CrOx Contamination on Loom Strop

I was recently fortunate enough to get my hands on a ever so slightly used Streich-Riemen loom strop with one side pasted with 0.5 crox.

The first thing I noticed when I received it was that the crox was absolutely pasted on, almost matted, even with chunks remaining. No big deal as I can obviously wipe the excess off and carry on with life, but it also looks like it was put back in the box it comes in with the wax paper reversed, so the side of the wax paper that touched the pasted side then touched the clean leather side, such that there appears to be some contamination, as evident by a very slight discolouration (most visible in the second picture, about 1/4 of the way from the end). What I'm wondering is this:

1) how big of a deal is this? Am I over-thinking something that just isn't a major issue, given that the cross contamination?
2) if it is an issue, what's the best approach here? I'm been reading the forums all day and saddle soap comes up often; so too does a light high grit sanding followed by reconditioning the leather.

If anyone has run into this problem before or has any advice I would certainly value your experience.

Kind regards,
Paul

Attachment 295615
Attachment 295616

CroOx is always geen, AFAIK. Either it was pasted with FeOx, (Which is red and finer than CroOx) or some other strop paste, I don't know.
Start with a damp cloth to remove, smooth.
If you get it nice and uniform, it may be a great thing. I cannot see how to get it all out?

Thing looks NOS. The red looks factory-applied?
A paste, I think..

If the razor was not wiped-well it may have taken some of the paste to the 'clean' side. It happens?

Only documented and educated experimentation will reveal the answer.

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

CroOx is always geen, AFAIK. Either it was pasted with FeOx, (Which is red and finer than CroOx) or some other strop paste, I don't know.
Start with a damp cloth to remove, smooth.
If you get it nice and uniform, it may be a great thing. I cannot see how to get it all out?

Thing looks NOS. The red looks factory-applied?
A paste, I think..

If the razor was not wiped-well it may have taken some of the paste to the 'clean' side. It happens?

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Thanks. It could very well be FeOX -- I am, unfortunately, colourblind and can't tell green from red. I haven't used it yet, but of course it may have also been from the previous owner. I'll try giving it a very gentle wipe; even if there is a minimal amount of contamination, would it really affect things so much, I wonder.

Mastro Livi recommends using lighter fluid to clean his strops, never tried it myself.
I would leave it as is as it dosnt seem too bad. Just remember to wipe your razor if using the pasted side.
As Tom said its probably FeOx.

Its ruined, just box it back up and send it to me for "proper" disposal:rofl2:

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Originally Posted by markbignosekelly

Mastro Livi recommends using lighter fluid to clean his strops, never tried it myself.
I would leave it as is as it dosnt seem too bad. Just remember to wipe your razor if using the pasted side.
As Tom said its probably FeOx.

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I've used the lighter fluid on toilet paper to clean it off and it works like a charm. Just rub lightly and use new paper after a wipe or 2 to avoid just smudging the stuff around.

Looks like it was sold that way with pre-charged Solingen ferric-oxide, red tube stuff (allegedly 2-4 microns). Assuming that the surface is now even, it's probably best to use it as such, for touch-ups or off a mid-to-fine range stone. As for the contamination on the other side, I cannot speak to lighter-fluid, but maybe it will work as mentioned. Trying to clean it with a water-dampened rag is what I would probably try first.

In any case, if the contamination stays there, all is not lost. Assuming that you would be using the strop for the pasted side, you could then use the "contaminated" leather side as a dedicated surface for cleaning the blade prior to moving to a larger hanging strop.

I had heard from a collector of German WWII items that the Med service used Similar strops for the medical razors ( Swert and Wapi) to sharpen them between uses. Mystrop came with a Green paste layer on it. Hones were not used.
JMO, YMMV
~Richard

Another thing comes to mind, but folks may take issue with it here, fearing rancidity. In France, I have seen people use olive oil to apply pigment to toothy Russian leather or low-sanded (~P180), vegetable-tanned leather. Following this, if the pasted is side is caked up because it has dried out, one can simply pour out a teaspoonful of olive oil onto a saucer, then dab the pad of one's thumb into it and then gently work small amounts of oil as needed into the pasted surface using a circular motion. The dried, caked, cracked pasted surface then becomes refreshed and workable so as to spread it out more evenly.

