Strop buying advice needed

I read this advice from Neil Miller in a recent post:

-"Try to resist buying a beautiful new strop before you get used to stropping - slicing a bit of expensive --leather can bring a tear to the eye! One of the starter strops would be a good idea."

Thank you Neil, I appreciate this advice as a newbie!

But I wonder if a better stop helps teach and vice versa; if a cheap strop impedes learning correctly? By this I mean can you get a correct feel on cheap strop?

I'm really struggling with learning Straight Razor sharpening. I'm starting to get more information. I ordered Lynn's disc. I have started posting an searching more. I am intent on making one final last thrust and see if I can get it right.

I have a Dovo "Russian Type Leather" Strop. To say the least, I am very disappointed in the Strop. I wish I had noticed the "type" statement before purchasing - I would never have bought it. Very deceptive. The talk about strops and "draw" on them tells me that strops are supposed to be supple and floppy. My strop seems like using card board. Getting "draw" on this is so rediculous as to be absurd.

I'm ready now to buy another strop and either thow away this dovo or use it for .5 diamond paste type finishing (can this be done once I've oiled it?)

Can someone elaborate more on what I've encountered with this Dovo mistake and on Neil's advice to buy a starter strop? I'm trying to switch to Straight Razor to save money but the cost is becoming a problem if you know what I mean.

Thanks

Haha- I read this as "STOP buying advice". I thought- now, there's a thread I need to read. Damn RAD.:w

just buy tony miller strop. and his 15 bucjs practice strop(no brainer) and just take time with your craft..good things take time

Tony Miller currently has a Heirloom Artisan Lite starter strop The Well Shaved Gentleman The Heirloom Razor Strop Company : Heirloom Artisan "Lite" Starter Strops it is top quality red latigo leather with just 1 handle and a drawstring for only $42.95 it is all you need to get started, heck some would argue it is all you will ever need, the leather is nice enough you won't want to damage and is a great performer, later you can always add componets such as linen or cloth or upgrade to a model with the fancy handles but this is really all you need

Going back to the old saying "It ain't the arrow, it's the Indian", I am surprised you are having trouble with the Dovo Russian. I don't own one but I have read good things about them here on the forums. A lot of guys seem to like them.

If a strop is called a "Russian" it used to be made of horse hide which has less draw then a cow hide strop. As for feeling like cardboard I don't know. As I say, I never owned one. Glen will probably be along and he knows the Dovo strops.

I agree with the advice to get a Tony Miller and then see what you think. If you were to cut one of Tony's strops you could get a replacement piece from him if you wanted. Then again if your not cutting the Dovo you probably won't cut the TM.

Just a thought. If the strop you have is really hard like cardboard. Perhaps some strop dressing and or baseball glove oil would work wonders. You could use it for a practice strop until you figure out a new one. Perhaps once it is in better condition you won't need another. Also the practice strop from Tony only cost me $7.50 in addition to the $75 nice strop. I have used the practice for a couple weeks with several cuts but now have done a couple days on the "primo strop" without incident. I bet there are a few members who have practice strops that you migh obtain. There are several threads adressing oiling your strop. Good luck.

Are you sure your strop isn't what you expected? Maybe it's only called a "Russian style" to emphasise that it isn't made in Russia?

Don't be too quick to give up on it. I have a Dovo "Prima Rindleder" strop, and it's annoyingly short and narrow and presumably has lower draw than some, but it DOES do the job. I put some yellow paste (i.e. grease, not abrasive) on it, but even without that it would have been usable.

Practicing is firstly about getting the movement right and only then do you need to worry about feeling the draw. No point getting great draw if you're slicing chunks out of the leather or rolling the blade edge. Learn to walk before you run IMO. :gl:

I’m wondering if this is an actual Dovo Russian strop, or a knock off feeding off both the Dovo and Russian leather names. Assuming it is a knock off, I’d sand it down and see what happens, you don’t have much to lose. Read on.

A softer flexible strop with lots of draw will make it easier to get a good edge as you learn. This is assuming your honing is where it should be. In all honesty, I’d look at the honing before the strop. Honing takes a while to get it right. Don’t toss the strop in question, I’d keep learning on it no matter what, even if you get a new one. Until you get good, may as well cut a strop you hate instead of a expensive one you love.

Yes, stiff is probably not a good thing, but as long as the strop is not cupped or rounded, I don’t see it as a deal breaker. A stiff strop with a hard surface will teach you how to keep that razor flat against the strop. Unfortunately, getting an edge may be an all or nothing learning experience.

I can see the draw being a more critical factor. If the surface is like shellac you are going to have problems. If you want more draw, buff the leather down a bit with sand paper. Just one ‘Catch 22’ – If the strop is a real Dovo, it’s designed for less draw and the problem is your honing and stropping, not the strop. Keep that in mind before you go bonkers with sand paper. If the strop is a fake, I’d sand away!

Wrap the sand paper around a wood block to keep everything flat. Start with 600 grit paper so you don’t take off too much. Sand a little, strop a little so you don’t go overboard. If you don’t perceive any improvement, move to courser paper, maybe a 200. Don’t be too aggressive, you are apt to completely remove the surface of the strop. Sanding can also remove cuts from your strop, if they are not major incisions. Sand with common sense and a light hand.

Oil on your strop is not a good thing unless it is so dry it is cracking, I think it messes up the draw. If it's like some cow hide I have, no amount of oil will soften it up.

I’ve only pasted using CrOx powder or greasy kid’s stuff diamond paste, both you can put on a paddle strop that has been oiled. If nothing more, I think you are better off with a stiff strop for pastes.