Noop paste progression

Unfortunately it's very hard to know the right ingredients and granulometry of the pastes.
I'd like to test what I have to restore my first vintage razor (I've bought it just to learn how to)

a) Stangen paste red paste (in a red alu wrap)
b) Stangen paste black paste (in a blue alu wrap)
c) Puma pasta n3 extrafine (the CrO green one)
d) Thiers issard white pasta (aluminocycline)

I'd like to use balsa wood as strop (too much money for 4 leather strops)

What is your suggestion about the right (or less wrong) progression?
How many stroke each?

Thanks you for your support

Im unsure of that Thiers paste but the others would be red, black then green . Red is approximately 6mic, black 1 mic and the green approximately .5 micron. The Theirs could be 1 mic which is diamond from memory or some alumina products are .3 micron. A link to the product will help

Get some 2 inch cotton webbing and use a tarp clip from harbor freight to make yourself some strops for testing. You will have to buy the pastes and can use the webbing to test them and see what you like. I dont like paste on leather although many do. I find a softer medium to be better than balsa or even leather.

Are you talking to restore an edge or the razor, polish the razor?

To strop an edge you do not need all 4 in progression, Chrome Oxide is a good maintenance paste that can soften a harsh edge and add a bit of keenness.

I recently honed a razor for a new member and he brought a pasted strop with the White Thiers paste. It did appear to be similar to Diamond paste and his bevel was very shiny but harsh and chipped.

Test on a 12-16 inch piece of clean cardboard, placed on the edge of a table, poster board type like the unfinished inside of a cereal box.

Foam Core poster board is great for this, better than Balsa. Balsa can make a paste harsh and it scars easily.

Chrome Oxide has been the go to paste for years, it would be the one I would recommend as a first paste.

Thanks you very much all.
I have something to focus more:
The razor is a very vintage Klaas Prussia so maybe the steel and its tempering is not the top notch.
I have finished the edge on 10000 superstone (it cuts my forearm but extremely harsh shave)
Maybe should be better to take also the 12000.

Do you think an old blue jeans cotton could be ok or I need some new stiffer cotton web?

I have difficuly in understand exactly what a "Foam Core poster board" is, please could you provide a pic?

About the mastrolivi crayon I don't like very much crayon I think I'll go buying the kremer pigment so I can choose the right medium/carrier.

You can easily make some strops from old jeans and many have. Have you checked the edge under magnification tp make sure there are no issues with the edge. It should cut arm hair at skin level easily at 1k. By 10 you should be tree topping arm hair without tugging. Further explanation might help to help you

Foam Core poster board is use for making architectural models and school projects, it comes in a variety of thickness but commonly is a thin about 4-6 mm of foam sandwiched between two pieces of thin cardboard. Here in the US is sells for between a dollar and five dollars for a 36X48 inch piece.

You can use denim but it frays easily and if you sew it, you have the seam to deal with, that is not flat.

Canvas or better Polyester Canvas, Sail cloth is a much better solution, you can cut it and the edge will fray very little because of the weave. I use sailcloth all the time.

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