got my thiers issard from france here she is after a long restore

Well you guys all told me it was a major risk buying a thiers issard 69 frameback for only 22 shipped from france with the paddle strop also and i may have learned my lesson or i may not have. There is still pitting and staining and you can still tell its old but pitting and staining is minimal. This thing didnt have as much of the black stuff along the cutting edge it appeared it did in the pictures from before but it was covered in rust like bad this was my hardest restore yet. i started at 500 grit but it wouldnt do the job so i dropped to 400 still didnt work too well unfortunately i had to drop to 300 i took it easy and really slow i took a few hours on each grit and this restore probably took around 7 hours or more total. There was a small chip near the edge off the blade and most of it came out luckily. Only thing that sucks is i didnt unpin the razor to sand the blade under the scale where it connects since i dont have the means to repin or the expierience i wish i could repin it and sand the rust i am sure i missed since this is probably my most valuable razor but maybe some other time. Do you guys think its worth trying to find someone to hone this razor? Or do you think that with all the work i did and the shape its still in that its a waste of time? Let me know and if you guys think its worth it i need to find someone to hone it and a few other razors fairly inexpensively i have extra money but not much right now i didnt get much for my other razors i sold one of which was nos bummer :/ thanks guys took all your advice on this restore as well and they come out with less scratches left at the end as well just wish i could of gotten away starting at 500 grit. Thank you all everyone has helped me so much on here and i truly appreciate it. Any info om thiers and year this was produced appreciated as usual.-john (before then after pics)Attachment 144911Attachment 144912Attachment 144913Attachment 144914Attachment 144915Attachment 144916Attachment 144917

That is a good looking restore on what looks to have been a real bear of a job.
If you are confident you can hone it to a great shaving edge then go for it.
Otherwise, I say send it out for honing to one of our dedicated honemeisters
The pins could tightened at the same time if needed.
It will be worth the expense to get it done by a pro, you may even find one nearby.
My 2 cents worth anyways. :)

Hmmm. It looks very nice in regards to the finish, but the shape of the edge is a little strange; it seems to really drop off towards the heel. However, it depends on what part of the razor you normally actually use; the belly of the edge (the middle) looks nice; and you may be a shaver who doesn't use the heel a lot (I use the heel a lot myself).

An option might be to remove the smile (more of a cheesy grin on this one) and straighten the edge; but that would take a good deal of work and of course you'd end up with a narrower razor; but that might still be OK, though it'd be a very stiff blade. I myself would be inclined to remove that curve (smile) in the edge, but it'd be a major task and you'd need to do a LOT of work to re-set the bevel.

I feel for ME it'd possibly be beyond my capabilities to get the shape (and edge) right, but a professional could possibly do it. If you're saying it cost 22 buckeroonies, if you contact a honemeister and they say it can be done, depending on the agreed cost, it may very well be worth it. They may be able to unpin the razor to clean up the pivot and re-pin it for you too.

Just my opinion, I'm no expert on restores or honing...

BTW, if you update your profile to include your location, it makes it much easier for guys to step up and offer help/mentoring etc.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...er-2013-a.html

I just had an example of why on my hones last night, spent a ton of extra time trying to get past a Swiss cheese edge, that somebody had "Restored"...

If you don't check the edge first you guys are just practicing your sanding abilities, did you at least look at the edge under well lit magnification ???? If you don't have a stone, with just a bit of practice and skill you can cut a bevel on sandpaper to test it.

ps: I highlighted the word skill because doing it wrong will wreck the razor.. see Restoration Rule #1 "Rush a Restore, Wreck a Razor"

So its wrecked? I took a long time on this restore like 7+ hours and did evertthing everyone has been tellibg me minus the unpin... my arm is even killing me from this one. And I wrecked the razor really? If this is true im really done with restores since I seem to screw everyone I do up even if I take everyone's advice.

Or it was already wrecked and I just spent alot of time on a razor that cant be made shave ready? And what do you mean swiss cheese edge? Is this a term for incorrect shape of the cutting edge or what? I thought that this style frameback generally were supposed to be round were the cutting edge was at am I wrong? If this thing is just garbage just let me know honestly so I can sell it or give it to a buddy because if so its gonna be a slap in the face everyday to have a thiers issard sitting around that is farbage and cant be made shave ready since its probably the most sought after razor I have.

>>it was written:
>>If this is true im really done with restores since
>>I seem to screw everyone I do up even if I take everyone's advice.

