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Trying to see if i can make a Gold Dollar swim instead of drown.
Took it apart and made some honey brown Buffalo Horn scales with a camel bone wedge.
Now it's time to hone and fix the blade as it seems to become a task in itself.
Started to study one Gssixgun's video to help me out and see where it will takes me.
Swim or sink for me?
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Find that after you set the bevel the 2 of mine really like a pasted cotton mesh strop.
Will give that a try,thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnus
That looks nice, very pretty scales. I've managed to get a few GDs to shave well, so I think you'll swim. You just have to pay a bit more attention (sometimes) to the geometry - quality can be a bit variable in that regard.
James.
The heal part of the blade seems like it is gonna cause a problem as it is thicker than the blade.
Hone it sideways and bypass the heel. Watch the heel hook though. They can hone out of the box, no grinding or minimal. Easiest way is to take 1/16 off the heel and toe with a dremel or I use a wet grinder, this makes those areas less of an issue.
Can i use the dmt325 with more pressure on the heal part to get the blade thinner?Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
The shoulder or stabilizer is in the way. If you place the blade at a 45 degree angle to the hone(edge and spine on the hone now) and hone it that way or even a little more, you will bypass the shoulder. SO you will be able to hone the whole thing without grinding or minimal as I mentioned.
I'll get honing on it next week and i will let you know how it went and thank you again for the info.
GD or Double Arrow?? A 66 either way? And a very nice job of work I will say!
~Richard
It's looking nice in those scales! I've also been trying my hand at honing up some GD's. Not the greatest geometry, but I've gotten some decent shaves out of them. I also ground the stabilizer out of mine with a dremel to get it out of the way. Good luck with the honing!
Nice job on the scales! I've done 3 GD 66's and the shoulders on all three needed attention in order to hone properly.
Mine also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimmy72
The shoulder is the problem.
Will need major attention to make this thing work.
Took me a while to hone this Gold Dollar and as everyone said that shoulder and stabilizer part was a problem.
Used my dmt325 for as much as i could and finished honing it which was a lot longer than my usual blades.
I didn't want to put the work of putting my dremel on this thing so i realized that the heal part would not be a place to shave with.
After all that honing time and extra attention on this thing i got ready for a shave.
I brought another backup straight with me in case this Gold Dollar blew a tire and proceeded.
To my surprise it shaved great.
I just avoided using a small part of the heal and i didn't have to use the spare straight.
Finished my 3 passes with the GD very well.
Don't get me wrong this is not my best shaver but i didn't expect it to be that good.
Nice feel,heavy and cut through hairs pretty nice.
I guess whoever gets in this straight razor journey needs at one time to give this a try and hone a GD, which will let you realize,if you can hone a GD you are on the right track in learning how to hone.
I got this blade on ebay for 5$ shipped to Canada so can't go wrong.
But my opinion,i have bought nice vintage blades that needed a lot less elbow grease than GD'S and turn out to be fantastic shavers and were maybe a few dollars more.
If this blade had a better part at the stabilizer part i think it would be awesome to shave with.
This was the 66 version,now i am gonna see if there is another model of these to try and see if there is less of a problem on the stabilizer part.
Wow! That is an awesome looking str8 you got there! Those scales are crazy cool. Congratulations! I never got into this with the goal to restore or create but I may be doing just that at some point after seeing your work. Once again Congrats!