A note....Devise a way to reach-in and scrub-out the box good. If these strops are inserted the wrong way, the paste will be applied to the other side. As you clean out the box, insert the strop pasted-side down only to prevent this from happening.

Nice strop, BTW!

Thanks everyone! I'm going to give the lighter fluid solution (pun intended!) a go and see how that turns out. I think I may actually try olive oil too as a way of refreshing the paste. One the things that caught my attention early on was that the unpasted side never looked quite as straight up leather ought to, or even how the unpasted ends are; I've come to think there might actually be some conditioning paste on that side too. It's turning into quite an interesting little experiment!

Maybe it goes without saying, but however you fix things, it would be good to change the paper liner since the paste has transferred to both sides there. Usually these are made from European brown craft paper which differs from American craft paper in that the European style is thinner, smoother, and ribbed. Can't speak to Canada, but in the States I have found it in art-supply and office-supply stores and even in dollar-type stores. As you have a piece there, you will know what to look for. Once found, cut a piece to match based on the dimensions of the original.

I have the same loom strop but mine has the green paste on it.. My plain leather side also got some of the green transferred over and i was a little worried myself at the time.. I thought about my options and went with the "This is not a big deal until i find out it is approach" I didnt do anything besides making sure i did not transfer anymore green paste to the other side... Ive had the strop for awhile now and i have not put anything on it, just like my hanging strops i palm rub the leather side before use and if using paste side a quick wipe with my hand in case of any debris.. Both sides work great and i use it quite regularly... Scott W

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Originally Posted by Brontosaurus

Another thing comes to mind, but folks may take issue with it here, fearing rancidity. In France, I have seen people use olive oil to apply pigment to toothy Russian leather or low-sanded (~P180), vegetable-tanned leather. Following this, if the pasted is side is caked up because it has dried out, one can simply pour out a teaspoonful of olive oil onto a saucer, then dab the pad of one's thumb into it and then gently work small amounts of oil as needed into the pasted surface using a circular motion. The dried, caked, cracked pasted surface then becomes refreshed and workable so as to spread it out more evenly.

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I am sure folks used whatever oil they had available, and in France and Southern Europe, olive oil is the most likely. However, as you mentioned, it will eventually oxidize and become rancid due to the high concentration of mono-saturated fatty acids (oleic acid). If you want to use a vegetable fat, then coconut oil might be a better candidate as it is largely composed of saturated fatty acids.

If you do not like using a flammable substance like lighter fluid or paint thinner (mineral spirits), you can use mineral oil. I suspect neatsfoot oil would work as well. The more volatile lighter fluid and mineral spirits will eventually evaporate (use in a well ventilated location), the mineral and neatsfoot oils would remain behind as leather conditioners.

I wouldn't worry about it to much. You cleaned it with lighter fluid. Just use it & love it!

Dave Huffman

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Originally Posted by ppetresen

Thanks everyone! I'm going to give the lighter fluid solution (pun intended!) a go and see how that turns out. I think I may actually try olive oil too as a way of refreshing the paste. One the things that caught my attention early on was that the unpasted side never looked quite as straight up leather ought to, or even how the unpasted ends are; I've come to think there might actually be some conditioning paste on that side too. It's turning into quite an interesting little experiment!

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I would use Ballistol instead of olive oil but that is just me.
Dave H.

Those loom strops came pasted with Chrome Oxide, (Green) or Ferrous Oxide (Red). Two-sided pasted strop are easily contaminated.

You can remove or smooth out paste with lighter fluid, WD40 or most any light oil. Neetsfoot, Olive oil or Ballistol works well and the olive oil will not go rancid unless stored in an air tight container or over applied.

There is a well-known leather worker/carver who finishes his leather in and recommends olive oil on his work.

I have used WD40 to smooth or remove paste from these strops. Spray on a paper towel and wipe, it will melt and smooth the paste and will completely remove most of the paste. You can never completely remove all the paste from leather. Once it gets into the pores it is there for life.

