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Having rescaled about a dozen SRs, I am still struggling to get a perfect tight fit for the wedges. After peening, I get to the point any additional taps with the hammer could potentially crack the scale material and I still get some space in between the wedge and the scale. What am I doing wrong? Is there anyway to fill in this gap without having to start over from scratch?
Is it possible that you are cutting your pin too long? Also, if the wedge is slightly higher in the center the thinner outside edges will appear to have a space because of an uneven surface even though the pin is tight. Just a couple of thoughts . . . . .
Regards - Walt
If you carefully scrape the inside of the scales where the wedge covers or the sides of the wedge to a slight hollow the scales will fit tightly against the wedge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
~Richard
Thats why I'm a fan of the old school lead wedges. After penning any gaps can be closed in by taping the excess lead in the cracks. Tightens them right up before sanding the lead flush. Not only is it easy its period correct. The lead posioning is a set back however. But a small price to pay for a killer razor. Right?
Do you have any pics to show what you're meaning? It could be a multitude of things from the wedge being too thick towards the heel end, the wrong taper, or even pin placement. A pic could help narrow it down :)
A wedge can be too tight also.Attachment 143423
But seriously, pinning too tightly can cause the edges to move away from the wedge if there is any hollowness at all in the scales or wedge.
~Richard
Thanks. I will be posting a picture later. From what I have read so far, I suspect my problem is a combination of off center pin placement and too tight of a peen.
I would guess the inside of the scales or the wedge are not completely flat.
Have you tried a small dab of ca then put it in a vice with lite pressure to hold it together before putting in your pins?
Get some Micro fastners 0-80 3/4 of an inch long and mock it up FIRST!Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorthin
That way you can make any adjustments you need BEFORE the final pinning process.
BOOM....EASY SOLUTION!
(just don't ask me why I know this..LOL)
I had a teacher in school that used to CHEW lead solder. I wonder if he's still alive...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarkus
But yeah in that Joseph Rodgers 4 day set I got it has the lead (or pewter) wedges, and I really like the weight balance. Thanks for the heads up about using that on restores...
As far as glue, I tried that on one razor but my wedge was not perfect enough, and now when I open the razor it pops that glue each time. It sets up enough after closing that it keeps popping when I open it :(
The cool thing about lead is you get a hunk, bash it into a wedge shape and its done. Below is my trusty lead bashing tool. (Just a hunk of steel)Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyalCake
Attachment 143442
I totally agree that using microfasteners to work out things before finalizing it all is the ONLY way to go. I've found many problems that way and it's much easier to fix things before pinning a blade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirColorado
Meeeee too
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tip-bench.html
This shows how to do it with a lined wedge, the only difference is an unlined one is even easier
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ned-wedge.html
This all just got me to thinking - can I hammer out some of my lead fishing weights to use as a wedge? Anyone tried it?
Lead is lead bro. It doesn't matter what form it was. Just start bashing it and your golden.Quote:
Originally Posted by AirColorado
