Bitten By the Antique Show bug!!!

They arent beauty Queen's but ill give them a bit of tlc (metal polish and a dremel with some polishing paste)this evening and see if they come back to living a bit. I know there is quite a bit of hone wear that I hate seeing and the etchings on the W&B aren't visible anymore but o well. Hopefully I can convince Glen(hint hint) to bring them back to their former glory.
Cost $25 for the pair, just putting out the number, I know the rules,Ii was happy to pay it, cant tell but probably just fake ivory scales. Also in the same place there was a gem and jewelry show as well, walked in and got weak seeing an entire table of amazing Lapis Lasuli all finished pieces and unfinished pieces so of course I fed the addiction and grabbed some.
let me know what you think, sorry about the bad pictures. I have thick skin so I can take it.
respectfully
Christian

they look like beauty queens to me !!

Nice>>>>>>>>>>>

Look Good To Me... I Would Have Bought Them!

Very nice, they will scrub up good i think.

It just stinks that the engravings aren't save able with the w&b. It's also my first w&b so I'm pretty excited about that. Yippee

what size are those things? they look like 13/16ths+ to me.

I'll have to measure them but I'd say pretty damn close to that size.

regardless, two large sheffield blades for 12.50 each is a steal. Please don't use the dremel on them.

I only use the dremmel with the felt pads and polishing compound

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

regardless, two large sheffield blades for 12.50 each is a steal. Please don't use the dremel on them.

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Originally Posted by EAGLESKADU

I only use the dremmel with the felt pads and polishing compound

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just make sure you keep it moving along the blade rather quickly so you don't get wavy polishing lines and to keep the heat down.

Thats a great find! decent condition, definately worth restoring for sure, Enjoy!

Kind of odd the w&b has a sort of damascus look to it but very shiny, pictures to follow soon

Not bad for a Dremel and some tlc. The W&B can shave arm hair after just a nice stropping. Thanks for viewing.

Sorry the pictures arent as good as Id like them to be. Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the rest of the waves and all other blemishes on the W&B with only a dremel and sand paper to work with? I have 100,200,320,400,and 1200 grits I believe. And of course the lower grits for my orbitals and mouse sanders, as well as the dremel wheels, but those are all 60,80 and 100 grits.(way to rough so I'm guessing)
Thanks in advance
Christian

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Originally Posted by EAGLESKADU

Sorry the pictures arent as good as Id like them to be. Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the rest of the waves and all other blemishes on the W&B with only a dremel and sand paper to work with? I have 100,200,320,400,and 1200 grits I believe. And of course the lower grits for my orbitals and mouse sanders, as well as the dremel wheels, but those are all 60,80 and 100 grits.(way to rough so I'm guessing)
Thanks in advance
Christian

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use sandpaper and your finger. Or to save your fingers and help get into the corners, use an eraser as a sandpaper block. Or a wine bottle cork as a sandpaper block... I told you the dremel would leave waves :D

Dremel=worst friggin tool ever invented for use on razors:(

Those waves were already there, I didnt create them. I barely use the pads on the steel as I dont want to ruin the blades, and knew the pads would never take out the waves/pits etc etc.

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

use sandpaper and your finger. Or to save your fingers and help get into the corners, use an eraser as a sandpaper block. Or a wine bottle cork as a sandpaper block... I told you the dremel would leave waves :D

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The day will come when Ill get a proper buffing wheel(s), and be able to put the dremel aside.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Dremel=worst friggin tool ever invented for use on razors:(

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from what I see in those pictures, it's my opinion that you've cleaned them enough. The bevels are nice and clean steel, who cares if those old blades show a little age? The highly polished look on old sheffield steel looks kind of cheesy to me.

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Originally Posted by EAGLESKADU

The day will come when Ill get a proper buffing wheel(s), and be able to put the dremel aside.

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A buffer is nice but like the dremel, isn't *really* required.

I have a dremel and never use it on razors for three reasons:
1) potential for causing heat damage
2) potential for causing the afore-mentioned wavy lines or other uneven wear marks that could easily be casued by using a relatively small tool
3) potential for a thing whizzing at 10-25,000 (or whatever it is) rpm catching on the blade and sending it in a totally unforseen direction with great velocity!

I also have a bench grinder that sadly runs too fast to be useful on razors, mostly (IMHO) due to heat issues.

And so I mostly use wet/dry sandpaper, micromesh, Mothers polish, time, and patience. :) Until I stop buying razors, etc., for long enough to be able to afford a variable speed buffer, I'll be doing all my blade cleanup/restoration by hand. It takes time and patience, but I like the process.

Anyway, that's just me and the way I like to work. Just wanted to throw out there that a buffer/dremel may be nice to use, but they certainly aren't necessities.