But, not to worry. Years ago, a few of us stropped and shave with the same razor daily on Chrome Oxide, for over a year to see what would happen. After a week or two, all the visible stria was removed, and the edge reached a plateau of very nice keenness and continued without any ill effect to the razor and edge. I have also use Ferrous Oxide extensively, it is finer than Chrome Oxide with much the same polishing properties, now days I use CBN.

So, you can clean the clear leather side removing as much paste as possible, though a little will remain on the clear side, but will do no harm. You could smooth or completely remove the pasted side and re-paste but probably what has happened is you leather has dried and wicked the oils from the pasted side.

Dampen you strop with a sponge with warm water wait 15-20 minutes for the water to wick into the leather, then apply Ballistol, Neatsfoot, or Olive oil sparingly. You can dampen the under side of the leather on the pasted side or both.

Apply few drops of oil on a paper towel applied to the leather. If you have dry spots you can blot the towel on the spots and let the leather wick the oil from the towel. Wait a few days to a week to see if the oil has spread out evenly and if needed re apply, dampening with warm water first and allowed to absorb. The water opens the pores of the leather and allows the oil to penetrate deep into the leather. Too much oil will clog the pores and rot the leather. I use about a half a teaspoon on a long hanging strop.

So, an update:

Lighter fluid worked really well to get the contamination off of the clear side of the strop, but between that and the age it also needed to be reconditioned. I give it some neatsfoot oil which it absolutely soaked up. The colour and draw are a bit different but I'm happy with how it worked out.

For better or worse, I took some drastic measures and also decided I wanted to reapply the pasted side so I likewise tried to get as much of it off as possible. My logic is this: if it really is a red crox, then great, I'll replace it with some of the green stuff I have; since the grit is approximately the same it shouldn't matter too much. Alternatively, if the red stuff could be the much finer 0.1 stuff, which I wasn't overly interested in, going to up to 0.5 should be fine. Neither WD40 nor lighter fluid was able to get the pasted side even remotely clear, so I instead took to sanding the leather down and refinishing the side. I haven't re-pasted it yet, but I'm also happy with how it has turned out, though the grain has of course changed a bit (see pictures). Overall, it's been a pretty interesting little experiment.

The formerly pasted side:
Attachment 296727

The clear side after it was reconditioned with neatsfoot oil:
Attachment 296728

Did you use a belt-sander?

The problem with sand paper on a strop is the risk of imbedding loose grit in the leather. One grain can ruin an edge.

I prefer to scrape leather with a sharp cabinet scraper, it also leaves a napped finish on leather, like a fine suede, that takes paste well.

Make sure your “Green Stuff” is pure Chrome Oxide or you could be contaminating the leather with other unknown and of unknown grit size abrasive. Some polishing compounds, contain very little if any Chromium Oxide and while it will polish the bevel, will leave a rough shaving edge.

Pure Chrome Oxide and Ferrous Oxide can be purchased from Kramer Pigments inexpensively.The color and draw will calm down once the oil is absorbed into the leather in a week or two.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Did you use a belt-sander?

The problem with sand paper on a strop is the risk of imbedding loose grit in the leather. One grain can ruin an edge.

I prefer to scrape leather with a sharp cabinet scraper, it also leaves a napped finish on leather, like a fine suede, that takes paste well.

Make sure your “Green Stuff” is pure Chrome Oxide or you could be contaminating the leather with other unknown and of unknown grit size abrasive. Some polishing compounds, contain very little if any Chromium Oxide and while it will polish the bevel, will leave a rough shaving edge.

Pure Chrome Oxide and Ferrous Oxide can be purchased from Kramer Pigments inexpensively.The color and draw will calm down once the oil is absorbed into the leather in a week or two.

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No, no belt sander, just 320 grit wet/dry. I was pretty worried about loose grain embedding too, but it feels good so I think I got away with it. A cabinet scrapper would have been a good idea though.

Thanks for the tip on the Chrome Oxide. I'm not sure Kremer Pigments ships to Canada, at least not cheaply. I was checking out some of the pastes at Maggard Razors and they seem to have both good reviews and are very affordable, at least as far as I can tell.