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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #18071
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Are you overstretching it, Mike?
    You tried. I think sometimes comes a point of no return.
    Last edited by engine46; 03-10-2020 at 04:12 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Are you overstretching it ...?
    Quote Originally Posted by engine46 View Post
    ... I think sometimes comes a point of no return.
    I either over-stretched it, or the leather was already shot. When I first got it, there was a thick layer of leather on the surface which had turned to powder. When I cleaned it with saddle soap (I know, I would moisturise first next time...) it came away as sludge. So perhaps the leather was indeed past the point of no return.

    But, parts of it are also fine, so I'm wondering if anything is still salvageable. Is there anything that can be done except sanding the rough parts? I'm thinking that if the cracked areas are cracked because they were insufficiently hydrated, would it be possible to fill the cracks with a readily-absorbed flexible adhesive? In the same way that nicks can be glued, something that I've had considerable success with.

    We are into the experimental zone now obviously...

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    You can try flooding it with oil and see if it will absorb more. I have one old strop that has so much oil you can barely read the stamps on it. The strop was stiff as a board and stamps were deep, when I started oiling it.

    If the leather is too far gone, it can make a good pasted strop, glued to a piece of wood, scrape the leather smooth then paste with paste of your choice. I make paddle strops for a variety of tools and knives, from shop tools to handheld smaller strop for axes. I buy thin, dented or damaged bamboo cutting boards from a local home goods outlet, $2-5 and cut them up for paddle strop backing.

    I glue leather to wood with plane old yellow wood glue.

    I often buy strops at flea markets where the leather is trashed or cut, for the hardware or the linen for a dollar or two, but often make small strops from the leather after rehydrating and scraping flat. Scraping also makes a nice napped surface that holds paste well.

    I would try adding more oil then scraping smooth, before you give up on it.

    In the above post I said the spray bottle dispenses a ¼ oz per spray, I meant ¼ teaspoon per spray.
    Last edited by Euclid440; 03-10-2020 at 02:45 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    You can try flooding it with oil and see if it will absorb more. ...
    I would try adding more oil then scraping smooth, before you give up on it.
    ...
    I will try more oil and scraping, many thanks. The strop is still drinking oil, and discounting cracks within 5mm of the edges, I would say that 80% of the surface is fine, meaning supple, smooth and not cracked.

    On the other hand, there is one notable thing about this strop, even after six months oiling, cleaning and hydrating, instead of smelling of oil and leather, it still smells strongly of dry musty leather. Dead, in other words

    In any case, it has been a learning experience next time I would do several things differently:
    -not try cleaning the strop until the re-hydration/re-oiling is well under way
    -apply only neatsfoot oil, not dubbin
    -be VERY patient (although this one has been ongoing for six months now...)
    -begin the rolling/loosening/working process VERY slowly and VERY carefully, so that if it isn't ready I can stop
    Last edited by Montgomery; 03-10-2020 at 04:59 PM.

  6. #18075
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Dubbing is mostly wax used to waterproof leather. It may be preventing the oil from penetrating deep into the leather.

    Try wiping the strop with a paper towel squirted with a WD40. WD40 is mostly solvent and a few application may remove more of the wax so oil can penetrate.

    Then apply Neetsfoot, Ballistol or Olive oil. Try to remove as much of the wax as possible.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Dubbing is mostly wax used to waterproof leather. It may be preventing the oil from penetrating deep into the leather.

    Try wiping the strop with a paper towel squirted with a WD40. WD40 is mostly solvent and a few application may remove more of the wax so oil can penetrate.

    Then apply Neetsfoot, Ballistol or Olive oil. Try to remove as much of the wax as possible.
    I did realise the problem with dubbin about two months ago, and scraped the wax off and started applying neatsfoot then. The neatsfoot still absorbs quickly.

    Let's see how we go on, many thanks!

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    Pure neetsfoot is harder to source, but the only stuff, aside from mink oil I use on strops. Neetsfoot blends have other stuff in them.
    Dubbin and the like is great fir baseball mitts and leather wear though.
    I have used neetsfoot and kerosene as a soak for really old brittle leather with success, but that was an old leather belt for wearing. Came back very soft and still in use today..
    Good luck!
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    that's a interesting idea about the kerosene and neatsfoot soak. Do you know the ratio for that?

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    I went 8oz-1oz kerosene to neetsfoot.
    Figured the kerosene would flash off leaving the oil deeper. And it seemed to do just that.
    Smell and all gone in less than a weeks drying near a heat register.
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  13. #18080
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    Pure neetsfoot is harder to source
    ...
    Good luck!
    I used to buy mine from the black pudding stall on the market, they used to sell just black puddings, four kinds of tripe, cow heel, pigs feet, and neatsfoot oil which I suppose was a by-product of the other items. The old ladies used to rub it into their arthritic joints, apparently it gives some relief. I have probably less than 50ml in the last bottle I bought. I no longer live in the area, but was there over Christmas and went to get another bottle, only to be told, 'we haven't sold that for 20 years love'. Shame.

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