The Marx brother without a terminal vowel: Zepp!

http://theshiveringbeggar.com/wp-con...3/IMG_8397.jpg

Since I first saw pictures of one of these, I've wanted to own one. There's something about the industrial design that appeals to me on a pre-verbal level. Maybe it's because it reminds me of the better industrial designs of the mid 1980's, maybe it's because I'm just a sucker for clean little arrows telling you which way to move things.

This reminds me a bit of the Rolls razor, except that I find it more functional -- I never did get the zen of shaving with an edge on the end of a stick. It's a very gadgety razor. If you slide the guard off the bottom of the scales, they separate into halves with a little comb at the bottom. Those little rivets that look kind of like an oddly placed third pin hold on push-tab buttons at the point-end.

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I like the knurling on the buttons. If you hold in the button while you close the blade, a little tab inside will lock onto the functional barber's notch at the end of the blade, like so:

http://theshiveringbeggar.com/wp-con...3/IMG_8398.jpg

Now you've got a razor with a guard! How new and high tech! The incredible innovations of the machine age..

Wait, you Stewart's Plantagenet razor came first? Oh. Stewart bought the existing patent from another firm? Oh... Jean Jacques Perret had one in the mid 1700's? In fact there were a lot of different versions of this idea.

Well, did any of those guys have arrows and sans-serif typefaces? NO THEY DID NOT!
(I actually like the design of the Plantagenet razor best, but I've failed to get my hands on one so far).

http://theshiveringbeggar.com/wp-con...3/IMG_8396.jpg

In any event, this is a neat razor. Here you can see it with one of the scales clipped to the blade to act as a guard. It's really easy to unclip and change sides, and as an added bonus, you can use the clip to lock the blade into the scales to prevent it from opening. To get it open again, you have to take that slide off, open one scale and then unclip. It's an elegant design, but the weight of the scales works against it. I have to wonder how much better a tool this would be with a heavier blade to balance the weight.

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The one I got does have a forging defect in the blade. It looks and feels like a bad crack, but it's very shallow and doesn't extend down to the cutting edge (or up to top of the spine). It hasn't seen much honing, and it took a fantastic edge with minimal effort, other than dealing with the weight of the scales. I can't really stress this enough. I got one of the best shaves I've ever gotten from this razor.

These were made between the summer of 1912 and maybe as late as 1915. By 1916, the Zepp Safe-Razor company was listed as defunct. I can't find any ads for theses razors beyond 1913 though, so I suspect they'd gone floaty in the aquarium well before 1916. For a year, there, they were posting a lot of business. $120,000 or so of assets at the end of 1913. The following year there was some kind of reassessment though, I think over import duties because the parts were made in Germany.

Next up, I'll post some pictures of the Zepp with its close cousin, the Ern Junior.

I really enjoy seeing different styles, Thank you for taking the time to show us.

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I got both my Zepp and my Ern Junior in their original leather carrying cases. Both needed some fixing, but the Zepp's was easier to do. It just needed to have the interior parts re-sewn (though my grandmother would probably sigh if she could see the job I did -- she taught me better).

http://theshiveringbeggar.com/wp-con...3/IMG_8392.jpg

They've both got scales of nickel-silver, which actually has no silver in it at all - it's %60 copper, %20 nickel, %20 zinc. The Zepp just got polished before I took the picture (I used brass cleaner, and it worked great). It will tarnish to that warmer silver color over time.

http://theshiveringbeggar.com/wp-con...3/IMG_8394.jpg

Before I put them next to each other, I kind of suspected that the scales on the Ern were parts that'd been worked less than the Zepp parts, but it turned out that the 'grill' on the bottom of the Ern has fewer teeth than the comb on the Zepp, and there are some other differences as well. They are, however, very similar.

Unfortunately for the Ern, it doesn't have any added usability features to offset the weight of the scales.

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Ironically, the Ern was in some ways in better shape when I got it. It's only real problem was that the tail had been taped up with ancient cellophane tape that had done what celluloid is so good at -- released nitric acid (that's how the carry case for it got that 'burned' spot -- it was from the tape). The tail was probably taped to prevent the razor from swinging freely through the scales since at some point the original mounting screw got lost and someone just put it back together with a copper rivet. The tail of the razor is badly pitted from the tape, but the blade is pristine. What you see there is how I got it.

