Wade & Butcher Diamond Edge

So I just got this razor off the bay. Wade & Butcher Diamond Edge. Reasonably cheap due to busted scales. Not sure how to approach this one. The wash/frosting near the edge is very unique, but some small areas within it have surface rust.

Any safe way to remove the surface rust and keep the "Diamond Edge" logo. Or is it something I need to part with for the sake of the blade?

Attachment 110064

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The only way to save the etch is to carefully sand around it, any kind of abrasive will remove it in a blink.

Metal polish, maas, semichrome, flitz and the like, applied with a q-tip and rubbed with a paper towel will remove some of the corrosion without taking off the etching. It is not going to remove all of the rust though. If you want it shining like a new dime you need to get the sandpaper out to start and then buffers or dremel to finish.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Metal polish, maas, semichrome, flitz and the like, applied with a q-tip and rubbed with a paper towel will remove some of the corrosion without taking off the etching. It is not going to remove all of the rust though. If you want it shining like a new dime you need to get the sandpaper out to start and then buffers or dremel to finish.

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Thanks for the advice! I was in the chat early this morning and Undream said the same thing. I am not worried about age marks. I just wanted to safely get the orange spots off the etching. Used Mothers chrome polish with the q-tip and it did the trick. However now I have a whole other issue. After I unpinned the razor I discovered the pivot hole is like three sizes too big. Guess I need to invest in some tubing. Brass works good, right? Or should I use another method?

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Originally Posted by JackofDiamonds

Thanks for the advice! I was in the chat early this morning and Undream said the same thing. I am not worried about age marks. I just wanted to safely get the orange spots off the etching. Used Mothers chrome polish with the q-tip and it did the trick. However now I have a whole other issue. After I unpinned the razor I discovered the pivot hole is like three sizes too big. Guess I need to invest in some tubing. Brass works good, right? Or should I use another method?

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Yes, you can sleeve it with brass tubing.

The trick I use is a NO 2 lead pencil. Sharpen it and use the sharp point on the rusted areas. It will not hurt the etch nor will make the rusted spot shine. It will remove the active rust. Wipe it with a soft cloth and oil it when finished.

I used that trick on this razor.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...foreduring.jpg

and managed to keep most of the etch intact except where it was already rusted.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u.../FredR006S.jpg

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Originally Posted by Wullie

The trick I use is a NO 2 lead pencil. Sharpen it and use the sharp point on the rusted areas. It will not hurt the etch nor will make the rusted spot shine. It will remove the active rust. Wipe it with a soft cloth and oil it when finished.

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I never heard of that, I will totally try it on the questionable areas! That is what I am looking for. A nice aged razor. Excellent advice Wullie!

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Originally Posted by JackofDiamonds

Thanks for the advice! I was in the chat early this morning and Undream said the same thing. I am not worried about age marks. I just wanted to safely get the orange spots off the etching. Used Mothers chrome polish with the q-tip and it did the trick. However now I have a whole other issue. After I unpinned the razor I discovered the pivot hole is like three sizes too big. Guess I need to invest in some tubing. Brass works good, right? Or should I use another method?

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Yup, tubing is good, but if you have trouble sourcing that, I've also had luck filling the hole with tough epoxy and drilling it out to the right size. No idea how long that will last though...

Wullie
Are you saying you sharpened a pencil, then applied the pencil lead to the rusted areas kind of like you were shading it in?

Just a question ... Seeing its a combination of silver and steel, wouldn't the non abrasive silver polish work??

If you need some bushings(tubing) for it, just PM me your address. I've got more than I'll use in ten years. In three or four different sizes. I'll send a little of each size I have. Don't waste your money buying it in bulk. You'll never use it all, and it just tends to be another thing you have to find a place for. Some Ace hardware stores sell it by the piece though. Not mine ofc...but some do.

I've used a Selleys product called Kneed It with good results for the pivot hole.
I just put some 3/32 tubing in and fill the rest - gotta make sure it's square though.

My biggest issue is that I polish the tang before I do it and have to do it all again after filing the filler down..:banghead:

Finally I can actually vouch for Wullie. I have the same razor as Wullie and this technique of removing rust has come up a few times in my posts and it works.

I am not a paid spokesperson but I play one on TV.

Cheetah

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Originally Posted by JackofDiamonds

I never heard of that, I will totally try it on the questionable areas! That is what I am looking for. A nice aged razor. Excellent advice Wullie!

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Originally Posted by mapleleafalumnus

Wullie
Are you saying you sharpened a pencil, then applied the pencil lead to the rusted areas kind of like you were shading it in?

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Yep. just like your drawing on it. You'll feel the rusty spot get smoother as you rub the lead on it.

Pencil trick does wonders. Wullie, you are some kind of sorcerer. :p

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Originally Posted by JackofDiamonds

Pencil trick does wonders. Wullie, you are some kind of sorcerer. :p

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Pbbbbt. Learned that trick from an old man back in the late 60's. He used it cleaning up rusty spots on his Browning Superposed to keep from messing up the bluing with steel wool. Worked like a hose then, still works today.

Glad to share. No magikik involved. ;)