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If an older razor has a lot of hone wear so that it is only honed further with electrical tape on the spine in order to open up the angle on the edge, should any consideration of hone wear be given when stropping? Should there be more or less tension in the strop? Does it not make any difference at all as a practical matter or even as a theoretical one? Sorry if this is answered elsewhere, google didn't turn up an answer for me.
Theoretically, anything is possible but it doesn't make any difference as a practical matter.
I treat my wedges that took 3 layers of tape the same as my full and extra hollows that I don't tape when it comes to the strop.
Treading very carefully here, with an opinion and observation.. I do NOT want to give the wrong impression so read carefully
Most razors that take 3 layers of tape to hone tend to be the older heavier Sheffields, I have found that in my hands and on my strops that these razors seem to get a bit better effect from the strop by easing up a very tiny amount on the tension while stropping...
A very TINY amount, not some drooping loosely held strop :)
Try it and see if you get the same results
In playing around with lap count for what was effective I have noticed my Sheffields came around a bit quicker,Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Not enough so that I adjusted my stropping, I just kind of wrote it off as the steel being a bit softer.
Granted I am not heavy handed compared to some of the people I have seen.
Now I think I need to play some more :)
jb45,
I find that for the very few razors I have that need three (3) layers of tape :
1) If you use a paddle strop, then you will benefit from taping when stropping.
2) For a hanging strop, I do exactly as GSSixgun says - allow a little more slack in the strop.
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
Just a little...very little.
An interesting observation, when using one layer of wet copy paper under 1um film, the first ¼ -1/3 of the edge is polished in the first few laps with light pressure, finer stria clearly visible under magnification.
That is not a lot of deflection, so a hanging strop will allow for much more deflection and polishing of the edge and the entire bevel, polishing the edge first.
Personally I find a convex bevel last longer and possibly stronger as it is thicker. I prefer a hanging strop to a bench/paddle strop for that purpose.
I also slacken the strop a bit to increase the convexing process.
Big +1 to Glen's post. I've been doing the same and actively promoting it for several years now and it works wonders, especially on those big old smilers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
The only thing to watch out for is that a loose strop is easier to nick IMO, so your form needs to be spot on.
Sounds like you might be a "double bevel" kind of guy. They work & work well...Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Sounds a bit painful having to tape your razor to strop it, putting the tape on esp 3 layers would be a bit of stuffing around.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatMan
I don't think it would make much difference if you are only using 1 layer of tape honing. There should be enough deflection in a taunt hanging strop and even in a paddle strop not to matter. All bets are off with wedges especially if they need more than 1 layer of tape to hone up. I allow a tiny bit of slack in my hanging strop for those.
Bob
I would bet hone wear has zero effect on stropping,JMO
Kind of, but what is different than adding tape increasing the angle, it is the cushion/deflection that concentrates the polish at just the edge convexing the edge of the bevel as opposed to creating a secondary micro bevel.Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
As that tiny amount of deflection would indicate, a hanging strop deflecting even more would have the same effect on the edge and hone ware on the spine a minimal if any effect on stropping the edge.
The more deflection, the more concentration on the edge, but as with most things only to a point, too much of a good thing is not always better.