Some ads for the Zepp claim the blade is made with vanadium steel.

http://books.google.com/books?id=bmA...%2C1487&edge=0

Others don't mention that. I could swear I found one that just says 'cast steel', but now that I'm posting about it here I can't find it again.

http://books.google.com/books?id=qb9...%2C1314&edge=0

Unreal, I never knew these existed. I can't say I would want one, but I'm glad to have seen them. Isn't it interesting that a collector/shaver, who has mainly been interested in the earliest Sheffield stub tails, would become interested in such advanced contraptions as the Zepp and the Ern ? :D

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Unreal, I never knew these existed. I can't say I would want one, but I'm glad to have seen them. Isn't it interesting that a collector/shaver, who has mainly been interested in the earliest Sheffield stub tails, would become interested in such advanced contraptions as the Zepp and the Ern ? :D

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I really can't stress enough what an amazing shaver the Zepp is. Not that I tried it with the silly GUARD in place.. SHEESH!

And you'll note... I kind of want a version of it with a fat wedge of a blade. ;)

Speakin' of which, this John Barber razor I bought from ScienceGuy has such a thick, tall spine that one piece of tape wrapped over the top didn't actually cover the area that touches the hone. I had to tape both sides of the blade independently... And after all the sanding I did, it's going to be a career getting a bevel on it again.

I really like those, Thanks for sharing!

Far cooler (and I'll bet 5000 times more effective) than a Durham Duplex with carpet knife blades from Lowe's :) Seriously though, that's a really cool lookin razor

Very interesting razor for sure, a little gadgetry but nevertheless unusual different and the fact that its a good shaver makes it operational and not a dust collecting collectable. Thanks for sharing!

thats a cool razor , in my short time here and looking around ive never saw such a thing ...

This is the age that i find most interesting. The straights are losing the battle and are looking for ways to find themselves more interesting or practical to fight the SE's.

That's pretty interesting. Of course now I want one of those too. God this RAD is easily triggered!

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Originally Posted by Voidmonster

I could swear I found one that just says 'cast steel', but now that I'm posting about it here I can't find it again.

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This ad claims "crucible steel"
Attachment 125929

They are very cool and especially beautiful. Funny my business partners name is Zepp I wonder if his family has a some stashed in the attic, possibly being the heir to the Zepp fortune.
Yeah Right. :rant:

Very cool, I have never saw these razors before now!! Now I want one.. :)

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Originally Posted by Martin103

This ad claims "crucible steel"
Attachment 125929

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Ah yes! That's the one!

I knew I'd seen it, but for whatever reason, I couldn't find the same ad again yesterday. Thank you!

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Originally Posted by Tarkus

They are very cool and especially beautiful. Funny my business partners name is Zepp I wonder if his family has a some stashed in the attic, possibly being the heir to the Zepp fortune.
Yeah Right. :rant:

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There may well be a cache of Zepp razors lurking in someone's attic! That'd be cool to find! They made regular straights as well as DEs too.

That razor would be enough to make Harpo speak!

Dang! I have one! Now, I have to get it out and hone it up! :D

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Dang! I have one! Now, I have to get it out and hone it up! :D

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PICTURES!!!

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

As you wish, Sahib :bow

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Looks like yours has the same mounting screw instead that Manah's does, instead of the rivet on mine.

I'd bet that suggests the one I got is from earlier in the production.

Have you honed it up yet? ;)

I used shoe polish to restore the factory darkening of the letters, just like I'd use Renwax or ... shoe polish, on a shoe.

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Originally Posted by Voidmonster

Looks like yours has the same mounting screw instead that Manah's does, instead of the rivet on mine.

I'd bet that suggests the one I got is from earlier in the production.

Have you honed it up yet? ;)

I used shoe polish to restore the factory darkening of the letters, just like I'd use Renwax or ... shoe polish, on a shoe.

