Has anyone used Linseed (is that the same as Flax?) oil as a strop conditioner? I got a tip that it can be used to treat leather. I've only ever used it on wood (cricket bats, actually). Anyone had any experience with it?
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Has anyone used Linseed (is that the same as Flax?) oil as a strop conditioner? I got a tip that it can be used to treat leather. I've only ever used it on wood (cricket bats, actually). Anyone had any experience with it?
Linseed oil is flax oil, although the linseed oil you get from the hardware store has other chemical additives too. Boiled linseed oil will polymerize easily. This makes it turn into a hard, plastic-like substance. I think unboiled linseed oil also polymerizes, although much more slowly. This polymerization may make it unsuitable for use on a strop. I don't think I'd risk it on a good strop.
Thanks. Thought it sounded a bit strange. I'll stick to my dovo paste.
James.
How about scales?
Linseed oil is an excellent product for preserving wood, but I believe it needs to keep being applied over the life of the wood.
X
Yes, that's my experience - fairly regular re-application on wood.
I checked and Truoil's key component is linseed. Here's the description straight from the manufacturer:
How frequent would reapplications need to be if I started off with 5 coats and a wax buffing?Quote:
TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish is the professional's choice for gunstock (or furniture) finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age and resists water damage. TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish penetrates deeply and forms a tough, clear, hard finish that protects and enhances the beauty of fine woods. For a hand rubbed, satin luster, simply buff with steel wool and rubbing compound or use Stock Sheen & Conditioner. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage. Use the liquid for fast filling of the pores and the aerosol for the final finish.
TruOil is a varnish. As such it produces a film finish and will not need to be refreshed unless you wear through or scratch the surface. It offers substantially more protection than an oil finish which will penetrate the wood, but offers little or no surface protection from scratches or abrasion.
Just another data point,
Ed
The old adage I remember for linseed oil is:Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
once a day for a week
once a week for a month
once a month for a year
once a year for forever
That said, I usually don't put that much work into it. My garden tools and kitchen knives get oiled about once a year, floors every year or two, the old pre-64 model 70 every few years or if it gets rained on too badly. The essential idea is frequent coats at first to soak in and fill the pores. The way my dad taught me was to rub the oil in with my hands until it absorbed.
If the razor slabs get soaking wet frequently you would probably have to reapply more often. I applied a linseed oil finish on the walnut stock of the old model 70 270 in about '76. It was nice looking and only got oiled every few years. After it got soaked for several hours in a PNW dounpour in the Cascades around 2000 it definately needed another oil treatment. I didn't have a wax coating on it though.
Thank you gentlemen. I'll probably be picking it up tomorrow.
The tried and true recipe is 1:1:1 Boiled (Oxidized) Lineseed oil, Turpentine, Beeswax. And don't try to boil the oil yourself. Search the forums, Lineseed has been discussed before.
Nenad
Interesting! Does the beeswax just disolve or do you have to do something to get it into solution? If so, what?Quote:
Originally Posted by superfly
How about coachaline on a strop? My father used to use this on his rifle straps - I seem to recall that it was greasy stuff, but did a good job on the leather. Any reason why it might not be applicable to strops?
Jimbo I don't know the toxicity of the substance, otherwise I don't see any issues for the leather.
Just melt the wax in a double boiler, not direct heat, and stir in the turpentine and linseed oil. When cooled, it should turn into a thick paste. Store covered to prevent the turpentine from evaporating. Apply over one coat of linseed oil as a primer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Wallace
Nenad
Here's a nice historical reference of linseed and tung oil in the military. It also has the kewl linseed, beeswax and turpentine recipe towards the end of the file...
http://www.jouster.com/Bulletin/TUNG.htm
Nenad
Cheers. Might try it on an older strop and see how it goes/report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
James.
Thanks. I usually mix with turpentine but haven't used beeswax before.Quote:
Originally Posted by superfly
That is a similar recipe used by myself for caulking cotton dressing and seam primer. A variation on that makes a great deck seam putty for vanished boat decks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by superfly
PuFF
Hi guys,
I'm, new here and find this site very interesting. This will be my first post so I don't know if I'm pushing the right buttons. We'll see.
If I remember right I read in a leather workers magazine that linseed oil will make leather crack. I think you can use it if you want your leather item look really old.
Can you get cold pressed linseed oil in North America? It has a smaller molecular structure and penetrates wood better than hot pressed boiled oil. It is also free of the antioxidants that are released when it is hot pressed. It is like the extra virgin olive oil of linseed oils.
Olaf, linseed oil is not to be used on strops. For that purpose DOVO, TI and The Well Shaved Gentleman sell special product for maintaining the strop surface. One of the recommended replacements is Mink oil...
Nenad
You are right. I was unclear in my post. I guess my writing skills needs honing like my razor.:)
Linseed on leather is not good unless one wants a cracked surface that looks like the item has been around for hundreds of years. At least that is how I understood it.
On wood it is wonderful like so many have said in this thread.
Mats