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Thread: Strop conditioning questions...

  1. #11
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    [quote="randydance062449"]


    Be sure to condition the back of the strop. It dries out from that side also.

    *****>> D'Uh! (light going off over head) I never thought, or did that! the BACK of the strop! that should make it softer all the way through .... will do that today for a few strops!

    I am also going to try using the Bag Balm - (which works GREAT up here in the cold Northeast on human skin!) - on a strop or two.

    I LOVE experimenting with all these toys!!!

    Best - thanks for the good tip, Randy!

    (Can't wait for my beard to grow out again so I can shave with my new SRP again!

  2. #12
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    Default Bag Balm....

    Okay - tried tha Bag Balm to condition a couple of strops - WORKED GREAT!!!

    Used very little, and worked it in with fingers first, then the palm of the hand. It really, really softened and conditioned the leather, and stropping on it was a pleasure!

    You can buy a tin of Bag Balm at about any pharmacy. it is cheap, and the tin will last many years (unless you do a herd of cows with it!)

    Best -

  3. #13
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Wow!, from 16 years ago!
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    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  4. #14
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Anyone reading this needs to ignore the above advice. My comments were made at a time when this subject was in its infancy.
    We have learned a lot during the following years. Go to the Library first and read up there first then go to the Strops forum for more info.
    I do not use 3 dots of oil anymore. I now use neatsfoot oil only and then I spread a bit on my fingers, make X"s on my strop then rub it in and wait for a weak or two to see the effect. Most of my strops have not been oiled in years.

    Just my 2
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  5. #15
    Senior Member Steve56's Avatar
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    I’m consistent with Randy’s advice these days. I also have a 10+ year old Kanoyama 80000 that I bought used and I’ve never put anything on it. It’s polished like a mirror and as supple as the day that I got it. Iwasaki says to never put oil on a shell strop, it will cut the polishing power in half.

    Sometimes I do use neatsfoot oil, on desiccated non-shell vintage strops (rare for me these days), and on boar strops. I use it like Randy does, I rub it on my hands then rub my hands on the desiccated vintage strop or the boar strop. Then wait a few days and assess the results.
    outback, Gasman and Tathra11 like this.
    My doorstop is a Nakayama

  6. #16
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Yep.
    This is what I do also. But o ly on a strop I find dry or vintage and needing help. A little goes a very long way. I give it 2 or 3 weeks before deciding if it needs more. If it does need more then I will do the opisite/back side next. Too much on the stropping serface is not a good thing.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  7. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I've always used a rag, dampened with warm water. Then I add a touch of neatsfoot oil to the rag, then rub it in.

    The slight bit of water helps draw the oil deeper into the dry leather, of a old strop.

    For the few times I've felt they were over oiled, I've wiped them a pass or two, with a clean rag moistened with rubbing alcohol, them palm rub them, again.

    Just make sure the rag is only damp, not wet. Your just wanting to pull a bit of oil from the surface of the strop.
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    Mike

  8. #18
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    I once got a red died strop from SRD before it went under that was so oily I never did get it cleaned. The rubbing alcohol was used a ton but it still kept bleading red and was soaked with oil no mater what I did. I think I cut it up and used it for something other than stropping.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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