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So I just graduated from a modular paddle strop to a regular roo strop and I think that I am rolling my edges. To correct this do I have to reset the bevel, or can I just take it back to the finishing stone? What's the easiest way to fix this problem besides learning how to strop correctly?
Regards and happy holidays to all,
Tony
You can try the strop, although it probably needs a hone though. Impossible to say from here.
Hey bill, thanks for the response I figured that it needed the hone, but does it need to have the bevel reset or just the finisher?
What makes you think you rolled the edge? Harsh shave? Razor glides over the whiskers?
The degree to which it is "rolled" helps determine the appropriate action...
Hey Ryan, thanks for the response. Yep, harsh shaves r would make me think that I rolled the edge because they were all made shave ready by Glenn so I know that they were shave ready for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan82
Tony
Depends how much you rolled it. If its just the absolute tip, a finisher may do it. Ive heard guys using pasted strops also. Very variable so you can try the finisher, and work your way down until its there.Quote:
Originally Posted by anthogia
Thanks! I will try the pasted strop first and then work my way down to the finisher all the way down until it's correct again!Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
Thanks again guys!
Tony
That sounds like something that could possibly be corrected with a strop, but since you are new to a hanger using a stone might be the safer bet.
The best thing to do is start at the top and work your way down (high to low grit). A finisher might be too fine, but you can try it first if you like. 8k would be a good starting place though. If that doesn't work, move down to 4k etc...
Looks like Bill and I were typing the same thing at the same time :)
Thanks Ryan, I will skip the strip altogether and just hit the stones- at least I know I can do that correctly!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan82
I had a junker blade that was dull as a spoon, just to practice stropping. It can still damage the strop but not like a shave ready can. Once you get it down, try a good shave ready. I used to then strop like 30 laps hht test, 30 more hht test just to verify I wasn't rolling it. It did help me in the early days. When I did 60 laps with no drop off in hht, then I knew I had it. Nobody is born with stropping skills, so in a year if you use it daily for 60 laps, that's how many laps? Over 20 THOUSAND laps. So by then you will be an ace!
Last question- if I look at the edge under magnification will I see the roll in it?
Yes. The tip essentially is bent.
Ok I'll checkem out. Thanks again gentleman!Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
In my (bitter) experience it would be difficult to "roll the edge" stropping unless you cut the strop. If you want to know what can be seen in your microscope, try looking at an edge that has been dulled on glass, this will be more damage than can be achieved stropping on leather.Quote:
Originally Posted by anthogia
I guess we all can have our own way of achieving the same thing.I didnt cut my strop and never nicked one either. Not discounting your experience at all though.
Sorry Bill, you lost me. Are you saying that you have "rolled" an edge stropping or that you have seen a "rolled" edge in your microscope?Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
Hello, what I am saying is I have rolled edges without cutting or nicking the strop. The point I was making is you can roll it the edge without damaging the strop.
Here is a good old vid from Toxik about "Sharp Tests"
Tony, the pin test he demonstrates is excellent for what you are asking about, if the edge it rolled enough to catch a pin then you will probably need a Hone, if not then a strop might do the trick..
I generally like to say the the damage you create with a strop can be fixed with a strop but I have been proved wrong about that on occasion :p
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZYFsOP7rBc
I think I have shredded more strops than anybody here but I am certain I have never rolled an edge. It's something I have to believe can't be done unless you really apply a lot of pressure to the blade against the strop . The suggestion of looking under a microscope to determine the condition of the edge is a good one and I use a 100X microscope to do just that.
Thanks Glenn! That's perfect- just what I was looking for!Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliforniaCajun
Try taking a shave ready razor, strop it and lift the spine while stropping or lift off with the spine up so that the edge flips along the strop while moving..
You will not harm the strop, and you will roll the edge pretty darn easy..
Lifting the spine is pretty easy to do on the away stroke for somebody new to a hanging strop,, Stropping a Full Hollow Singing razor and listening to the laps will find the error PDQ
The other stropping whoops that causes rolled portions of the edge is coming off the side of the strop so that the Bevel rides the edge of the strop, this will often times kick up little tiny leather knicks on the strop and fold the edge of the blade in spots..
I am pointing out errors on leather but doing the same on linen is harder to spot and easier to damage the razor edge
I posted an image of "edge rolling" caused by dulling on glass in this thread:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ml#post1134924
I have tried stropping with a fair amount of force on a loose strop and could not achieve any damage of this sort.
The one time I rolled the edge while stropping was at the end of a 500 lap speed stropping session (an experiment on the effect of stropping). At 500 I set the razor down edge first into the strop and nearly cut it in half. When I looked at the edge in the SEM, the part of the blade that cut into the leather was rolled.
Finishing stone only. I think there are two primary culprits. The first would be your thumb. Your thumb "drives" the flipping action. Too aggressive and you'll over torque the edge (esp. in combo with the change in motion down the strop). The next is sloppy control as you move down the strop. If the angle changes as you strop there is more likelihood that you'll dull out the edge.
Charging the angle, while not bad, is adding more stress to the edge.
In your stropping you have too much stress on the edge (while many others do not apply enough). Just focus on tightenting the strop, lightening the action, slowing the speed, and maintaining careful angles, with consistency. This should reduce the action on the edge. Then go back to slowly adding action. Stop when the blade edge feels smooth to the skin, stops pulling, and glides comfortably.
Stropping and honing both inflict trauma to the edge of the blade if done carelessly. A razor edge is a delicate thing due to how thin it actually gets during honing. Therefore it should be treated in a delicate manner throughout the sharpening process.
I have found it necessary to develop a very light touch on both the hone and the strop when finishing an edge. The light to no pressure touch has given me best results in the final analysis.
Think about trauma. Whether it is inflicted upon your body or the nice wax finish on your Corvette or to the delicate edge of your razor, trauma will never leave you with the best final result. Trauma is never good. Just ask an ER nurse.