edge protection?

Didn't see any relevant search results, so:

Is there any method of protecting the edge when rescaling or other shop work? I'm afraid that tape would be too much, unless it were soaked off maybe.

How about that hot-dip stuff that protects new machine tools and cutters-and other high-carbon precision surfaces?



oh wait, i'm going to tape a slit soda straw over the edge...whoohoo, that caffeine is kickin':D


Here's the backstory: You buy a pile of rusty razors from where ever, and AS Glen teaches us, you start by working the edge down to a clean bevel before you spend a lot of effort fixing scales or otherwise restoring razor. That way you don't fix up a razor that isn't worth fixing.

TO that end I have a fantastic edge on one that I MUST rescale, and as a neophyte honer, i fear for that great edge*. (I'm not exactly sure how i got it...it just happened-which leads me to my first rule for the ADD honer--WRITE IT DOWN! so that you might be able to repeat the process without too much guesswork)

*which i did ding on the way to the strops originally, and had to return to the stones--oh wait that's a clue. :p

thanks. I have some wood to shape.

The best I ever tried was simply Scotch tape, sorta "Loose" at the edge,, but I used WD-40 to take it off so I didn't pick at it..

But basically I have always re-honed them after doing work,

I use blue masking to protect the edge and to protect myself from the edge. It does not leave much residue and if it does, rubbing alcohol cleans it up in no time. A straw will work but may fall off easily. Also the plastic clips for folders for reports or other papers work well and are deeper and tighter than a straw. I find them at office supply stores.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WadePatton

Didn't see any relevant search results, so:

Is there any method of protecting the edge when rescaling or other shop work? I'm afraid that tape would be too much, unless it were soaked off maybe.

How about that hot-dip stuff that protects new machine tools and cutters-and other high-carbon precision surfaces?



oh wait, i'm going to tape a slit soda straw over the edge...whoohoo, that caffeine is kickin':D


Here's the backstory: You buy a pile of rusty razors from where ever, and AS Glen teaches us, you start by working the edge down to a clean bevel before you spend a lot of effort fixing scales or otherwise restoring razor. That way you don't fix up a razor that isn't worth fixing.

TO that end I have a fantastic edge on one that I MUST rescale, and as a neophyte honer, i fear for that great edge*. (I'm not exactly sure how i got it...it just happened-which leads me to my first rule for the ADD honer--WRITE IT DOWN! so that you might be able to repeat the process without too much guesswork)

*which i did ding on the way to the strops originally, and had to return to the stones--oh wait that's a clue. :p

thanks. I have some wood to shape.

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I really have nothing to add other than the blue masking tape seems like a good idea. What I want to comment on is the delight I had reading your post and the willingness to admit to human foibles, caffeine addiction and a humorous approach to the problem and your own ego. Thank you for your humanity (another word for I try to do right but sometimes I get the better of myself).:needcoffee:

Yea, I just plan on re-honing once finished. It really does not take much to ding a shave ready edge or to cut you when working on a blade.

I kill the edge on a small Washita stone I keep on the bench, to keep from cutting myself when handling the razor especially buffing. You don’t have to breadknife, just kill it and it is much safer.

I work on a 12 X9 inch piece of 4mm craft foam (a buck at Wally Mart)when working on the blade as in hand sanding and the edge gets buried in the foam, protecting you and the edge from chipping.

You can work right up to the edge without and danger of cutting your finger or the blade dancing on the bench.

A 2mm piece of foam works well on the drill press to preventing dancing and scratching the surface, blade or scales without too much compression. The more control you have the safer it is for the blade and you.

Thanks for comments and suggestions. Yet to make it out to shop. Report/pics if it all works out.

Just don't touch the freaking edge ! :<0) If you do, do what Glen said. I went over this in my head and thought....I take the pin out with the razor closed. When free, I put it in the next set like it was closed and repin. Not much air time. If you polishing or are sanding anything your going to have to go to the hones anyway.

Could you heat shrink the blade ?? Then you could easily slice one end & peal it off??

oooh, imagine that. Heatshrink--if just the right size, could go on "snug" for work then be heated (if any "shrinkage" is left) to "autoslice" itself off the blade-when finished.

OR just heat the pivot end enough to hold the stuff on there.

I tried the soda straw, and found that it's not real easy to slip the slit straw onto the blade. It's just a little too twisty and stiff.

So i resorted to tape. and I managed to remove two sets of scales and polish (manually) out two tangs. Still working on the wooden replacement scales.

While we're on the topic, I wonder/bet that you could save that hot-dip stuff and re-use it, just like cerrosafe/cerrobend.

Dang that was hard to find, but it's called: Hot-Melt Reusable Peel-Away Protective Coatings by McMaster Carr.

Yup, that'd work.

I just use electrical tape to protect an edge. Yes, you may have to touch up the bevel, but it's just a touch-up. Nothing is "fixed" with honing or shaving, it's a dynamic process. I can hone two of the same razors at the same time and I will bet you a Escher that they don't get the same amount of "strokes" each. Just listen, the razor will tell you what to do...

How about molten candlewax? That is cool enough not to hurt the temper, and it cools down immediately to form a protective layer.

Electrical tape, then re-hone it after you are finished.

I just do the 10Pups method - keep it in the scales, remove scales, and rescale. When that's not possible because i have to do heavy lifting on the steel, I'm just careful not to create more problems and then rehone it. If all else fails I rehone it. Hmmm It think I see a pattern here...