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Sorry, I thought I would try to take better pics, Sahib! :D Yes, a little screw with a slotted nut. It looks like someone has peened the thing a bit anyway. Perhaps the screw-nut thing kept coming loose! Maybe someone just did away with it on yours?
Attachment 125948Attachment 125949Attachment 125950

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Sorry, I thought I would try to take better pics, Sahib! :D Yes, a little screw with a slotted nut. It looks like someone has peened the thing a bit anyway. Perhaps the screw-nut thing kept coming loose! Maybe someone just did away with it on yours?
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The rivet mine has looks original. I've never seen one like it anywhere else, at least.

I know the Ern originally had a little screw and locking nut too, but I think I've only seen one of those in full factory-original shape. Most of the others have homemade fixes, which suggests those screws were a bit screwy, dunnit?

You know, Zak, it seems to me I have previously seen an Ern Junior with the same type of pivot screw! Probably did the same thing back then that they do now! :rofl2:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

You know, Zak, it seems to me I have previously seen an Ern Junior with the same type of pivot screw?

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Yep. I've seen it too, and like that ad for this Zepp that says it's made from crucible steel, I can't find it now.

Particularly interesting is the ad which claims they were ground on 4 different size wheels. It seems a very likely shaver, indeed!

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Particularly interesting is the ad which claims they were ground on 4 different size wheels. It seems a very likely shaver, indeed!

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I'd bet good money the Zepps were manufactured by Ern, and Ern was a pioneer in fully automated grinding.

Maybe Martin can find the other pictures of the Ern Junior like he did the ad mentioning crucible steel. :)

Interestingly, I found the patent given to C. Friedrich Ern for a safety razor, and looking at it, it looks like the Zepp razor and not the Ern junior.

Attachment 125966Attachment 125967

For the complete patent description follow this link: Patent US987453 - GAEL FRIEDRICH ERW - Google Patents

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Originally Posted by Martin103

Interestingly, I found the patent given to C. Friedrich Ern for a safety razor, and looking at it, it looks like the Zepp razor and not the Ern junior.

Attachment 125966Attachment 125967

For the complete patent description follow this link: Patent US987453 - GAEL FRIEDRICH ERW - Google Patents

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That sure looks like an unequivocal proof that Ern made the Zepp razors, because that is absolutely the Zepp razor.

I very strongly suspect that the Ern Junior came about from the process of tooling up the machines to produce the fancier scales on the Zepp. There's really not any other reason for the Ern Junior to have the 'vent' at the bottom.

I'd guess that the machines were designed to press stamp the scales as a flat piece, then that was folded in half to be the Ern Junior, and for the Zepp it was cut and beveled at the 'vent', which then became the combs.

Yes, Martin! Good work! That is it! I have seen many of these Zepps and, of course, advertising exists for them. I have not seen an Ern of this design. Perhaps Zepp was a division of C.F. Ern, OR the design was sold to Zepp. Zepp is seen on regular straight razors as well. I wonder if any research into Zepp might yield more clues?

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Yes, Martin! Good work! That is it! I have seen many of these Zepps and, of course, advertising exists for them. I have not seen an Ern of this design. Perhaps Zepp was a division of C.F. Ern, OR the design was sold to Zepp. Zepp is seen on regular straight razors as well. I wonder if any research into Zepp might yield more clues?

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I'm trolling through treasury department publications (oh, the things I do for fun!) and the picture that emerges is... Complicated.

January 1911, in Mill Supplies Volume One (a brand new trade rag for jobbers) there's this:

http://books.google.com/books?id=zOr...37%2C43&edge=0

The Zepp Safe-Razor Company of 299 Broadway, New York City filed a motion with the department for a drawback on tariffs related to the German made blades in their razors. They filed that on September 12, 1912, a few months after the first advertizement (that I can find) which appeared simultaneously in several quarterly magazines in the summer of 1912. (McBride's, Lippincot's, Outing, The Bookman). The Treasury wouldn't get around to offering them that refund on tariffs until 1918, by which time the company appears to have been defunct.

In 1912, 299 Broadway was an office building (I don't know if the IRS was directly across the street from them *then* too, but it is now) that housed multiple businesses.

The ads for the Zepp Safe-Razor company dry up completely by the end of 1914.

