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I bought a strip of leather from a leather worker, and I got it cut 4" Wide, 36" long. In retrospect, I should have done some more research, and gotten a more useful size.
Either way, I was going to make the strop 4 inches wide, so that I don't have to worry about an "X" Pattern. Although, it seems like all other strops are approximately 2 1/2, 3 inches?
I'm just wondering if there's any benefit to making a strop thinner as opposed to wider (Or what width would you specifically suggest?)
Most razors are 3" or less so this is usually the max thickness that strops come in. You are right in that by using a wider strop you won't have to use an X stroke which is the appeal of a 3" strop but 4" is really too large as there is no added benefit to the extra width and you potentially have a greater risk of the strop cupping. I've seen other strops as narrow a 2" which requires a fairly sever X stroke but I believe a 2.5" is historically the width of choice. Thinner has less of a potential to cup while also being the most economical other than that I can't see any reason for a thinner strop.
I personally believe that there is a lot of benefit in doing some X stroke during stropping. The strops I make are 2.5" wide, and I believe that is the optimal width, not being too narrow, but still allowing for some X during the stroke. it also reduces the chances of cupping, etc, which can happen more easily on the wider strops.
Historically strops were generally narrower, usually closer to the 2" mark. The 3" strop is a fairly new invention.
The wider the strop the more chance for cupping. X strokes are always good. It's better to learn the right way and not use a wide strop as a crutch. Some do prefer wider and that's fine but one you learn to do it the classic way the width does not matter.
Alright, thanks for the advice. I'll make it 2.5", I'll post some pictures as soon as it's done.
Wow, that only took five or six years to finally come to maturity. I bet there are hundreds of 3 inch wide hones and 3 inch wide strops in the world just so people can "avoid" an x pattern.
Nelson, you hit that one on the head.
I like both sizes, but that is a damn good point. Jeez, I really yearn for a Sr. Member forum.
Here's the strop I made. Not bad for 2 hours work. Really wish I had gotten the rivets a bit better spaced, but it's not so bad.
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/2015/dscn5196w.jpg
I decided to loop through a rawhide shoelace for a handle to hold while you're stropping, but I wonder if over time it will cause the strop to cup? The leather is really quite stiff.
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6258/dscn5203ja.jpg
Lastly, the leather isn't perfectly straight, in fact there are minor hills and valleys that dont go away when taut. I used my practice razor on it, and you can hear it making different sounds as it rolls over some of the hills. What's the best way to make it as flat as I can make it?
Here's a (poor) picture of the shape of the leather.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/1344/dscn5205.jpg
So to sum up then, do you think the shoelace would cause cupping? And what's the best way to really flatten out my leather, without buying an oil or treatment?
EDIT: If the flanges look kind of loose or shabby, I havent tightened the chicago screws all the way, so they arent really clamped down yet.
Personally I would use that metal part you have at the top as a handle and get a D or a triangle shaped piece for the top. I can see that lace causing problems over time.
+1 I had to learn this as well. My 3" wide strop cupps while my 6.6 cm does not. So many times men on this site have suggested the importance of learning how to strop and hone with an "X" stroke. Their suggestion is invaluable. It has taken me some time to appreciate it. :banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by thehekler
Since you've used chicago screws (smart man) I would suggest that you replace the rawhide lace for Dee rings at both ends and re-attach your lace to one of those. While you have it in bits I would also suggest approaching a leather worker or Saddlers shop to see if they have what is called a 'leather splitter' on hand. Running the leather through the splitter and removing some of the flesh side of the leather will give the strop an even thickness and may fix those hills and valleys for you.
Apart from that I would suggest appling some leather treatment and running the leather over a smooth 90 degree angle or a glass bottle to help with that bumpy-ness.
Good luck, and next strop measure and mark where the rivet holes are going to go before punching them out. :)
Mick
Should have paid more attention to the photo's. Legion suggested that metal part as a handle, I'll back him up on that suggestion and just get something like a Dee for the other end.
The "leather splitter" refered to is called skiver by the leather and other industries. The verb is: to skive.
4" is probably a bit too wide.
I have an SRD 3" black latigo and a 2.5" roo hide from MickR. Both of these widths work very well for me and I wouldnt want anything wider. I dont need to do an X at all on the 3" and only a very slight one on the 2.5", and I definately wouldnt say either of those strops are tricky to use.
I started out on a 2" Dorko strop and I got used to the X stroke after about 3 shaves as well. Its quite an easy motion! :)
But I think you might find a 4" strop a little too wide perhaps.
Quite possibly nipper has it right as it applies to your own country However here in Australia and I daresay most other parts of the world, skiving is a similar but different technique to splitting and in the leather industry you will be looking for a leather splitter for the task I mentioned. Skiving, as such, is more a beveling of the edges rather than taking off leather on a larger scale. Splitting will take off the the entire width of the strap, to the depth you want, in one go. You can split with a well honed knife (I'm talking cut-throat razor sharp here. Literally!) and some practice, but a dedicated splitter will do the job with less fuss and no practice. You can buy hand skivers, but they won't measure up to the width your trying to thin down and the blades are curved, taking a deeper bite from the centre than the edges. I would look at going to a saddler's shop or similar (Shoe makers may help) and asking them to split the leather until it was even across the entire length.Quote:
Originally Posted by nipper
My statement is based on years of leather working experience, making whips, knife sheathes, pouches, necklaces etc, and most recently, though usually not necessary for the task, strop making.
Mick
to OP: i have a 6"x1.25" frame strop (like loom strop) that i like very much. Ive also heard of old strops that were no more than an inch wide. so go ahead and try the 1.5 inch strip of leather you have left over.
mickr: i've heard of leather splitting referred to as skiving (skeeving?). they were most certainly talking about what you are describing, and not beveling edges.
Well, I took the advice on using a triangle bracket for the top portion. I couldn't be bothered to shop around for one, so I bought some 3/16 cold rolled steel, and used my oxy/acet torch to make one, turned out great.
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/1814/dscn5224.jpg
My apologies for the blurry picture. I then just tied some rawhide to the other side to make a handle.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1621/dscn5232w.jpg
I was able to get most of the ridges out by burnishing the leather with a wine bottle. Thanks for the advice, everything turned out great.
Next project is to make that 1.5inch strop, and I might back the 2.5 one with linen eventually. Is there a specific type of linen to use, and how would you affix it to the back of the leather?
Well, I used the 1.5" strip and the last of my chicago screws--I think I'm going to use this one primarily for pocket/hunting knives.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7096/dscn5234m.jpg
Watch out for door knobs.Quote:
Originally Posted by carsonauto
I like to loop over both the inside and outside knob
so I am not pulling the knob. If you ever had an old
style knob come off and lock someone in the can
you will know why.