First two sets of scales.. and question about assembly order

I have a few blades that need scales and a host of hard woods to choose from. Sadly, I really don't like the look of wood scales, but I need to practice on something..

First two sets... The first from Yellow Heart. Not a hard wood by any stretch, but I have a ton of it and it's easy to work...

http://www.emotion-images.com/img/s1...44212824-5.jpg

Once I got a rhythm I did a second set in Blood Wood.. A serious hard material.

http://www.emotion-images.com/img/s4...85420110-5.jpg

Actually has a lot more red to it, hence the name. Iphone doesn't do a great job with white balance.

These are destined to go on a blade I restored a while ago and I am going to use a white Corian wedge.

http://www.emotion-images.com/img/s4...74040337-5.jpg

I am thinking of finishing the Blood Wood with either CA, epoxy resin or a product called Craft Coat..the stuff used to cover bar and table tops.

Here's the question. The wedge needs to final sized. When do I do that? If I do it before the scales are finished, the tolerances won't be as tight as I would like, because the finish is going to add some thickness. If I wait until after I finish the scales, I am vulnerable to dinging or scratching them as I final size the wedge. Or should everything be finished and pinned before I do the final fitting of the wedge?

Some glue the wedge to one side on the scales usually the back one finish and fit everything at the same time..

That is the easy way,

I have never been a fan of glued wedges so I do it a little different

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

I have never been a fan of glued wedges so I do it a little different

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Cliff hanger.... LOL!

very glad to see,as a scale maker,you actually made a real wedge instead of a spacer,and thin scales to boot,They look very nice.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

very glad to see,as a scale maker,you actually made a real wedge instead of a spacer,and thin scales to boot,They look very nice.

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Thanks... Next set can be thinner for sure. My tools are a bit oversize for small work, so I have to rethink things a bit. Any suggestions on the question I posed on order of finishing the scales and the wedge?

Looking good Michael.

My preference for a finish to wooden scales is a finishing oil with hardener. Applied about 3 times before you assemble the scales - you can then do some final sanding so that the wedge fits flush, re-apply around the wedge area and do some buffing for a satin finish rather than the high gloss from CA.

It's much easier than all the steps required with CA and is a tip I picked up from a brush maker - I reasoned that if it's good enough for brushes that have a lot more direct exposure to water, then it should be good for scales. I've had no problems so far and just need to re-buff every once in a while.

The brand I use (in the UK) is Liberon finishing oil - it's similar to tung oil so should be widely available.

Once you finish the scales however you choose line your blade up to triple make sure your blade doesn't hit the wedge and that the holes (especially the pivot hole) are properly placed. One you make sure the world is good with the holes and the wedge use light duty double sided tape to stape each side I the scales together- then drill your holes.

Seperate the scales, and line your wedge up with the scale. Drill out your wedge hole... I like to the go back and ream out the wedge hole slightly larger the. 1/16.... This allows some play when pinning so the angle of wedge doesn't affect the elignment of the scales or bend the pin. Once you pin the wedge end its all a matter of assembling and pinning the pivot end.

Like I said on Instagram.... Looks like you did a nice job on the scales! My only 2 cents is the make sure the longer pointy part on the far side of the scale allows you to strop comfortably.

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Originally Posted by UKRob

My preference for a finish to wooden scales is a finishing oil with hardener. Applied about 3 times before you assemble the scales - you can then do some final sanding so that the wedge fits flush, re-apply around the wedge area and do some buffing for a satin finish rather than the high gloss from CA.

It's much easier than all the steps required with CA and is a tip I picked up from a brush maker - I reasoned that if it's good enough for brushes that have a lot more direct exposure to water, then it should be good for scales. I've had no problems so far and just need to re-buff every once in a while.

The brand I use (in the UK) is Liberon finishing oil - it's similar to tung oil so should be widely available.

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I figured the best bet would be to finish the scales and do a touch-up on the wedge end if needed..

I have Tung Oil. I've also done a single coat, rubbed CA finish on other projects and it turned out great.

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Originally Posted by celticcrusader

Looking good Michael.

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Thanks Jamie...

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Originally Posted by JoeLowett

Once you finish the scales however you choose line your blade up to triple make sure your blade doesn't hit the wedge and that the holes (especially the pivot hole) are properly placed. One you make sure the world is good with the holes and the wedge use light duty double sided tape to stape each side I the scales together- then drill your holes.

Seperate the scales, and line your wedge up with the scale. Drill out your wedge hole... I like to the go back and ream out the wedge hole slightly larger the. 1/16.... This allows some play when pinning so the angle of wedge doesn't affect the elignment of the scales or bend the pin. Once you pin the wedge end its all a matter of assembling and pinning the pivot end.

Like I said on Instagram.... Looks like you did a nice job on the scales! My only 2 cents is the make sure the longer pointy part on the far side of the scale allows you to strop comfortably.

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I drilled the holes before I shaped the scales. I used the light duty tape to adhere the two blanks and did all the contouring with them stuck together as it's far easier to be sure they are symmetrical. I rely primarily on touch when doing these kinds of projects... the finger tips will find high and low spots pretty easily.

I drilled the wedge after I sized it and rough shaped it.. sandwiched it between the scales and marked the hole and then drilled it. Like you, I went oversize a little, but I did it because given the wedge shape, the drill press would put a hole at an angle to the center line. Going slightly over eliminated that, but did make for the need to glue the wedge.. I think.

Good call on the shape interfering with stropping. But I did check that out prior to finalizing the shape. No worries there.