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Just recieved my new 3" buffalo. & linen strop. I noticed these two nicks. Will this affect the razors edge? I don't wanna,send it back if it's gonna be okay to use. I'm assuming it will be fine, but I'm no expert.
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...pslsup7ypv.jpg
Roughly 4.5" from the handle.
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...pszczto7bw.jpg
From the picture it looks like these nicks are approximately two inches from the end of the strop. If that's the case, it probably won't affect the strop function. However, if it was mine, I would contact the supplier and ask them. Hopefully, they will make a determination for you on whether to replace the strop or not.
if you are going to keep the strop you can glue those down with little bit of rubber cement. Stick it down let it dry and then take any extra glue off by brushing away from the fla direction with a white eraser .
Those nicks don't look much deeper than the grain in the leather. But, if it's right in the middle of your lap? It would drive me crazy if I could feel it. If you spent a lot on it contact the seller. If your just learning it may wind up being the first of many. Your call.
Since its removable, I've contacted the seller to see if he can send a replacement panel, so I can swap it out. It's a bit of OCD thing. My only real concern is it's effect on the razors edge. I would think it's minimal given the grain.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
I'm gonna be swapping out my Scottish Shell for this one. Hopefully it is a worthwhile choice.
You can always start your stropping stroke after the nick. I just sand them out if they are small nicks and if they are bigger cuts I would as rezdog mentioned use rubber cement or personally I have used crazy glue.
I agree with Pups... The feel of that would drive me crazy regardless of whether it had any negative impact on the performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
Did you buy that new? And received it that way? If so, return it.
If you bought it pre-owned, it's another story. I would repair it and see how it feels. It looks to be a very small, shallow nick and it should be pretty easy to repair it.
Swapping out your Scottish Shell for that?! I would only do that if your shell strop is severely compromised. The one you pictured has a very textured (for most strops) surface, it has wrinkle lines in it, the tab is put on at an angle and the marks are well into your clear stropping length.Quote:
Originally Posted by lethalgraphix
BUT - its your opinion that counts. It may give a superlative edge - only a person who has used it can say it does, though.
Regards,
Neil
I feel the Shell has an extremely fast draw. I've tried conditioning, but it's still super slick (effortless) unless tilhis is normal and prefered. The other reason is the buffalo is a 3", and the shell is 2.5".Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Miller
I thought it wod be better.
Shell is supposed to have a very slick, near effortless draw, which makes stropping seem fast - you should always keep it under control, though, to prevent injury to the strop.
Whether or not it is the preferred draw is up to you. Many say it is and it is part of the reason why so many people appreciate Shell strops. Others prefer a mild draw or a heavier draw. In many ways it is a personal thing. I myself may use a medium draw strop to bring the razor's edge up quickly, then finish on shell.
Also 3 inch wide strops are not essential - they are a luxury item. They do not do anything better than a 2.5, 2.25 or 2 inch strop - they just get the job done a bit quicker. While you might think you would just draw the razor up and down, it is a better thing to use a kind of 'x' stroke, the 2.5 inch strop is excellent for this, while thinner strops practically force you to use this stroke.
The buffalo strop may well be better for you - if you can get a new panel then by all means do so. I would compare the buffalo against the shell before you get rid off the shell, though. Can't beat a side-by-side comparison.
I wish you luck,
Neil
Isaw a thread here yeserday about strop prep, or something like that, but i can't find it now. 5-6 steps for strop prep or care. I'm worried about the leather grain. Should it be smooth, do I need to sand or prep the new strop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Miller
I can't say that I have seen that article, but practically no new strop in production today should require anything extensive in the way of 'breaking in' - that was for strops of another age, that had to rubbed with bottles and lather, or for hard, stiff genuine russian strops that needed the stiffness taken out of them.
Nearly every new strop is ready for use. Generally all they need is hand rubbing. This warms the leather a little making it a bit more supple (not to any great degree, though) and should alert you to any abrasive dust or nicks that you missed with your eye, but to me the main reason is slowly building up (or maintaining) the oil in the strop - it prevents the leather strands from closing up and making the leather unfit for use by losing too much water.
Strop conditioners do the same thing, but honestly they are rarely needed, certainly not necessary for the first 6 months to a year or more.
Neetsfoot oil is applied usually if you bought a strop with an unsuitable draw. It lets you (attempt) to modify the draw, but requires great sensitivity and knowledge to apply it. If you go for the right draw first you will probably never need it.
Back to the leather surface. Preferably it should be smooth. This is usually done by milling and imprinting a new surface (aka corrected grain), but yours looks fair faced and shows the animals skin. It does not have to be 100% smooth, as anything 'under' the blade (pits, etc) will not contact the blade, only high spots hit the bevel. If it needs sanding right from the get-go, then it is not suitable for stropping on - unless the maker alerted you to this fact.
Regards,
Neil
Just to add something that might be in your mind,,, smooth does not mean fast/less draw. I have a few different strops and they are all smooth. Some no draw, some heavy draw, but all smooth. And just because the draw is light, doesn't mean you have to go fast. It's just easier too :<0)
I recall Glen saying.. "Slow is Smooth, and Smooth is Fast"Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
I know he says this about honing, but I believe it applies to stropping as well.
Moving slowly encourages a smooth stroke. A smooth stroke will yield the desired result more quickly...