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Hey guys, I am looking for a strop paste to give my edge a little boost after finishing on my Coti. I'm torn between a few pastes. The Theirs Issard strop paste around 10000 grit. The Dovo red and black paste set or some Chromium Oxide. What are your thoughts on the matter. Thanks.
A little chrome ox after a honing will do a properly honed edge some good, kinda like the icing on the cake. No need for the others mentioned IMO.
+1 on the Crox. I'm no authority on pastes, but it's all I need.Quote:
Originally Posted by nun2sharp
Chrome Oxide is probably the best place to start, but what kind of paste depends on what you want to accomplish.
Chrome Ox will smooth an edge and can add a bit of keenness. Be careful, not all chrome ox is alike in terms of purity and once on, it is never coming off.
Other paste can add keenness or smoothness.
So, best…depends.
Oh and the substrate will affect performance. The same Chrome Ox on balsa, will perform differently than on leather or nylon. And as your stropping technique improves, so will result on a pasted strop.
Just because I've always had to take the path less traveled, I use cerium oxide, optical grade. Smooths the edge quite nicely, I also have CrOx but prefer the cerium.
SolitarySoldier,
I have had some mixed results with the Thiers Issard Pate De Rasior. This is not to do with the pastes sharpening ability, but to do with issues in applying it to the strop.
I have found that when you try and apply it to smooth leather surfaces, it tend to clump together like eraser crumbs - I had far better success by applying it to fabrics - in my case, an SRD cotton strop.
It is also very sticky after application. Some users have reported better results if the leather and paste are heated.
In the end, I preferred to use CrOx and diamond on hard leather paddles.
Have fun :)
Best regards
Russ
Diamond and CrOx pasted should be used sparingly - they can result in 'aggressive' edges. The Red and Black paste (used in that order) are far more forgiving and add a little extra but not at the sake of comfort. I have a double sided travel strop which I cleaned up and used about 600 grit paper on to create a sueded effect - this holds the pastes well. Using 40 to 50 laps on each side works for me.
I use the TI paste, CrOX, and Iron Oxide to refresh...
I applied the TI to an old leather strop, smooth side. It took a little work and rubbing to get it to take, but it did eventually. Just apply it sparingly (light X patterns the length of the strop) and rub in with your palm. I warmed the leather over a heater vent and this was all it needed to take in the paste.
My method (for my TI C135) is:
15 laps on TI pasted strop
15 laps CrOX on balsa
25 laps Iron Oxide on balsa
Plain webbing and leather to finish.
For my Dovo and Lafayette razors, I use half of the above to touch up, which works fantastically.
Sounds like a lot, noob! :D After honing, I usually do 5 laps on CroOx defore the fabric/leather. Any more could be too much. Easier to do more later if needed than to start over! Be certain to wipe that blade off before hitting the leather!Quote:
Originally Posted by Denvernoob
I have used Crox . Maggards Razors has a quality grade that costs $6 plus shipping. I put mine on felt with good results. My definition of good is crisp and edgy , super sharp, If I have a so so honing session Crox makes me look like a pro. For that reason I put it away and made myself improve on my honing skills. Many folks espouse using less than 10 strokes. Another school of thought espouses using 30 plus laps. I tried it both ways. Both work. More strokes on Crox left me with a wire brush edge feel. Factors to consider Quality of Crox. Material it is used on. And number of strokes. Combination of these variables will give a larger spectrum of results.
One thing for sure. No one has said after using Crox I have a dull edge. Never. Find what works for you. Good stroping
My favorite method is to apply a little abrasive-free paste, and then some slurry from my extremely fine natural water stone (mine is a Chinese water stone). Let it dry, and even it out with your thumb, and then strop a few passes. Strop with fabric next, and then plain leather. My razors have never been better.
I really like Puma green paste, been using it for several years now. Easy to apply and works great.
Some of us will recall posts a few years ago about saving slurry dust from the honing session and applying the dust to linen and/or leather strops. IIRC, there were some very positive results posted about doing that.
Is anyone still doing that?
I was really interested in this paste but found it is not so easy to find for a decent price. At least I can't find it anywhere. I purchased the 2 oz jar of Chromium Oxide from the classic edge so I literally have enough for the rest of my life now. Just don't exactly know how to apply it. Does anyone have experience applying strop paste I don't want to overdo it. I watched Lynn's video on refreshing razor blades. I was mind blown at everything he has. He actually used a crayon of crox and I have a paste so it isn't the same when applying or is it? Anyways now I would like some suggestions on how to apply the paste. Thanks guys. All input is helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badgister
I put it on the back of the leather of an old strop....Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
+1 to what Phrank said. Start with 3 Xs along the length of the strop and remember that less is more. Try that amount and less than 10 passes. check the edge and go from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
I read on another thread after the x's are done to rub it in with your palm. Would you guys advise that? On one of Lynn's videos he states he uses 4-7 passes on the Cr0x. It's hard especially for a beginner to understand that less is more. I had trouble with this for some time not with pastes but other things shave related. I plan to use the cr0x very sparingly.
Sure if you want a green palm. Rubbing it in is fine. I use the back of a spoon. Green fingers too many times. You got this. You can always add more. Just mimic the video. After the first pass with your straight it will be plenty imbedded and it will do what it is purposed for.Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
Spoon it is. I won't add more until I feel I need it, which I don't even know how it feels vs not having it coming off a coticule. You're right I do got this. Worst part is I have to wait until Christmas as my moms got it for me as a gift. (with my guidance of course)Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Don’t rub it, let it dry so you have areas that are not pasted.
When you strop you are cutting and polishing at the same time.
An application should last years.
Attachment 188446Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
This is the other end of the spectrum with Crox pasted. You cant mess this up. By going lightly . Coticule is buttery sharp, this is opposite of that . Go too far and you will feel it. A few laps on coticule with water will soften the harsh. Less is more . Not repeating to be a jerk. Just as a reminder because I went the wrong way till I found my way.
I like cubic boron nitride.
i like the Crox
When ya'll learn to strop you won't want anything to do with any more of those messy pastes. And, your visits to the hone will become fewer and further in between. Come on over to the clean strop side boys. There's plenty of room and the shaves are wonderful.
Regards
Chasmo
Man, I have used quite a few different "pastes" - they all have their place.
After a bunch of "testing," I am down to two:
1 micron diamond spray for tougher jobs, followed by chromium oxide. I use the hard wool. I think my testing is over :).
+1, that's my take alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by earcutter
