Horsehide leather for a strop

There is a leather factory in a nearby town that makes horsehide leather. I called them today to ask if they have any horsehide leather that is suitable for a strop. The lady was very nice and told me that they should have a new batch in the end of this week or beginning of next. My problem is that she told me that they have horsehide from different parts of the horse each with a different price. As I know next to nothing about leather, I would like to ask you which would be the best for making a strop. I think she mentioned neck leather and 2 others but she used some jargon words which I couldn't understand. One more thing. How can I store the leather when I get it? I'm worried that if I roll it, creases and wrinkles will form which will kill the leather. Thanks!

A strop is normally hung vertically for storage. It has been attached at one end and held at the other in a 'taunt' but not excessively 'tight' tension!! There is a 'little play'!

Check here:
gssixgun Stroptober 2012.wmv - YouTube

I can't help you about the different parts of the hide, I do hope that those who know more will join in!!

I do hope that this has been helpful!

I was talking about the hide itself. As the smallest amount I can order is 1sq.m. I'm gonna end-up with some leftovers for making strops in the future and I was wondering how to store that remaining leather. Thanks though!

shell cordovan from the arse. just ask in laymans terms.

Thanks! Any tips on handling the remaining leather afterwards?

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Originally Posted by broncc

Thanks! Any tips on handling the remaining leather afterwards?

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If it is anything like I have gotten it will come to you as a curved piece of hide. Not rectangular or square. You can cut the strops out of it and use the remainder to make whatever you want. I've made guitar straps, waist belts. You could make a wallet, knife sheath, holster ...... whatever your skill, tools and imagination can accomplish. :gl:

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Originally Posted by broncc

Thanks! Any tips on handling the remaining leather afterwards?

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I’d go right to the source of manufacture and ask those that you are getting the leather from about storage.

Tell them the circumstances and ask for direction about storage both short and long range be sure to ask about things like humidity, sunlight etc. You really can’t ask too many questions. If you are able to visit the site where the leather is being made that might be a wise thing to do!

Here’s what I thought was a very informative post about making a strop and I think Jim did a fantastic job of showing and explaining about making a strop from the beginning to end;

http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...-pictures.html

Yes, I think the best thing is to ask the manufacturer how to handle it. I've seen the thread for the DIY strop before and I'll probably follow the same guide.

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Originally Posted by broncc

Yes, I think the best thing is to ask the manufacturer how to handle it. I've seen the thread for the DIY strop before and I'll probably follow the same guide.

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Keep us posted about the progress!! I have a mate in Australia who has offered to hand select a Roo hide for me and have the place ship it to me! (They seem to have very restrictive laws about shipping the hides out of the country, it may also have something to do with USA Customs).

Now all I need is to find the funds!! :tu

Will do! I can get a square meter of hide for $20-28 depending on what part of the horse it is so money is not a big factor. I will check the local knife/blade forums and see if anyone else needs leather so we can split it.

I have a "Tandy" leather by me. I've bought plenty off them over the years. It stores well, doesn't really need anything, depending on the climate, and where you keep it. As long as it's not too dry, you should be fine.

In addition to the strops, you can make a couple of paddles or bench strops.

Which leather sid you buy from Tandy? I visited their website but they have a ton of different hides!

Any leather will work, just think smooth and how thick you want it. The grain on horse is the smallest of all. The thicker pieces come from the butt. Same with cow, it thins at the shoulder. Belly sections tend to curve and have wrinkles.

I bought this here: 3"x66" http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/e.../4576-191.aspx

For me, that was fine for a few paddles for pasting. Tandy has all types of leather, Roo, Gator, some other exotics, including full hides etc... Most have a scrap bin as well, and they'll let you rumage through it.

When I told the salesman what I using it for, He was nice enough to give me some pointers on how to do properly. It worked great...

I made a couple strops from horsebutt. Very thick leather and there is no draw when you strop no matter how long you use it. Very slick feeling. A horsebutt strop in the right hands should last two or three lifetimes.

P.S.
That's why horses can run faster than cows. Their hide is more aerodynamically smooth. Ha!

Broncc - the guy you need input from is "hidestoart". 44 yrs leather working. You might want to PM him. One of my better home made efforts was from horse belly leather, though as one poster mentioned, has wrinkles, irregularities. While technically not leather, the "Shell" membrane under the top of the rump is the most costly. Zero draw. Its where true Cordovan comes from. It may be that Horween co. in Illinois is the last place making real cordovan. Supposedly, the rump leather, as mentioned, was prized after shell. Having tried belly leather, I'd pay more for the rump portion, though this pc of belly leather still serves well. I start w/ a high-draw leather (latigo - another home-made strop), then switch to a medium or low draw strop. It has worked well so far.

I've not had a strop in daily use require care other than the daily hand rub w/ oils from rubbing my forehead. Those strops I've not used in a while benefitted greatly from application of a home made formula from hidestoart, rubbed in w/ a surfacing tool called a 'slicker', which is about a 5x6" pc of plate glass w/ one edge having a wood handle, the opposite edge being rounded and polished. It really has the strops feeling smooth and even.
'Hope this helps some.

Thank you for the input, guys. All the information has been very useful to me. I spoke to a guy from a Bulgarian blade forum who had purchased leather from the same factory and unfortunately he told me that the hide wasn't of very good quality. The thickness wasn't even, there were cuts all over the skin, the hide isn't vegetable tanned but chrome tanned, etc. There is another place that sells hides which I've been assured are top quality but they are more expensive and are sold by the square meter. I don't see a point in purchasing a whole hide as I don't need that much leather. I'll have to live with my old strop for now. :)