Waaaa!!

I just put a nice slice into my strop. It's a deep cut going into the center of the thickness of the strop, about 1/4 inch long and produced a flap.

I'm not sure how to fix this so the strop is usable again. I think I should cut the flap off, sand the area down with a pumice stone (don't know where to get one locally) and apply some strop dressing to the affected area.

The concern is that it will create a hollow that the razor will have to pass over. This is on the edge, right in the middle of the length of the strop.

Oh, and as to how this happened....let's just say it was late at night and I got stupid :rant:

Been there, done this (with sandpaper, but still)

Seems like a reasonable approach. Strop should work OK but just looking at mine is enough to make me cringe. I don't use it just because it's not pleasant...

Good luck
Ivo

Remember: honing is with the edge leading, stropping is with the edge trailing. ;)

Hey Steve,

Bummer! I can help you out with one thing - I got my pumice stone from a chemist. It appears that some people like to soften the callouses and hard parts of their feet by rubbing them with a pumice stone. I figure if it's good enough for feet, it's good enough for a strop.

Good luck.

James.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Remember: honing is with the edge leading, stropping is with the edge trailing. ;)

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Oohh, that's the problem. I was doing it backwards :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimbo

Hey Steve,

Bummer! I can help you out with one thing - I got my pumice stone from a chemist. It appears that some people like to soften the callouses and hard parts of their feet by rubbing them with a pumice stone. I figure if it's good enough for feet, it's good enough for a strop.

Good luck.

James.

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Thanks James,

I've seen those stones in drug stores. I didn't know if they were the same thing needed for the strop (grit size differences so to speak).
I'll pick one up tonight.

Instead of cutting the flap off, you might be able to glue it back down.

Not sure what glue would work best on leather, but you'd want something that retains some flexibility when dry - I would ask around as to what the best glue would be (Tony Miller might have some good suggestions).

I think you'd also want to put a weight (a few large books would likely do) on the repair when drying to make sure it dries flat.

Others with more experience might be able to comment on this.

I would fear gluing the flap may create either a hard spot or a bump. Neither will be good for the edge. A dip or dimple (low spot) will not harm the edge or have any effect on stropping as it is such a small part of the entire surface the razor will pass over.

Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony Miller

I would fear gluing the flap may create either a hard spot or a bump. Neither will be good for the edge. A dip or dimple (low spot) will not harm the edge or have any effect on stropping as it is such a small part of the entire surface the razor will pass over.

Tony

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I think that's a good point about the gluing. As to the pumice, will the drug store variety do or is there a "special" pumice for leather?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

I'm not sure how to fix this so the strop is usable again. I think I should cut the flap off, sand the area down with a pumice stone (don't know where to get one locally) and apply some strop dressing to the affected area.

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I've done this a few months ago. Fired crying e-mail to Tony, etc. But I've basically fixed it the same way - cut it off, used 1000 grit sandpaper on the edges and used a tiny bit of dressing. Worked fine. Now the damage is mostly pshycological :cry:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by addicted

I've done this a few months ago. Fired crying e-mail to Tony, etc. But I've basically fixed it the same way - cut it off, used 1000 grit sandpaper on the edges and used a tiny bit of dressing. Worked fine. Now the damage is mostly pshycological :cry:

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I am going to give myself 30 lashes with the strop as a penance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

I am going to give myself 30 lashes with the strop as a penance

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Oh, THAT WILL HELP making the subsequent stropping a pleasant experience :roflmao

Cheers
Ivo

Seriously - decide in advance if you are prepared to live with the psychological damage inflicted by using the fixed strop. If you want - I can sand you mine so that you have a good idea what it will be like

Oh, THAT WILL HELP making the subsequent stropping a pleasant experience :roflmao

Cheers
Ivo
/quote]

Didn't realize we had any monks on the board. LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by izlat

Oh, THAT WILL HELP making the subsequent stropping a pleasant experience :roflmao

Cheers
Ivo

Seriously - decide in advance if you are prepared to live with the psychological damage inflicted by using the fixed strop. If you want - I can sand you mine so that you have a good idea what it will be like

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Any psychological damage done can be corrected by my adoring wife, the psychologist.

BTW - what do you mean by 'fixed' strop? I'm using a hanging strop.

I have repaired a cut strop without cutting off the flap. The issue about a hard spot or raised spot is certainly an issue, but not if you use the proper tools.

I would suggest using contact cement, very good for leather, and does not dry hard--very similar to rubber cement in consistency. Follow the directions on the bottle/can...apply to both sides, allow to dry 'open' for 10-15 minutes before bringing the two surfaces in contact with each other. They will immediately form a nearly unbreakable bond, so make sure they come together in the way you want them to stay. At this point, you can roll the strop with a rolling pin or a glass bottle to clamp the repair. Finish the repair by taking off any high spots with a pummice stone.

I repaired a pretty significant cut on a vintage e-bay strop with this method and you can barely see the repair. Eyes closed, running a finger over the repair, I cannot feel it at all.

Just another data point,
Ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ForestryProf

I have repaired a cut strop without cutting off the flap. The issue about a hard spot or raised spot is certainly an issue, but not if you use the proper tools.

I would suggest using contact cement, very good for leather, and does not dry hard--very similar to rubber cement in consistency. Follow the directions on the bottle/can...apply to both sides, allow to dry 'open' for 10-15 minutes before bringing the two surfaces in contact with each other. They will immediately form a nearly unbreakable bond, so make sure they come together in the way you want them to stay. At this point, you can roll the strop with a rolling pin or a glass bottle to clamp the repair. Finish the repair by taking off any high spots with a pummice stone.

I repaired a pretty significant cut on a vintage e-bay strop with this method and you can barely see the repair. Eyes closed, running a finger over the repair, I cannot feel it at all.