In my opinion, if you enjoy restoring, then you should restore.
Perhaps not every restore will come out the way you would prefer
- but that should not stop you from restoring.

I have been known to paint & repair Coleman gasoline appliances.
To non-collectors, the time spent making junk work will seem like folly.

Jody

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Originally Posted by 2010johnjef

So its wrecked? I took a long time on this restore like 7+ hours and did evertthing everyone has been tellibg me minus the unpin... my arm is even killing me from this one. And I wrecked the razor really? If this is true im really done with restores since I seem to screw everyone I do up even if I take everyone's advice.

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Originally Posted by 2010johnjef

Or it was already wrecked and I just spent alot of time on a razor that cant be made shave ready? And what do you mean swiss cheese edge? Is this a term for incorrect shape of the cutting edge or what? I thought that this style frameback generally were supposed to be round were the cutting edge was at am I wrong? If this thing is just garbage just let me know honestly so I can sell it or give it to a buddy because if so its gonna be a slap in the face everyday to have a thiers issard sitting around that is farbage and cant be made shave ready since its probably the most sought after razor I have.

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Seriously that is what you gathered from my post ????

How the heck would I have any idea if you wrecked the razor, or if the razor was bad to begin with You never tested it or checked it you just rushed right into polishing... The link explains how YOU should test your razor FIRST so you don't waste time putting lipstick on a pig...
I have no idea whether the razor is good or not and neither does anyone else here from the info given...

I think GSSIXGUN is referring to the cutting edge where if there is or was rust can end up pitted. Sometimes it is impossible to hone past, depending on how bad the rust was in the first place. A good tool is a jewellers loupe so you can see the edge under magnification. If the pitting is bad, it will look like swiss cheese, alot of little holes and pits. Hope this helps.

I get confused super easy im sorry I have always been that way. So your saying I need to tape the spine and most of the razor and try to make a soft imitated cutting edge with 325 and 400 sandpaper amd see if I can make one and have clean steel withiut taking away too much of the blade correct?

Ok I dont have anything ti magnify but just off of eyesight there are 11 possibly on one side 4 forsure and 4 small possible pits on other 1 for forsure some are so small its hard to tell if its staining or pits

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Originally Posted by 2010johnjef

I get confused super easy im sorry I have always been that way. So your saying I need to tape the spine and most of the razor and try to make a soft imitated cutting edge with 325 and 400 sandpaper amd see if I can make one and have clean steel withiut taking away too much of the blade correct?

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:thinking:

Not really, and after the last few misunderstandings of what was posted I would be hesitant to give advice any longer... I explain it in that thread I linked, there are even magnified pics to study, I would suggest taking the time to read and look, then proceed slowly with a clear plan in mind...

I learned from here .. I won't even start a restore unless I can get some type of clean steel bevel going... If i was u.. U spent a great deal of time sanding this bad boy down send it out for a honing ... This hobby especially honing takes timmmeee... If this is ur first restore or razor getting it pro honed is worth the cost for two reasons... One u will know what a shave ready razor feels like.. And two u may have a better understanding of what is being said..

I have read through all comments and steps a few times and looked over pictures your saying that the bottom area basically wont take a hone generally unless after going through a few steps you have a clean bottom with no pitting? Sorry like I said I get confused easy I have read through it all a few times and looked at the pictures I have add on top of getting confused I generaly have to be with the person to understand what they are saying or doing. If I still dont know what u are saying im sorry.

It does have a few spots on the edge so im probably going to sell it since I cant find anyone to hone it and it doesnt seem like its worth it from what I have read

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Originally Posted by 2010johnjef

It does have a few spots on the edge so im probably going to sell it since I cant find anyone to hone it and it doesnt seem like its worth it from what I have read

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1. There are tons of people that can hone it or attempt to hone it, just look in the classifieds under Member Services...
2. Mentioning sales of razors on the open forum is actually against the rules...
3. Not one person said it couldn't be honed, that cannot be determined from the info given/shown.

I have asked a few people recently about hones off the classifieds and dont get replys. Sorry didnt know that was a rule.

yuck...framebacks... :p

To the OP. Don't get dis-heartened, you did a good job trying at this stage, but it does remind me of my first car. I added chrome bits and pieces, got nice new extractors and a stainless steel exhaust and polished the hell out of it but it was full of rust; even the chassis was rusted :p Essentially I wasted a lot of time but it kept me happy for a few years.

