What material is good for regular strops

I have been reading articles in the forum on strops. I hear terms like draw. Can someone tell me what this means? I'm assuming it means the resistance. What types of leather are good for strops and how smooth should it be? I was thinking of making a strop, so I would be interested in knowing this. I live near a Tandy Leather; would there be some pieces of leather to recommend?

I read an article where some use denim instead of leather. Are there any other materials that can be used; how would they compare?

The answer to mosyt of your questions will be revealed when you have used a real strop for a while

A strip of latigo would probably be a good place to start.
Sure you can use other types but I Think its important to learn to strop to recognice leather

Denim may be used as a fabrick strop in addition to the leather.
But i would prefer a seatbelt for the fabrick side

Leather has always been the classic final stropping surface and I don't think anyone has ever come up with something to best it.

The type of leather doesn't really make a difference. it's a matter of the leather being quality and nice and smooth with no fat marks or wrinkles. You don't want leather like cardboard unless you know it will break-in fairly easily.

As far as draw goes you right it's resistance. Some leathers have it in spades and some have none. Whether it has draw or not bears no relation to it's ability to do it's job.

You can use denim as an alternative for linen/webbed fabric etc. but as TBS says, the best final surface is leather.

Leather gives a burnishing effect to the edge and further refines it so it is an important step.

Tandy has pure cowhide straps that you can buy to make cheap paddle stops to learn how to strop. You, like me, and everyone else starting out, will make lots of small slices on the strop that ruin it. They can be sanded out, but it's better to just flip over the paddle, or make another one. You can even make a touch-up strop like the one in the Wiki video. Once you get it down, whether you make your own or purchase a nice one, look for "A" or #1, full grain, aniline treated leather. There are other treatments that others will suggest, but this where to start. If you don't slice it, and treat it properly, it can last decades.

Thanks for replies.

Is there any treatment I need to do to the leather. Some sand the leather; what is this for?

Do I need to treat it with some type of oil such as Neetsfoot or mineral oil?

Sanding is to just remove damage.....and the result is usually less than perfect. Don't sand a new strop. Look at the Wiki for new strop treatment. Strop treatment process is not a right/wrong list, but more a matter of the condition of the new material and personal preference. The "how-to" of stropping is a much more critical step.

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Originally Posted by binder

Thanks for replies.

Is there any treatment I need to do to the leather. Some sand the leather; what is this for?

Do I need to treat it with some type of oil such as Neetsfoot or mineral oil?

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I just went to Tandy leather myself. The have pre cut cowhide pieces that are 3 inches wide by 4 ft, I believe. I made some paddles, and the leather is awesome. I didn't have to do anything to it...

Yes, Draw is resistance, and a lot of it is personal preference. You'll hear lot's of stories about putting all kinds of stuff on your leather...I never do.
I just rub them with the palm of hand...

If you had to clean up some leather with saddlesoap for instance, then, and only then would I condition it with Neetsfoot oil, and btw, a little goes a long way....

Check out their Cowhide, tell the what your doing, The guys by me in Jacksonville were very, very helpful. He even gave some tips on leather workng...

I have pics on here somewhere of my paddles, you can check out the leather...I'll see if I can find it...

Here ya go:http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...dle-strop.html

It two on the right...the lighter colored leather...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zib

I just went to Tandy leather myself. The have pre cut cowhide pieces that are 3 inches wide by 4 ft, I believe. I made some paddles, and the leather is awesome. I didn't have to do anything to it...

Yes, Draw is resistance, and a lot of it is personal preference. You'll hear lot's of stories about putting all kinds of stuff on your leather...I never do.
I just rub them with the palm of hand...

If you had to clean up some leather with saddlesoap for instance, then, and only then would I condition it with Neetsfoot oil, and btw, a little goes a long way....

Check out their Cowhide, tell the what your doing, The guys by me in Jacksonville were very, very helpful. He even gave some tips on leather workng...

I have pics on here somewhere of my paddles, you can check out the leather...I'll see if I can find it...

Here ya go:http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...dle-strop.html

It two on the right...the lighter colored leather...

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I went to my Tandy yesterday, and they were out of the 3" strips. Since the 2" latigo strips were cheaper than the same length 2" cowhide strips, I went with the 2" latigo.

Importance placed on inspecting leather for imperfections, and surface inconsistencies.

You guys are in Jacksonville? Me too.. Where is tandy leather? Went to Delcher's today and picked up some remnants very cheap. He has enough to do a strop for about 3 bucks. Just have to dig to find the quality peices.. how much were the 3" x 4ft. pieces at tandy?

Veg tanned leather, not chrome tanned.

I've sanded leather to add the draw that I want to it. I sanded a piece of Tandy's veg tanned with just some 1500 grit sandpaper and the leather had a beautiful smooth draw after that. I've also tried no sanding and sanding from 200-1500 and prefer just using the 1500.

Yea, I would like to delete my comment about not sanding a strop, but don't see any edit ability yet. Maybe I don't have enough posts. I have started sanding my cowhide strops and then rubbing Fromms strop dressing into it and it's working out just fine. The sanding can leave large dry spots and need some kind of dressing to get it soft and smooth again. I've read that some people even glue big cuts and I would like to see how they do that and not develop hard spots. I have been using 400 grit wet sandpaper for the bigger nicks and 600 for the small marks. Natural cowhide softens quickly from the dressing, but I"m not sure how treated leather would respond with the lower grade sandpaper.