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can cerium oxide be applied to a tony miller linnen hanging strop? if so,can you still use the non pasted or flip side of the linnen strop? or do i have to buy another linnen strop? thanks also how many strokes on the oxide after a razor is run through 5 8 12k. thanks
I use the Pure Cerium powder, I use it on a 24 in Smooth Leather Bench strop, I apply it with neetsfoot oil as a carrier...
It can be used with Distilled Water and 1 drop of dish soap per ounce as a carrier too, for putting it on fabric...
You should have a separate fabric strop for everyday use...I think you could use one side for the Cerium and the other for everyday, I don't have any TM linen to know for sure
The Cerium is NOT Chromium there is a distinct difference, the Cerium is way finer (again note that I use the pure powder) I do 10 laps of CrOx a then 15 laps of CeOx after the hones and I haven't as of yet had a bad reaction from a razor ...
Please keep in mind that it will NOT make a razor sharper, and I haven't considered it for use as a re-fresher like Diamond and CrOx can be used, I can't say whether it would work like that ...
Hope that answers your questions...
Sorry for my ignorance, but what does it do? Impart a finer polish? Not looking for an argument here, genuinely a little confused.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
No yer right I was a little vague there,,, and yes it is a polish, normally used for Optical applications...
Now if we get to talking with an engineer they are going to point out that polishing does actually remove metal and therefore sharpens so yes I concede the technical aspect of polishing is still abrasive...
But for the purpose of using it on a straight razor, you can use many of the pastes as a "crutch" to help mediocre honing... that is what I actually meant is the Cerium would be a very weak crutch... So it would be near useless unless the razor was already honed correctly..
I hope that clarified it a bit
glen, could i apply the ce-ox to a SRD latigo hanging strop, i was looking to get an english bridle strop at some time anyway. thanks
When I use the Cerium, I use it in the form of the Yellowstone bars and it can be rubbed onto poly webbing, cotton and the back of leather strops. To me it is very similar to CrO, but probably a little finer and definitely a nice finishing polish. Actually, a decent refresher though although where I would use 10 strokes on CrO, I use about 15 with the Cerium.
Have fun,
Lynn
Lynn,
is the Yellowstone bar all cerium?
Where is it available?
Jerry
I would not use that good of a strop, I would either make one or buy a $32 Illinois #827, but hey if you have money to burn I don't see why it wouldn't...Quote:
Originally Posted by nessmuck
- YELLOWSTONE COMPOUND #514301
Quote:
Originally Posted by figaro
thanks for the advise on the #827 that sounds good. have you got some ce-ox instock for sale??Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
If you are going to try Cerium oxide, you should know that you want to be dealing with what is referred to as "Super Cerium". This optically graded cerium is white rather than the reddish color of most cerium’s.
Super Cerium is said to be .5 micron or less in grit size and the Yellowstone Bar that Lynn referred to is colored more white than anything. I bought a full pound of Super Cerium powder which will last me about four lifetimes.
I use it wth water on stretched denim but I like Glenn's idea of using neatsfoot oil on a strop.
You can buy it at www.deltaonelapidary.com and several other businesses if you search it....... :)
YELLOWSTONE STROP COMPOUNDHerb Dunkle and family have spent a goodly amount of time convincing us thatYellowstone is the best strop abrasive. They talked about a lot of technicaldetails as to why but all we know is that it works. Just a little on thestrop is all that it takes for a razor edge. 1" x 1"x 4" block.ITEM CATALOG NUMBER PRICE Yellowstone (really it is peach colored) SH005 $6.25 ea
__________________________________________________ ___
I don't know if SRD sells this compound. If not, the above ad is at Sharpening by Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers Supply
Hope this helps someone........We report, you decide.
Charging SRP's poly web with this stuff is the best thing that ever happened to my razors. It is awesome period.
I don't mean to make a big thing of it here, but I disagree that it's a "crutch" for bad honing. I think the pastes offer a finer finishing option than the "finishers" you can normally get a hold of. For instance, I can go from a Nani 12K to CrOx paste and get a really nice edge, and both of those are really easy to find online. Whereas the edge I get off a Thurry is great without paste, but first I have to find one available and then sneak the funding into my PayPal so I can pay for it outside of the wife's radar.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I'm not even sure you can correct bad honing with a pasted strop. Maybe you can push the edge a little better, but IMLE, if I honed a razor poorly I'll need to take it back to the hones to get it shaving really well. The pastes just don't have the cutting power of the hones.