Just another data point,
Ed

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Ed, thanks for the instructions. Where do I get contact cement?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

Ed, thanks for the instructions. Where do I get contact cement?

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Any hardware store or home center should carry it. It is often used to attach plastic laminate to MDF for countertops. But you won't need to buy it by the gallon";" WalMart likely has a 2-3 oz bottle for about $3.

Cheers,
Ed

Ed - this was very interesting, indeed - thanks for sharing

Ivo

ps - I really hope I do not get to test it on my strops ;)

Ed,

I got the contact cement and worked on the strop. It worked quite well except for just the very edge of the strop which still has a small divot. It's working just fine though as the only part of the razor that passes over this is the very end of the heel.

Thanks for the suggestion!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

BTW - what do you mean by 'fixed' strop? I'm using a hanging strop.

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I think Ivo means neutered!:rolleyes::roflmao:roflmao

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JMS

I think Ivo means neutered!:rolleyes::roflmao:roflmao

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Ya know, there are days where I just don't seem to read things properly. I suppose it should have been clear but it wasn't at that time.:o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

Ya know, there are days where I just don't seem to read things properly. I suppose it should have been clear but it wasn't at that time.:o

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Don't worry Steve, every day is a day like that for me. Glad to hear the contact cement worked (another little tip to squirrel away when I next cut my strop) :tu

James.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimbo

Don't worry Steve, every day is a day like that for me. Glad to hear the contact cement worked (another little tip to squirrel away when I next cut my strop) :tu

James.

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I hope I don't have to do it again though. But it was a great tip and I'll add it to my journal for future reference.

I bet clamping the glued section with blocks would help it to dry flat... for future reference.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steve

I am going to give myself 30 lashes with the strop as a penance

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Skin oil is good for conditioning the leather, right? ;)

Actually, one of the reasons to use contact cement is because clamping is completely unnecessary.

Glad the tip worked...I just wish I'd never had the need to develop the procedure in the first place.

Cheers,
Ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Actually, one of the reasons to use contact cement is because clamping is completely unnecessary.

Glad the tip worked...I just wish I'd never had the need to develop the procedure in the first place.

Cheers,
Ed

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Contact cement is amazing stuff --the lack of waiting time is nice and somewhat intimidating in crucial exacting scenarios. Does anyone know the limits or pro vs cons of contact cement in general?


Justin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jaegerhund

Contact cement is amazing stuff --the lack of waiting time is nice and somewhat intimidating in crucial exacting scenarios. Does anyone know the limits or pro vs cons of contact cement in general?


Justin

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Pros: quick, strong, flexible.
Cons: only one chance to get it right

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Pros: quick, strong, flexible.
Cons: only one chance to get it right

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Prof... you're a genius... just fixed a strop of mine with your method.

A sensationally beautiful vintage australian strop that was damaged due to indifferent stropping technique... on someones part, no need to embarress any one person.

Thanks for offering the tip mate... at least a couple of very decent strops have been resurected as a result.

By the way... the contact cement i used is made by Norton! Is there anything Norton can't do?!

Greg Frazer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Greg Frazer

Prof... you're a genius... just fixed a strop of mine with your method.

A sensationally beautiful vintage australian strop that was damaged due to indifferent stropping technique... on someones part, no need to embarress any one person.

Thanks for offering the tip mate... at least a couple of very decent strops have been resurected as a result.

By the way... the contact cement i used is made by Norton! Is there anything Norton can't do?!

Greg Frazer

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Hi Greg,

I'm curious as to the name of the contact cement you used.

Please do tell.:D

No worries mate...

It's called Norton "Gelfix" contact cement... you (and me) might have heard it called "Bear" contact cement before...

I wandered around work today asking "have you seen any bear glue?" and this is what i ended up with... i wasn't aware it came in a gel as well until today. (Bear contact cement is liquid)

Let me know if you have trouble finding it... i know Bunnings and Mitre10 have it.

What i did was lay the strop flat on the bench... dip my bum scratcher in the cement and rub it over the cut... against the grain if you know what i mean... this seemed to work the cement deep into the cut... then i let it get tacky dry and rubbed with the grain pushing the cut closed and smoothing the surface... the excess cement rolled up and fell off like bubble gum would...

Next task is to get it off your finger... I'm sitting here now, reading the forum and trying to get Bear Gel off my hands... every campaign has it's casualties.

Greg Frazer

I realise my post is not as clear as it could be.

Norton Bear Contact Cement - is a liquid... been around for decades and what i would normally ask for if i wanted contact cement.

Norton Gelfix Contact Cement - is a gel... identical in every way to the liquid but with an additive to make it into a Gel for use on vertical surfaces.

Both are "Contact Cement" and suitable for what the Prof described.

Both are made in Lidcombe NSW Australia... by Norton Abrasives and have the little Norton Bear on the (green) can.

Greg Frazer

Thanks Greg for the info. :tu

Greg,
I'm pleased that you were able to resuce that strop...now how about your fingers? Actually, I think that same pummice stone you used on the strop will do the trick.
Cheers,
Ed

Good info on strop nick repair.
I did a small nick in a TM Starter Strop

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony Miller

I would fear gluing the flap may create either a hard spot or a bump. Neither will be good for the edge. A dip or dimple (low spot) will not harm the edge or have any effect on stropping as it is such a small part of the entire surface the razor will pass over.

Tony

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Back when I was collaborating with NASA, I was using a huge air-bearing sled that rode on a big granite slab near optically flat. The bearings could crash on a ridge of a few thousands. the idea was that when granite chipped, it would leave no divot. Same thing here, I guess.

Man what a bummer. Sorry to hear about it. I hope you can restore it to a usable condition.