Polk's New York copartnership and corporation directory of 1915 lists the president of the Zepp Safe-Razor company as one Carl Friedrich Ern Junior, so there's that mystery solved, though by that point they'd pulled up anchor and moved to Jersey. An earlier listing in 1912, when they were still at 299 Broadway, lists the president as C. Fred Ern Jr. There's a partial 1911 listing for the company too, with Ern again listed as president.

A 1916 Druggists listing has them at the NJ address, making razors and safety razors.

It's worth noting that all the tax filings to this point put the Zepp Safe-Razor company squarely in the upper 10% of company valuations. $128,000 followed by $250,000 -- that was serious money then.

I can't find it now, but a listing from 1916 or 1917 lists them as defunct.

And this all starts to look nicely cut & dried, yes?

Then comes 1918 and this listing:

http://books.google.com/books?id=S6h...80%2C66&edge=0

So it looks like the company got sold to Edward Weck, of Sextoblade fame.

No, no, no. I caught a case of the dumb. Those are two separate listings... So Zepp is still being listed in business directories as of 1918. Back to the books!

Short version:

Zepp Safe-Razor company was founded in 1911 by a group of American investors, they put Carl Friedrich Ern Jr at the helm. Company made razors for a number of years, filed taxes, paid tariffs, folded, got refunded tariffs and... Somethin', somethin', somethin'? Back to the books for me.

And as an interesting footnote to that, the original VC investors (Harry P. Picking and Charles O. Geyer) ponied up the cash for a large number of other companies, into the 1930's. Looks like they just loooooved manufacturing. Until they got into electronics, the Zepp Safe-Razor company was the most they'd spent.

Oops. Major error in my post, I edited it.

So It would seem to me that the "Ern Jr" razor was a product sold by Zepp during those few years?
I am also supposing that the razors (Jr's and Zepps) were made in Gemany by "Dad", C. F Ern, for his son, the inventor of the prototype.
Goins sez that C.F. Ern died in 1924 and sons Jr and Otto took over C. F. Ern in Germany
A quick glance at Goins said 1920-1930 for Zepp! :rofl2:

SO, is the Ern Jr from the Zepp days, or did he produce it from modified Zepp tooling after Zepp went down? Before or after his father's death? :thinking:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

So It would seem to me that the "Ern Jr" razor was a product sold by Zepp during those few years?
I am also supposing that the razors Jr's and Zepps) were made in Gemany by "Dad", C. F Ern.

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The Ern Jr has manfully resisted my every attempt to find its origins. So far, it hasn't turned up in any literature, but the name isn't exactly the most searchable. It actually looks like, by that point, it was Junior who was doing most of the manufacturing. He also patented (in 1898) a machine for simultaneously grinding and polishing razors.

Have you had any luck finding the Ern Junior, Martin? I'm not even entirely certain they were sold in the American market. The one I got came from BC.

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Originally Posted by Voidmonster

The Ern Jr has manfully resisted my every attempt to find its origins. So far, it hasn't turned up in any literature, but the name isn't exactly the most searchable. It actually looks like, by that point, it was Junior who was doing most of the manufacturing. He also patented (in 1898) a machine for simultaneously grinding and polishing razors.

Have you had any luck finding the Ern Junior, Martin? I'm not even entirely certain they were sold in the American market. The one I got came from BC.

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Not much info about origins etc , a lot more info on others of their razor, patents, etc

finally found a complete zepp razor , and for a great price. its unfortunate most people don't wet shave but on the other hand that means more for us in the know

Thought I'd go ahead and resurrect this old thread. I found the patent for the Ern Jr. razor.

Attachment 288166

It was filed with the U.S. patent office in August of 1912, and the patent was granted in August of 1914. It's interesting that the creation of the Ern Jr. razor post-dates the Zepp. I'd always just kind of assumed it was the other way around, with the construction of the Zepp being somewhat more complicated.

Also, here's a clipping from a 1915 Shapleigh Hardware catalogue:

Attachment 288165

The scan isn't great (it's from a catalogue page auctioned off on eBay), and it can be a bit hard to read, so here are the takeaways:
The Ern Jr. razors were available in three finishes -- gold, silver, and gunmetal. And the 1915 price per dozen was $40.