i just tried using this chromium oxide on this leather paddle strop and i noticed that its scratching the medal worse than the polish off my 12,000 naniwa, what could be up with that?
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i just tried using this chromium oxide on this leather paddle strop and i noticed that its scratching the medal worse than the polish off my 12,000 naniwa, what could be up with that?
If it's the normal stuff it should be around 0.5 micron and that you can't see without a scanning electron microscope...
Either it's some bad chromium oxide you got, with BIG particles in it or you got some dirt on your strop.
Im going to hazard a guess. I think the CROX might be revealing scratches that were not taken out at lower grits.
hmm i might try differend crox, whats better leather or balsa?
For me two of the answers are very feasible. As far as medium goes, I use linen hanger.Balsa and leather work also imo.
definitely no revealing scratches i rubbed it agains another metal and it scratched it up visable to the eye
It seems the crox or the surface is contaminated. I would try something like old clean denim and some scrap metal to see. That way you wont waste another surface
im using a leather paddle right now and maybe its what i did to the leather? someone told me to sand the leather down so its more rough and then rub the chrox could that be the problem?
First, make sure the CROX is the good stuff. Some manufactures do not have tight variances when it comes to their products. So you could have many different particles sizes greater than .5 micron. You should only have .5 or lower microns in the medium. Hand America, SRD and others have this type variance. I prefer smooth leather for chromium oxide.Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
it was stuff made by phil from classicedge.ca he sent me a sample, i have the puma paste which i guess i will put on a different surface and use that instead. whats my cheapest bet for a new surface? balsa? i dont want to order another paddle strop
You need to be careful. Not all CrO is the same. I know they sell the stuff for lapidary work and it comes in a bar or powder form and is called simply CrO however it contains other stuff which is great for lapidary work but very bad for a razor. before you buy make sure it's the pure stuff.
You can buy a balsa strip for fairly cheap at an arts and craft store. I think if you get a thick piece you should be fine. I sand it down with some high grit sand paper too.Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
Btw, since you are experimenting it might take a few times, some trial and error to get everything down.
thanks! now one more thing, should i go back and do a few strokes on my naniwa 12,000? or will the crox get those scratches out? theyre quite fine scratches
Wouldnt hurt. Hard to say from here though.
and to sand down the balsa, i have a dmt which i use for lapping its pretty coarse is that ok to use?
Get some 1,000 grit or higher 3m or Norton sandpaper.
what happens if i use my DMT? can i use my naniwa 1k stone? to sand it? i like my dmt because its fast
I think you hit the nail on the head. Sandpaper contaminated the strop.Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
Michael
Balsa is very fine. You will not need a lot to sand it down. I would avoid using stones you sharpen your razors with to sand the balsa, IMO.
What about the don't? If I get sandpaper what grit? I prefer the DMt if using it is ok
I have not heard of anyone using their DMT to smooth out a piece of balsa. I guess it could be done. I just would not do it simply based on the fact that I would not want to do that to my sharpening stones. Sharpening stones are meant to lap other stones or for sharpening. Balsa does not fall into the category. I wish I could offer more of an explanation. Of course, they are your stones and you can try whatever you would like.Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
As far as grit of sandpaper, you can go with 1,000 to 2,000 grit. Norton and 3m make it.
Or use Micro Mesh... how I love that stuff, hardly use any other abrasive paper any more.
so now im having trouble finding a balsa block. i went to the craft store and found thin sheets, but where do they sell blocks of it?
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ed_balsa_stropQuote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
You will not find blocks so get the thickest possible or find something to back it. The link above gives one possible way to make a pasted balsa paddle strop.
Yes, thats most likely. When I sand leather I do not use a fresh piece of sandpaper for just this reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaykamoe
Yup, the strop is contaminated. Look at the strop with magnification, you will see the grit. WD40 will remove the Chrome Ox from leather, though it may not remove all the grit.
Scraping with the strop on a flat bench and a Cabinet card scraper or a knife with a straight edge at 90 degrees and a light touch will refresh the face and may remove the grit. You can buy a Card Scraper for around 5 dollars and will leave a suede type finish a sharp kitchen knife may work also.
If you use balsa do not sand, scrap flat with the card scraper. Good quality sandpaper is less likely to shed grit and Balsa does not have to be perfectly flat as it will deform with stropping.
YES, as Euclid440 says right there ^^^ , scraping is the best non-contaminating way to level your balsa if it isn't flat enough.
Maybe you know a woodworker...
I was going to agree and say the sandpaper contaminated the strop....I almost bought a vintage strop at a local antique store and when I rubbed my hand across, it felt very gritty. When I asked, was told that someone told him to use sandpaper to clean up the strop...I could literally see the little particles glinting on it, and I know if I had of stropped my razor on it there would have been multiple scratch marks.
I got some CroX powder from Phil at the Classic Edge as well as two felt lined balsa boards and have no problems with my Crox, Dovo Red, and Dovo Green pasted boards....