Bill Barber AKA Pixelfixed, loom strop recreation.

Evening gentlemen.
I’ve started this thread to capture the journey of recreating one of the finest examples of a loom strop I’ve ever seen, but not held.
Bill Barber, Pixelfixed, was a member of SRP that has sadly gone ahead but will be missed as well as remembered by many members of the forum still here and still shaving.

https://sharprazorpalace.com/strops/...oom-strop.html

The above is the thread to the strop that was the inspiration for the challenge for this thread.
A beautiful strop made from exotic hardwoods and organic materials fused with modern steel and brass hardware, and quality latigo leather. Precisely built, with effective tensioning as well as lateral rigidity.

Sounds easy, lol.

Being who I am I wanted to make more than one as the expected mistakes along the way may ruin one prototype, but not likely all three of them. :)

I was stuck at the theory point of the project for almost a year as I was busy, and didn’t have anything but the above thread to build from. No measurements and no way to take it apart to reverse engineer.
Thankfully the owner and no longer active member took some measures for me and sent them my way just this winter. Thanks John, Miss you on here buddy.
With those dimensions, and a part purchased after the holidays for my little metal lathe I had everything needed to start into it.

So for your viewing and copying pleasures see below;
Attachment 317029
Started with my approximate sizes of 3 3x2x1” blocks of cocobolo, babinga, and ebony respectively. All cut from a single block of each material.
These all get slightly smaller as you plane sand and dial these in. But I maintained grain direction and orientation throughout the builds.
Attachment 317030
Acquired and cut horsehide, not latigo into 2 1/2” wide strop strips for the strops.
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8mm stainless steel rods, threaded down to 5/16 thread provides the alignment and strength of the finished strops.
More to come.
Cheers.

I went slightly astray from Bill’s design in my choice of brass threaded inserts in the base blocks , but think he’d approve the deviation.
Attachment 317032
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Custom turned top caps which are something I never would have thought of but really think help set the finished piece apart.
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And handles comprised of multiple materials all keyed together before bonding, then Turned to final shape.
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All coming together to look like this.
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But after staining the initial 5 Oz hide with some dye from Michaels and leaving the strops under tension a few nights I discovered the hide is separating.
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I left them quite taut, but that was the point of the test, and to me the leather, or dye has failed.
Not being a leatherologist I am experimenting here and think the dye hardened the surface maybe, and then when I stretch it on the loom, it cracked along little fissures and the results, well, no good for strops.
So plan B is go with aniline dye, which I have for wood projects predominantly, but hear is really good on leather too.
Attachment 317038
This stuff is more translucent and actually leaves a very soft, almost buttery feel to the leather.
The black test piece is a solvent base, the gray, the aniline.
Anyway, that’s where I’m at now.
Think the aniline stuff is more like a tattoo and will get into the cells without casehardening the skin. The leather strips I already did in black will be ok for hanging strops as they never get stretched like a loom, so not a total loss. Just the price of educating myself.
Cheers guys.
Thanks for looking.
:chapeau

Very nice Mike. A fine job you have done. A little more work and the leather will work out great.

:beer2::popcorn::beer1:

Thanks for sharing Mike, does the threaded rod go all the way through?

If it is any consolation, natural leather is beautiful, in fact I prefer it not dyed. However I understand your tenacious requirement to solve all puzzles thrown at your feet. The project looks amazing. I’m glad to see you making progress on your long planned project, and the fingers working better and better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tintin

Thanks for sharing Mike, does the threaded rod go all the way through?

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The center rod is 3/8th and is threaded such that it floats through the upper wood and threads into the second bar which is the top of the leather strop section.
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The bases are threaded into the brass inserts, then locked down with brass washers and jam nuts.
Attachment 317042
The tops, lock by spinning the tops down first against the washers, then snugging everything tight from underneath on the jamb nuts there.
In use as the handle is twisted it either draws the second wooden bar closer or further from the top and controls the leather tension that way.
Attachment 317043
And regarding the dye, I hear ya shaun and will be keeping the babinga and brass one au natural but do want to figure this out so I’m running some tests swabs.
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Appreciate the feedback all. Really has/is taken a while, but so what. It’s fun.
Hell, I spent hours just chasing the threads such that’s when it’s all together there isn't any unnecessary threads above the jamb nuts. And since so far, I haven’t pooched any of the sets, but they are all slightly different sizes, there was a lot of assemble, measure, disassemble, clamp, count turns and repeat.
Attachment 317045
My wife has stopped asking me if I’m almost done, she doesn’t believe my ‘yup, almost’ anymore, hehe.
:beer1:

So cool Mike, I remember Bill would occasionally post one of these superb creations of his, was never the right time, I'd always just purchased a new razor, and it'd be gone within minutes.

Looks great, and another fine job my friend! :-)

Andrew. Good to see your still around. Finally got a bottle of blue Floyd from Dave at the Texas meet. Then promptly dropped it and broke it. So I need to call mission impossible guys up to figure out how to smuggler that bottle you have. I haven’t cryed since I wrecked an old Harley. But that bottle hitting the pavement hurt my feelings��

Blue Floyd braised brisket and bourbon anyone??
Hmmm..

So, is the handle/threaded rod just held against the base from the tension of the strop or is there some kind of retaining ring holding it?
That is interesting about the dye. I don't know what kind you use but i've always been pleased with Fiebings Pro dye It gives a nice solid color but i don't know if it has the same effect on the leather as what you used.

