http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psnblrwio9.jpg
One soaking in oxi clean, scrub then air dry. Followed 2 days later with a soak in Gain detergent, scrub brush then a clear water rinse. Linen wasn't very yucky so I called it DONE.
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http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psnblrwio9.jpg
One soaking in oxi clean, scrub then air dry. Followed 2 days later with a soak in Gain detergent, scrub brush then a clear water rinse. Linen wasn't very yucky so I called it DONE.
On to the leather repair. The area where there was a cut would actually fold up as if it were delaminating. Based on recommendations, I used DAP contact cement. I used a toothpick to put just a little under the flap and smoothed out with a bourbon glass. (Empty...well at least to start). I probably didn't need to, but I clamped the area with a hand clamp to insure "flattness"
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After 24 hours, I used 1500 grit sandpaper to smooth out the area as smooth as possible.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...pselrylcz6.jpg
And now on to "rehydrating" the strop. For this I am using neatsfoot oil. This strop is REALLY dry to the point you hear fibers cracking if you bend it at all. The last strop I did I drenched the strop in neatsfoot. This time I am going a little slower. Putting a thin coat every 12 hours orso to allow it to absorb fully.
More to come.......
*** Side note, when wiping down the strop with a damp rag, I opted to try and use saddle soap. I never got it to foam up so I have probably "stained" the center of the strop a dark color. No damage, just not as aesthetically pleasing. ***
You could also go with an application or two or neatsfoot oil to the back of the strop if it is that dry. Give it a very good rub down with your hand before the next coat. If the heat from your hand starts to draw oil from the strop you already have more than enough. As soon as the warmed surface stops feeling dry and start to feel supple you have put enough on. It is easy to ad more later if you choose but taking it back is not easy
I have an issue with the back side of the strop. The leather is REALLY dry and cracked and what I would call "glazed". I am not certain if it will absorb oil, so I am curious if I should lightly sand through some of this. Your thoughts?
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I would just put a light coat of oil on it and see what happens. The back side is not normally used but is a way of getting penetration of the oil from both sides, helping to revive the leather a little faster.
I would put a light coat on the back, and let it soak overnight. Even glazed leather will absorb oil. The fibers in leather are like little hollow straws. They will wick it from the surface to the interior. In shell leather like this, they run in all directions, so will absorb even better. Linen looks great, and the repair looks pretty good too. The leather will likely darken as you put oil on it. If you are doing light coats, it should come back to or at least close to it's original color.
Thanks for your guidance on this. While I am not unhappy with the last strop I did (I practically bathed it in oil) I am/have been following your guidance on this one, and doing multiple light coats, spaced apart from each other, to allow the fibers to soak in slowly.
I have to say, it's killing me to do so with my ADHD!
Great thread and thank you all for sharing.
I have a King Shell that came in with some bay razors that is in pretty good shape (pics to follow)
The second strop is pressed leather with Crox in pretty good shape.
The shell side is a little dirty, still very supple but it has a cut on one edge that I think will close up well with contact cement.
My question to the group is the order of repair.
I was thinking:
Fix the cut
Sand if necessary
Gently clean the grim with saddle soap
Condition if nessiscary
Leave the Crox side alone for the moment.
Is that the correct order?
Ahh. This is where Neil would come in with a ton of knowledge and sort it all out. RIP.