Texturizing Stropping Surface

I'm new to stropping and I've got a question thats bugging me. Being a DIY guy I wanted to try and make a strop with some leather from Tandy for my first one in case it gets hacked to pieces. The surface is quite smooth but a little uneven so I decided to use it for knives and such. To replace that I just got a Filly from RupRazor. The texture of the Filly is much different, much more like suede but seems likes its been texture or something like that.

Are strops cleaned up with some sort of abrasive or scraper to get a flat and even surface?

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Originally Posted by kyle485

Are strops cleaned up with some sort of abrasive or scraper to get a flat and even surface?

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short answer, yes.

You can see how I did it here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...eck-strop.html

I had to use mink oil to soften it and sand it with a sanding block and 400 grit wet/dry, alternating until it was smooth and flat

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Originally Posted by kyle485

I'm new to stropping and I've got a question thats bugging me. Being a DIY guy I wanted to try and make a strop with some leather from Tandy for my first one in case it gets hacked to pieces. The surface is quite smooth but a little uneven so I decided to use it for knives and such. To replace that I just got a Filly from RupRazor. The texture of the Filly is much different, much more like suede but seems likes its been texture or something like that.

Are strops cleaned up with some sort of abrasive or scraper to get a flat and even surface?

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As jockeys said... Yes.

The surface is a mater of preference. Your preference!

I assume you selected the 'best' bit you could find at Tandy.

Just dry and from the store that will strop a fine edge.

I like a bit more flex and oil on my strop so I apply
multiple small applications of Neatsfoot oil until I like
the feel of it.

Most leather can be tooled... i.e. wet and then with
tools reshaped. For a strop that shape is smooth
and flat. Many folk dampen their strop sometimes with
shaving lather or saddle soap and burnish it smooth
and flat with a bottle. After it drys rub some Neatsfoot
oil or Mink oil on the surface as needed.

The fuzzy back can also be used to strop. Again I find
a little Neatsfoot oil or Mink oil can help. Some strops
are purposely made with the fuzzy suede side as the
primary working side. I have sanded Tandy leather
and not sanded it using both sides... all work.
I decided "I Like" sanded better on the back fuzzy side
and use it pasted with CrOx. I dampen and bottle rub
the smooth side and use it with light applications of Neatsfoot oil
or Mink oil as needed. Mink oil is a bit gummy by
itself and Neatsfoot oil is a bit oily by itself. Little by
little to my liking. It is hard to take oil off.

As for the burnishing to get a flat side:
""Usually, tooling is done on "top grain" leather, the type with a smooth side (the
natural skin surface). And it is best done on vegetable-tanned leather that has
not been oiled or waxed in any way, so it's still pinkish or flesh-colored.
... Tooling Leather ...
If you're not sure, as always. Test.""

One thing I learned building my home made strops is that
the good strops are worth every penny. It is hard to find
leather that has a good surface for the full length. It is hard
to get it split to the correct thickness and it is hard to
get the right amount and type of surface prep for it to be any
good out of the box. Fittings, good canvas for the back and
so on are also hard to find in small quantities.

Now thats a whole lot of good advice. Thanks for the help guys!

Good to know!

Kyle:

The traditional tool to dress the surface of a strop is a pumice stone. Beauty & barber supplies carry them, and some drug stores like CVS and Walgreens, etc.

You would want something with flat sides like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

but not this:http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...uL._AA300_.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kyle485

I'm new to stropping and I've got a question thats bugging me. Being a DIY guy I wanted to try and make a strop with some leather from Tandy for my first one in case it gets hacked to pieces. The surface is quite smooth but a little uneven so I decided to use it for knives and such. To replace that I just got a Filly from RupRazor. The texture of the Filly is much different, much more like suede but seems likes its been texture or something like that.

Are strops cleaned up with some sort of abrasive or scraper to get a flat and even surface?

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I've made a few strops from the Tandy 3" strap... After some advise from sending them to a few people... I started sanding mine with a vibrating sander with 320 grit...

This leaves a nice soft suede surface and others like it too...

I do have a power sander from re-finishing my desk. I will give that a try before the pumice stone. The stone seems like it would be pretty aggressive.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kyle485

I do have a power sander from re-finishing my desk. I will give that a try before the pumice stone. The stone seems like it would be pretty aggressive.

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Seems like it might until you consider that pumice stones are used to smooth skin - which is what a strop is. A power sander on the other hand might actually be more aggressive. Experience will tell.

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Originally Posted by honedright

Experience will tell.

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Well yes it will...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honedright

Seems like it might until you consider that pumice stones are used to smooth skin - which is what a strop is. A power sander on the other hand might actually be more aggressive. Experience will tell.

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+1

and note that pumice is mostly fragile glass which
is less abrasive in the long term than the abrasive
in most sand/abrasive papers.

Pumice may have larger crystals of 'stuff' in with the glass
foam but the grain sizes are large enough to sweep off so eventually
it will be better for the strop.

But, I am not sure it really matters.
A power sander might do a better job
to the point that there is no problem
after you dust off the leather.

Pumice has worked well for me.

I have used both a pumice stone and sandpaper and both plugged up rather quickly. I finally settled on a belt sander with a used belt on it. Usually 400 grit. I can clean the belt using one of those "eraser/rubber" belt cleaners. That has worked well. The final step for me is to bottle rub in , a shaving lather or neatsfoot oil then burnish with just the bottle.

Take note of the advice to go slowly on the oils.

Just my $.02, :)