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What would be an optimal thickness of a leather strop for razors? Obviously, one can only get it "so" thick, but I would think that a thin strip of leather would not be preferred over one of 1/8" or better thickness.
And, is horse hide, *rump area* preferred over steer hide, or does that really make a difference?
Just wondering.
I have a Kanayama built strop that has to be close to 1/4 inch thick and a Kangaroo strop that is paper thin and quite few between those two... were talking hanging strops I assume
Guess what.. They all work :) Buy quality though, and you should do fine..
Be very concerned with the hardware though, I am seeing more and more of this home built crap that has stuff sticking up where it shouldn't, that will lead to blade nicks and chips...
10-4 on that one! I have a strop that has 2 Chicago screws at the top and bottom. Pro side is, you can replace the leather if it really got damaged or put in something different fairly easily. CON side is, they're there. Although you shoulnd't go that far up or that far down, they are still present. I put a double layer of Gorilla duct tape across them, just in case. I don't think going that high and hitting that area is good, but it sure wouldn't be good to hit the blade edge on a bare metal Chicago screw. Stitching would have been the safest all around.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I don't remember how thick it is, but it is much thicker leather than a narrow 4 paddle "Vintage" strop I have. The leather on it was dry and old. So I took the leather off and gave it a few treatments of Neatsfoot Oil to give it a bit more pliable life. It is a whole lot better now, but thin and old enough to remember WW1 or before.
I don't think the leather needs to be super-thick or paper-thin, but something in between - IMO 8-10 oz. Latigo works well (if one prefers the Latigo draw), and 5-7 horse hide works well. When you have held quality leather you know it!
Vern,
If you are hitting the screws when you are stropping, your stropping technique needs some work.............:angel:
Have fun,
Lynn
LOL, nope,never hit the screws, nor get very close. It's a cautionary thing, kind of like having a guard rail next to the edge of a cliff. I don't intend to put on the brakes and drive next to the cliff, but I feel better just knowing it's there. It's nice to think that the screws are at least covered. I don't intend to get robbed or assaulted either, but that doesn't slow me down from carrying concealed....everywhere.:tuQuote:
Originally Posted by Lynn
The thickest strops I've seen are DD model 50 and a Red Imp Horse. I've never measured them but they are really thick. I don't think the thickness makes a difference stropping wise but you will pay dearly for a quality thick piece of leather.
Blimey, Gibbs - you'll be cutting-off that nasty metal hanging gear next and replacing it with string! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbs
Regards,
Neil
As Glen said, I too have strops ranging from the thinnest Cangaroo-hide and all the way up to the thickest of Kanayama's.
And they all work brilliantly.
My personal preference is Cordovan shell, but any quality hide will work just as well.
It's all personal when it comes to the leather type, draw and width.
Well I can't say I've suffered from strop acquisition, having my one shop bought strop and prefering my own 'roo hide instead. I'm going to say thickness is secondary to the quality of the leather. My shop bought strop is an entry level strop. You can pay premium prices for a good quality thick piece of hide, and I can tell you now, you will pay premium prices for a quality peice of 'roo hide. You can also pay premium prices for absolute crap leather if you don't know any better.
Thick or thin, quality leather, and what works best for the individuals taste, is my own opinion on the matter. I must say though, that strop choice is limited in this country. Seems that the large range of choice has to come from O.S
Mick
Mick
I don't feel that there is any correct thickness for the leather other than using what feels right. Thick or thin, each hide and type of tannage has a certain feel or temper that determines how stiff or supple it is. If it feels right and does not stretch too much it will work fine.
Some leathers like kangaroo and certain types of horsehide are very think, yet do not stretch and will work well. I have also found that cupping seems less an issue with some of these as the leather is soft enough to flatten under the blade even if they did cut. A thick stiff cupped strop would not conform, where a thick and very soft leather might.
Ohh, I wouldn't worry too much about hitting those Chicago screws....they are inexpensive and easily replaced :)
Tony
Thanks,Tony, and funny about those chicago screws... LOL
I have seen also that DOVO makes a strop that uses reindeer, and someplace I have seen, correct me if I'm wrong, but Bison (aka Buffalo to us from Nebraska). That's quite a stark difference. Good leather, with no cuts and good grain would be the main criteria, and vegetable tanned as well?
I've even read a post here that a guy used Nubuck (thought it was Italian Suede), and has great result with that. Way to go Burt!!
Add: I also have seen Cordovan Leather for stropping, which is quite higly regarded, and as I understand, a bit on the expensive side.
I don't know about the reindeer from Dovo but they make one called Rindleder which is still cowhide.
Tony
Tony, this is where I got the idea on Reindeer leather from DOVO.. link: Amazon.com: COL. CONK Men's straight RAZOR Leather STROP shave NEW: Sports & Outdoors
Is that real, or perhaps they have the name sort of twisted around?
Rindleder usually translates to "neat's leather" which most commonly refers to cowhide or oxhide. I do remember years ago on one fo the groups someone made a connection with 'rind" somehow translating to either a deer or stag though. I would guess that by the shear numbers of Dovo/Jemico's production these are likely just cowhide which is the most commonly used for strops now days.
Tony
____________________________________________Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbs
Gibbs
Regarding your concerns about strop thickness, I have more than twenty hanging strops including everything from kangaroo to Russian horse butt and numerous bench strops. My kangaroo is very thin and has a silky feel to it. The horse butt is .200" thick and won't be totally effective until I properly break it in.
The most effective strops I have all have a slight to medium draw and my favorite is the English Bridle which I treat with shave cream and lots of rubbing. Buy a strop and try it. If you don't like it, sell it in the classifieds. Then buy another and another until you find one you really like. Or start a collection like I did. It's fun to play.
Howdy Vern,
I personally think the Chicago screws are great to use on strops, and I really don't think anybody will have problems striking them. If you're concerned about it, then just use shorter chicago screws so they "recess" a little into the leather.
I add a little strip of leather between the strop surface and the leather that holds it into place, because I can't find very short chicago screws, so I kind of "build up" the leather from the inside. I don't do this to keep from striking the chicago screws, I only do it because it looks a lot better to have them level with, or slightly recessed into the leather.
I don't think that they have the name twisted - they just plain don't understand what they are selling! Prima = 'best' or 'top notch' rind = 'cow' or 'ox' and leder = leder. so its premium quality cow hide. A deer is a 'hirsch' and a reindeer is a 'ren' or 'rentier' - not very similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbs
Regards,
Neil