Wow, those are amazing works of art, Mike. I think Bill/Pixelfixed would be pleased. Is that black and white ebony? I have been ogling the extensive collection of it that Cook Woods has, and have been meaning to order some-I think it's prettier even than black ebony.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Andrew. Good to see your still around. Finally got a bottle of blue Floyd from Dave at the Texas meet. Then promptly dropped it and broke it. So I need to call mission impossible guys up to figure out how to smuggler that bottle you have. I haven’t cryed since I wrecked an old Harley. But that bottle hitting the pavement hurt my feelings��

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Bottle still here with your name on it.

If we have another GTG this summer, and someone is up from the US, I'm sure we will work something out.

The 3/8th tensioner is threaded and glued into the handle, and there is a locking collar under the top brace that holds the handle firm to the top piece but with enough clearance to rotate on the brass either side of the wood. It seems to hold very true, so I have not run the 3/8th rod all the way to the base, but may if it looks like there is stability issues once they are all assembled.
The top piece is locked via the threads and jamb nuts to the base piece, which is also threaded and jamb nutted onto the 8mm rods. So only that middle piece moves and only up and down, no side play as the rods once tightened keep the frame ‘box’ straight and tight.
The ebony I used is the mottled stuff from India as opposed to Africa. I too like the patterning more than just solid black with grain that the Gabon stuff has.
Attachment 317082
I went with fossilized mammoth ivory inlays in two of the handles.
The coco has a thin strip of ancient irish bog oak in the handle, as well as brass.
The ebony is steel accents, and mammoth ivory.
Attachment 317083
Laying multiple coats of the aniline on adds some nice depth to the hide.
This may be a blessing in disguise.
The splitting was only at the corners, top and bottom, not mid strop so maybe I’m just being fussy.
The stuff I used was also fiebings, but not their pro series.
I’ve also tried some dye and solvent based stuff for ink jet printers, and while very black, it was not good for the skin.
I have lots of aniline though so will run these trials out then decide if natural is really the best solution for the hide quality.
Attachment 317084
At the end of the project, hide quality and feel against the blade is the ONLY thing that matters.
Fancy hardware and framework mean butkiss if the leather isn’t ideal..
:tu

Purchased some new fiebings, water based black once i realised i had no black aniline dye on hand.
Did mix up some fresh green though to compare to the water based black.
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On the second coat i bumped the black dauber accidental against the green one so decided to try to antique it with swatches of black.
I also went with 7-8oz horse this time instead of the 5oz as on the first go.
Maybe the 5 was to thin for a loom and would have split when wound as tight as i left them regardless.
I went beyond where I’d tension them for use intentionally as i wanted to see how they would hold up to high tension over time.
I think most users would never wind it that taut.
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Both hides are softening up nicely as they dry.
Looks promising.
:tu

I am curious Mike, have you considered roo hide?

Yes I have Scott.
Never tried roo at all, but interested, if I can source some hide.
This week it’s all about the hide finish.
Using my flat strop as my working experiment I’ve started to add hydration via mink oil to get through saturation without build up..
Been working my edges as well to both seal, and finish them properly.
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Best burnishing gum out there, hands down.
Apply by finger to edge, let soak a minute, and burnish with appropriate tool.
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And the finish is hard to capture but,
Attachment 317284
It is smooth and fast. But the edges seem to cup a bit. More attention, beveling, and rubbing still required.
Cheers gents.

Got a bit more done on the weeekend with the horsehide.
Attachment 317483
With the right skive the trimming got easier on the second sets of skins.
Attachment 317484
Gorilla glued them clamped up for 24 hrs.
Attachment 317485
And putting the wooden pieces through the polishing compounds and wheels.
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Nearly done, and this thicker hide is perfect for loom strops.
Attachment 317488
Treated the hide, after dying, with mink oil from the front, and a mixture of thinned neatsfoot from the rear over a number of days. Coupled with lots of hand kneading and working the skin while watching the news.
;)

Sweet Mary, those are beautiful.

From just a tool to a work of art. Great looking pieces.

Bob

Very well done.
Great craftsmanship!

Looks so good id be afraid to use it. Lol. You have made a top notch strop!

Outstanding, Mike.

Serious loom strop pr0n, Mike, and what incredible attention to the details! :)

Only in Canada, you say. Pity.

WOW!!

I don't have a first born, but I think I can get one going if you're willing to trade!

Really appreciate the positive feedback gents. Been a lot of fun making these and trying to walk a mile in Bill’s shoes.
Expect these are just about completed now.
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The one that most mattered, cocobolo, mammoth ivory inlays and handle end, ancient irish bog oak band, and brass. Dyed horsehide.
Attachment 317516
The handle should darken to match the base wood with time as the oils come to the surface. The handle was turned from more center wood so I guess is lighter, not sure.
This in babinga and brass, with 44 caliber accents. Natural horsehide, sueded on the backside.
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And this one in ebony, ivory, and s.s.
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I opted for brass and s.s. covers up top to hide the leather splices as well as provide greater strength via 4 Chicago fittings which are threaded from the underside allowing for future hide replacement if the unthinkable should happen.
Attachment 317520
Couple more rubs with da mink, check hardware security one more time, and that’s all she wrote I think.
:chapeau

Your “first run” is pretty amazing.

WOW!!!!! Just WOW:dropjaw::dropjaw:

Beautiful work! You should be proud.

Very nice Mike, very nice indeed! :bow :tu

Holy cow Mike...
Those are spectacular!!
You should be very proud.

Pete <:-}

That is amazing work!

Beautiful work!!

You are both a craftsman and an artist, Mike-To take raw materials from nature and work lovingly with them to bring beauty into this world is one of the best things we can do, I think.

The combination of a useful tool and beauty to me is the pinnacle of art.