Newly Acquired - Marshes and Shepherd, IXL, Roberts

Hi all, thought I'd throw up some pics of some new razors.

Up first is an old Roberts stubby that had about a half inch chip out of the toe, so I ground it down to a travel razor and made some burl scales. The wedge is the ivory that came with it. Unfortunately the burl cracked at the pivot as I was pinning, but it miraculously cracked in a way that it was stable enough to superglue the tip of the scale back on and it is as stable as before. Hopefully it holds. I'm guessing the razor is around 1810. Someone ground the tang down to give it more of a shoulder. I see this too often.

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Up next is one I had to have - a Marshes and Shepherd from the 1820s with the label "Real Platina Steel". As I understand there was no authenticity protection at the time so this steel could be anything, but I like to think it's related to Faraday's experiments with platinum. This might get those pinned scales I put up a while ago, or I might backtrack and actually try a new set of them. Perhaps even try my hand at carving horn or bone.

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Last up for razors is an ebay BIN I scored pretty cheap. Took a risk on ok pictures and was rewarded with an almost 19/16 Wostenholm IXL razor. The picture doesn't do it justice, it is huge. It's also got top and bottom jimping, which is cool. This thing's got the original factory finish, with polished blade and more rough tail, and the horn scales are in almost perfect condition. No rust to speak of, not really even in the pivot. This thing was so well taken care of. And the edge is near perfect.

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And finally I decided to take some scrap maple and router a couple boxes for some stones. I was really fighting with this router, so they're pretty rough but completely functional.

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Both are beautiful but that Wosty is bad to the bone. I've got a 9/8 Wosty 'for barbers' that took a fabulous edge. They are top notch. Great score.

very nice !!! all of them ...

Great buys! I'm a big Wosty fan so that 19/16 has me salivating lol.

very cool! I'm wondering regarding the Wostenholm IXL, is there a practical reason for the point to be concave or was it purely a cosmetic?

That big Wostenholm looks fantastic.

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Originally Posted by griff199

very cool! I'm wondering regarding the Wostenholm IXL, is there a practical reason for the point to be concave or was it purely a cosmetic?

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Not sure what you mean. If you're talking about the barber's notch, there's a lot of debate on that and I can't give you a straight answer. see: http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ers-notch.html

Here's a better picture of the Wosty next to an 8/8.

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Originally Posted by ScienceGuy

Not sure what you mean. If you're talking about the barber's notch, there's a lot of debate on that and I can't give you a straight answer. see: http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ers-notch.html

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Uhm...excuse me ...uh...new guy here. I believe the correct name for it is Hollow Point or Hollow Notch. What are Straight Razors for 1200 Chuck..LOL

Oh and share the wealth man. I think you have a case of Cheetah Disease..LMAO

Great stuff. I love the big blades of course.

I have some Hollow Points, but I keep them in their clips.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing!

The whole problem of 'barber's notch' versus 'hollow point' is really about the division between the names users give things and the names factories give them.

A guy working at his grinding wheel is going to call it a hollow point and a hollow spine. The users call them barbers notches and swaybacks. Anything the grinder has to concave out, typically, is referred to as hollow. Further down the line, as they're sold and used they get lots of other names.

The term 'barber's notch' isn't really going to confuse anyone. Personally, I consider it as valid a term as hollow point.

Also, I'm very envious of that 'Real Platina Steel' razor!

Im going to give you the router help. Your trying to take to much material at once with a router that's not powerful enough or a dull bit. Im routering constantly at work, hanging doors, making shelving, custom casing. I always leave a bit of wood for the end, like a 1/6 or so, and remove that 1/6 to give it a nice clean look. Even If you have to set the depth 5 times so its not burning, take a bit of material at a time. Also, if the material cant escape that bit and starts clogging up by the bit, this will also generate tons of heat.

Just my 2 cents.:beer1:

I forgot. Nice razors by the way!!!:tu

Thanks. I did do about 5 removals for the router but was having lots of problems with bad connections in the triggers and our bits were dull and burnt out from a long time ago. I almost didn't want to put pics up it looks so crappy

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Originally Posted by Voidmonster

The whole problem of 'barber's notch' versus 'hollow point' is really about the division between the names users give things and the names factories give them.

A guy working at his grinding wheel is going to call it a hollow point and a hollow spine. The users call them barbers notches and swaybacks. Anything the grinder has to concave out, typically, is referred to as hollow. Further down the line, as they're sold and used they get lots of other names.

The term 'barber's notch' isn't really going to confuse anyone. Personally, I consider it as valid a term as hollow point.

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I hope everyone knows that I was just kidding. I love reading the barbers notch vs. hollow point threads when they pop up. So I figured that I'd apply the knowledge here...Hey how bout those Knicks!..LOL