BTW - nice looking blades. :tu

A cheaper, affordable way of buffing blades is to clamp a 3/8 electric drill to a saw horse or table. Lowes has 4" buffing wheels for dirt cheap along with buffing compound of various "grits." They also carry a shaft specifically for the wheels and to go into a drill. Lock the trigger on and away you go. I've done blades with this setup and it works very well. Recently I've been doing the hand sanding and metal polish way. A little bit of elbow grease and metal polish can go a long way I have found!

I'll take the advise, gratefully all, and work the wet sandpaper route and lots of elbow grease and patience. Must learn patience.
Respectfully,
Christian

Do you REALLY want to remove all the blemishes. I know I'm rather obsessed with forcing a patina, but I really think big old razors look really nice with some patination. You may never get it 100% smooth, there may always be some pitting. I DO like 100% perfect razors, but sometimes it's worth going the other way, i.e. making them look a little shabby and old.

I use a mixture of vinegar and citrus juice. Sometimes I try to make patterns. Sometime sit takes a few applications, with some rubbing with fine Wet and Dry in between, maybe three 'layers' of patination. I wouldn't do that to a razor that was professional restored and nice and smooth and shiny, bit for older ones I think it looks very nice...

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Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

Do you REALLY want to remove all the blemishes. I know I'm rather obsessed with forcing a patina, but I really think big old razors look really nice with some patination. You may never get it 100% smooth, there may always be some pitting. I DO like 100% perfect razors, but sometimes it's worth going the other way, i.e. making them look a little shabby and old.

I use a mixture of vinegar and citrus juice. Sometimes I try to make patterns. Sometime sit takes a few applications, with some rubbing with fine Wet and Dry in between, maybe three 'layers' of patination. I wouldn't do that to a razor that was professional restored and nice and smooth and shiny, bit for older ones I think it looks very nice...

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I think if I ever got around to buying a brand spankin' new shiny razor, I'd like to keep it that way. But most of my razors are 125 to 150+ years old and frankly I like the fact that they look like they have a bit of experience. :)

Patina lovers of the world unite!

:beer1:

Did I go too far on this one though?

Attachment 127545

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Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

Did I go too far on this one though?

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Nah... there are still shiny bits there! :)

Maybe I have to change my mindset, being of a Nautical Military Service I have been forced to shine and keep shiny anything and everything that could take a shine, especially brass. Which I love. But the inner child in me also loves the heavy patina on brass as well, when it greens and such. Its touch to change everything I've been force fed for many years, but I'll take some baby steps away from the dremmel and sand paper, and step closer to the stones and strops and put more attention there. And hopefully become accustomed to the patina and slight scratches/pitting and not look at them as only imperfections and eye sores but seasoning.
Thanks for all the advice.
Christian

Like so many aspects of this straight shaving thing, the important thing is what *you* like!

And that is what I LOVE about this site(thanks Lynn) people arent afraid to give their honest opinions but also allow you to have yours without judging(to badly) Not that I couldnt handle the judgement,I have grown to have pretty thick skin but a very sensative face:)
Respectfully,
Christian

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Originally Posted by Cangooner

Like so many aspects of this straight shaving thing, the important thing is what *you* like!

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Dremels have a place (somewhere) but not for razors.Buffers in the right hands can do wonders,But with razors the grunt work has to be done by hand.Instant gratification cannot be part of razor resto work..
My Dad was a very well known Gunsmith back in the day.His field of expertise was case hardening with colors and real Rust bluing.
He did alot of resto work for Abercrombies and Orvis (mostley double guns) I have seen him spend weeks hand polishing nice old sidelock actions,all by hand,are no shortcuts in real restoration of anything if it is to turn out perfect.

My plan is to restock on the full range of wet papers and grab a few different types of backings be it erasers, cork or rubber squares cut down to fit and getting dirty. After I move I'll have a few weeks off to set up the house and such, but late night after the baby is in bed I can spend a few hourse each night attacking the razors and hopefully get each and every one back to its former glories.(if i dont send some off to get finished for me as about a dozen of them need new scales GREEN SCALES....NEED GREEN)... sorry, I lost my mind for a second...who am I kidding I've been trying to find my mind for years. Thanks again Bill.
Respectfully,
Christian

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Dremels have a place (somewhere) but not for razors.Buffers in the right hands can do wonders,But with razors the grunt work has to be done by hand.Instant gratification cannot be part of razor resto work..
My Dad was a very well known Gunsmith back in the day.His field of expertise was case hardening with colors and real Rust bluing.
He did alot of resto work for Abercrombies and Orvis (mostley double guns) I have seen him spend weeks hand polishing nice old sidelock actions,all by hand,are no shortcuts in real restoration of anything if it is to turn out perfect.

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you said green scale material?

Masecraft has bunch...

popular choices are micarta, g10, and acrylic.