Don't hesitate to PM mentors on the site, that way you can have a conversation without putting it all out there.

We can't really tell what the edge is like from the pics. I myself was making reference to the odd shape, but that may just be the pics; it may not as be pronounced as what it looks like.

Well done for updating your profile to show where you are; we can see from that that you are trying to listen to advice. Don't worry about being confused, even though honing is not rocket science it is a difficult skill to learn and does take time. Even getting your head around the fundamentals takes some time.

I know I live a million miles away but I'd be happy to help put for the cost of postage only, but I'm sure there's someone closer to you.

I myself cut a bevel with 400 wet and dry wrapped around my Norton 4/8, but as gssisgun says, you need to be really careful.

I think it's a nice looking frameback, I love my framebacks and if that was my razor I would as least give it a shot at honing it.

I hope this works out well for you whether you do it yourself or get someone else to. Remember it's far easier to learn honing on a razor that doesn't possibly require major work.

Again, please don't get dis-heartened or frustrated.

Carl

I'd just send it to get honed now that you've cleaned it up...maybe polish it if you have some (polishing should be done before honing) before sending it out. Once they have it in their hands, someone like Glen will be able to get it into the best state possible.

Just send it to a pro! :tu

I don't think it looks that bad.... Rub some dirt on it.. Throw it on a 1000k stone and see if you can get it to shave the hair on your arm.... Framebacks are durable razors. Stiff shavers, but always nice to have in the collection.. Keeps an edge too. Frame backs are like fat chicks and mopeds...

I don't think a newb (my apologies to the OP if I am wrong on your experience level) should be honing his own razor.

I don't think it looks that bad either from the pics. If there are no cracks in the blade then I don't see any reason you can't put an edge on that blade. Can't hurt to try...

2010johnjef - don't get too disheartened by this problem, it is just a small setback on the road to learning how to restore a razor
Many of the members here have had many problems in their early days learning to restore razors
These members are still here and very willing to help out other members having problems

I have recently spent a lot of time on a razor I thought would be a great shaver only to find it had more faults than I knew about.
Although the restore was a loss I learned some new lessons from it.

Try to find the lessons to be learned from what you have done with this razor.
On the plus side you have shown a great deal of patience and the end result is certainly a nice looking razor
You have also shown you understand the progression of sanding a blade, the scales also turned out quite well
All this with a limited number of tools and equipment, a job well done.
These are the basic skills of restoring, in time you will learn many more

Now just send that razor out for honing and when it come back enjoy the feel of a great shave.

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

I don't think it looks that bad either from the pics. If there are no cracks in the blade then I don't see any reason you can't put an edge on that blade. Can't hurt to try...

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Gotta learn sometime.. If you don't try, you know.. It is not rocket science..

2010johnjef I just wrapped up a restore Thursday of a nearly identical TI. There are 2 threads in here about it - one as I was going nuts trying to remove the blade from the frame and the other showing the finished product. That you got that blade cleaned up is in itself an accomplishment.

There's a bit you may want to consider and then mail it out to be honed.

The TI that I just finished was an absolute BEAR to hone even using all the stones I have. Those blade inserts on a TI frameback are tough, but can "curve" a little. Remember that "a little" is relative in that just a slight curve will require pretty wicked gymnastics on the stones to keep the bevel running the same width. I'm no honemaster but have done my share and this one ate my lunch before I figured it out.

You can try some sandpaper but I would advise against it - if there's a curve at all in the blade it can get dicey. Should you try it, you may want to use a magic marker to color the 1/4 inch or so on the edge on both sides. As soon as you start to hone/sand the edge you'll see what kind of contact you're making. If it's not an even line (or there are spots where the marker is still visible where there should be bevel scratches) then send it out to be done by someone else.

Again, cleaning and sanding the crud and pits off the blade is a big part of restoring a razor - but there are still more steps that need to be learned and mastered. They ALL take time and patience. Just giving you a heads-up that the idea of honing a blade like that can get rough pretty quickly if it's not perfectly straight (and it's likely not straight given its age).

What is a frameback?
Jody

Wint, Fat chicks on mopeds like Framebacks?

Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.

Now if you said and a 1/2 gallon of Wesson oil...

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Originally Posted by jjsrp

What is a frameback?
Jody

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a razor with a separate piece along the spine. Search "frameback" in the forum and I'm sure you will get more than a few pages of examples.