Actually you don't need any hone after a 1k to set the bevel..
We (SRP) are a hone based forum we believe in hones/stones to get us shaving, but that is not the only path...
You can set the bevel with a 1k or there about, and go to a loom strop with Dovo Green/Red/Black and shave perfectly fine...Or diamond pastes, or iron and aluminum oxides...
So yes pastes can be a HUGE crutch, just because you or I don't use them that way, does not mean the option isn't there
I'm sure it is. So I'm sitting here with a virgin webbed fabric strip, and a bag of Cerium oxide. Now what? Neatsfoot oil seems useless - who needs oiled fabric? Water and dish soap?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner
Soap is great. Just a little swipe from a bar of Ivory should hold your product nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeBerlin
That's very interesting, Lynn, thanks! I use something similar - stannous oxide. It is similar in hardness to cerium (around 9 on the Mohs scale) and use 15 to 20 laps. It is another good polishing finisher, and has a definite refreshing effect. It is applied to a leather strop mixed with a little water and is a white, super-fine powder.
Regards,
Neil
I'm guessing this is a response to my idea that you can't do much more than finish a razor with pastes. I stand corrected.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Not corrected, just a different way of looking at things...Quote:
Originally Posted by BingoBango
I didn't believe it at all until I actually tried it...
You guys got me pretty curious about getting this stuff to put on one of my now unused strops. I think I'll try out that bar of soap application trick.
So I pulled the trigger on the Yellow Stone stuff listed in the link above. If I want to apply it to a linen strop, can I apply it to the back of one of my TM strops, or will it bleed through? Can I rub a bar of bath soap (dove, etc) on the linen and then apply to strop this?
I would use it on the back of the leather strop but it would rub on the front linen side when hanging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Disburden
If you have the bar from Woodcraft use it as a crayon on your strop. The best medium that I have found is the poly webbing, As an added bonus try the reverse side of that strop after a month or so. Nice surprises await!
If you are using the pure powder try the Wool Linen Combo from SRD. That setup is a must have! The possibilities are endless.
So moving to pastes is like methadone weening in HAD rehab?;)
Must say all you guys have got me curious...
One of the sources of confusion is the difference between finalQuote:
Originally Posted by AlanII
steps when honing a razor and everyday stropping.
Everyday stropping is not the same as the final steps
after honing on rocks (natural and man made). Everyday
stropping clean canvas, clean leather. After honing and for
weekly to monthly touch ups, lightly pasted strops have a
good place.
IMO, With modern ultra fine hones it is possible almost easy
to develop an edge that is ultra fine, harsh and needs a final
touch up. The classic solution was the silica in charcoal/ soot from
straw or more recently CrOx. Another common tool or method for managing
a micro burr is the pyramid method of honing (works well!).
The nice thing about CeOx and CrOx is that as abrasives go they
are mild and fine. I have picked up some lengths of Tandy
leather and have made pasted strops of them. My $25 buck bit
of leather turned into two strops. Four sides.... clean, CeOx, CrOx
and 2 micron diamond. The way too stiff Tandy leather minimizes
the rounding (in my minds eye) and cleans up a freshly honed edge.
Makes for an improved shave regardless.
Like I said: "The nice thing about CeOx and CrOx is that as abrasives go they
are mild and fine." Thus you can used them a lot more than some classic
pasted strop dressings but still moderation applies.
If only I had a loom strop like Lynn's monster I would be a happy man.
I did see some hardware at Lowes.... :)
A pasted strop continues the hone. It carries on an abrasive process that polishes the edge of the blade to its highest level of refinement.
The smaller the size of the abrasive, the keener the blade.
Stropping has a peculiar effect on metal. Instead of compacting, and scrapping away metal, it washes and finishes the blade much like a wave levels a shore.
I like that ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner
+1
"...like a wave levels the shore."