Air-Brush Sandblaster

Will an air-brush sandblaster and its media variety perform better than sanding, micromesh, etc?
The specific benefits I would like to get from use of a mini-sandblaster is better blade prep, and the ability to restore a blade that might otherwise be beyond repair. If it can't provide those then I guess there's not a pro to using one. At this time, etching and other aesthetic designs on the blade aren't a concern.

It may not provide the hand-workmanship Zen that others mention but just curious.

When posting, does blade = the whole 1-piece steel cutting thingy, or do people write out the names of the entire metal? I like using correct terminology -- makes it more efficient and pleasant for all.

Thanks!

Feel free to blast me; I'm used to Pirate4x4, and a few reloading forum communities. heh. i didn't read anything specific when using the search forum or in the beginner sticky.

Welcome to SRP!

As far as the media blasting I have no clue. I am interested in what others have to say though.

The terminology can be found here The straight razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki

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Originally Posted by McBrautigam

Welcome to SRP!

The terminology can be found here The straight razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki

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Thanks! I'll be able to contribute one day...until then I'll just be a taker of other's knowledge.

Yea I saw the diagram and other FAQ and etc... I wanted to describe what I would sand blast and didn't know if "blade" was sufficient -- as opposed to Talon/Tang/Tail, Shoulder/stabilizer, Jumps, Spine/back, Point/Tip, Toe, Face, Edge, Heel. that's a lot to type, heh. Some hobbies, like reloading and smithing, are very work picky.

I have thought about using baking soda in a blast cabinet, but a razor blade to cut off surface rust, WD40 and fine steel wool will remove most all rust in just a few minutes. Sandpaper and a buffer get the rest. I have used chemical rust removers like Evaprorust with some success. For me it is about the quickest, easiest method.

Really, the trick is to purchase razors to be restored in the best condition possible as heavily rusted/pitted steel presents structural problems that can surface when honed and may not hold an edge.

It is often advised to cut a rough bevel with a low grit stone to examine the edge steel condition before you invest a lot of time and work in a restoration that will not shave.

Restoration begins at purchase.

Welcome, we tend to be more friendly than most forums, I too follow some opinionated car forums where blasting is common, must be a product of forum anonymity.

Welcome.

I don't think this would work well since blasting causes pits and craters in the surface and progressing to a higher grit will not wipe away the larger crater left by previous grits leaving a not so perfect finish.

Also the most important part of restoring is preserving the original lines of the razor which would be eroded and dulled by sand blasting.

I think this is better suited for etching or frosting a blade rather then restoring and removing pits.

Also + 1 on Euclid, don't buy junk! Buy stuff that is actually restorable and you won't have to work about super heave rust and pit removal.

Here is a link to a post that I did sometime ago. I have done some other razors this way with different media and the results vary, some good some bad.
Start with a straight that is in good shape is the key.
Hope this helps.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-razor.html


V/R
Tim

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Originally Posted by oldblades

Here is a link to a post that I did sometime ago. I have done some other razors this way with different media and the results vary, some good some bad.
Start with a straight that is in good shape is the key.
Hope this helps.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-razor.html


V/R
Tim

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I agree. The condition its in would determine my course of action. I've only worked on a couple though so take my opinion for just that.... an opinion.

Welcome and good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

WD40 and fine steel wool will remove most all rust in just a few minutes. Sandpaper and a buffer get the rest. I have used chemical rust removers like Evaprorust with some success.

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That's cool -- I was unaware that reasonable surface rust can potentially be easily removed. I'll just have to experiment so I can develop a visual range for identifying the good from the bad.

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Originally Posted by JoeLowett

I don't think this would work well since blasting causes pits and craters in the surface. Also the most important part of restoring is preserving the original lines of the razor which would be eroded and dulled by sand blasting.

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I wondered about the effects. I assumed from the lack of blasting posts there's a reason why it's not a popular method.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oldblades

Here is a link to a post that I did sometime ago. I have done some other razors this way with different media and the results vary, some good some bad.
Start with a straight that is in good shape is the key.
Hope this helps.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-razor.html

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That's super slick! I didn't think to search bead blasting. I guess the art-form can be broken into restoration that leads to a shave-ready setup, and restoration that leads to a shelved collection. I know blasting is a lot of fun when the setup works..ha

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Originally Posted by rplunk43

Welcome and good luck.

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Thanks!

Thank you all for your responses!

There was a post not to long ago where a member here, peirre got his W&B diamond edge restored and the used it to frost the bottom part of the blade. The effect was frosted.

I would think that blasting is going to leave it's own mark on the razor that will have to be removed if that is not the effect your after. I don't think too many original blades came with fine sand finishes. The method wasn't even invented until 1870 or so and then how widely was it used ? It may clean out some deeper pitting but I don't see it removing them. Maybe rounding them off some. Like you said your going to have to get a few under your belt to find out and even then you will learn something with each razor as you go. Some like this some like that. :<0)
Dig in and have fun.

Both the Bead blasted and Evaporust razors will need to be sanded or buffed with greaseless to bring out a shine.

Evaprorust is much cheaper and easier, about $25 buck for a gallon that can be reused many times, simply dropped into the solution for 24 hours, rinse in warm water. No gloves or respirator needed. This same blade has sat on a shelf above my work bench since I did this experiment, a year and a half ago. It still looks identical to this photo, no rust in an unheated garage.

Results are similar and all rust is removed, both have a satin finish.

Attachment 150850 Bead Blasted razors
Attachment 150851 Before
Attachment 150852 After Evaprorust
Attachment 150853