My full wedge is more difficult to strop as far as getting to shave ready vs full hollows. Is it the relative lack of flexibility of the wedge or what? Input appreciated.
Printable View
My full wedge is more difficult to strop as far as getting to shave ready vs full hollows. Is it the relative lack of flexibility of the wedge or what? Input appreciated.
If you haven't already seen it, take a look at Glen's quick video on stropping!
He touches on many, many points of interest including stropping a heavy wedge.
I do hope this helps!
gssixgun Stroptober 2012.wmv - YouTube
I strop wedge razors quite a bit more than full hollows: 50 linen/100 leather (as opposed to 20 linen/60 leather for hollows). This has been working really well for me for quite some time now. As well, I've noticed that the big old smiling wedges don't like to sit flat on a taut strop so I like to give the strop a little bit of slack to compensate.
I use the exact same technique that Ryan82 mentioned above. That method works very well for me and was the result of much trial and error. I use wedges almost exclusively now and I get very good results from this regimen.
Learn to use an X stroke on any strop.is truly the best way IMO for any blade.
Berthold, most of my razors are full hollows. I strop them with 30 strokes on linen and 90 on leather. On the heavier grinds, such as wedges, the ratio goes up to 50/100. My three strops are all 2.5" wide, which is my preferred width for a strop. I have had 3" strops, too. Either way, the X-stroke is a habit. Learn it early.
My experience is that wedges of any width, and hollow razors with a width of less than 5/8", do better on a supported stropping surface (paddle, balsa). I use a balsa with CrO followed by leather paddle.
An interesting note is that woodworkers get their chisels (similar to a wedge razor) razor sharp using this method. You won't find a woodworker using a hanging strop on his chisels. :)